At 7 am we sat into the bus. Of course, the trip to Chiang Rai was not 3 hours. Little bit more. But more dramatically was that from the half way the rain starts. The sky was cloudy and grey.
This was unexpected….
Winter months are the best all over Thailand.

After arriving first we ate soup and rise.
Then we get into the center,  trying to find Rent a Bike.

It was founded in 10 min.

Nice people gave us 3 normal scooters. 300 USD as deposit and we left in their office part of our luggage.

Distances on Chiang Rai were smaller then in Chiang Mai. Roads not SO curved and not SO hilly.
We go by the motorway to North.  The way was with really heavy traffic. We ride on special strip, but pollution around was bad and all time we were between the cars.
First stop in the Black Temple. Naan Dam. Its not really the Temple.

It is the territory, were Thai painter, designer and sculptor Thawan Duchnee lived. He was well educated person and finished universities not only  in Thailand  but in  Holland as well. Many pavilions, furnished in strange and extravagant style – using horns, shells, wood from the rivers and animal skins. Dozens of killed animas….

All his houses has the form of Thai temples. They decorated by curving plates. Their roofs, as  also roofs of real temples, has “Fire tails”. I gave to all this style name “Style of Fire Buddhism”. We made round by round ducking into each of this strange houses. And of course, we found street foot…. Small wantoons and grilled bananas added special charm to this place.

It was time to go ahead.

Till Mae Chin the road was like arrow. Not long way, but really unpleasant.

Then we turned left and picture changed. We were near the rise fields. It was time between harvests. Only water on the fields. And cloudy mountains around.

It was cold and I saw thermal spa sign. High white steam geyser was seen near the road. We get to onsen. There were numerous rooms with small mineral pools inside each. Not interesting at all. And a lot of people around.

It was 30 km to Mae Salong, village in the mountains, where we would like to overnight.

The road was wide and good. Then, after crossroad we get very fast up into the mountains. Visibility dropped to 5-6 m. Rain starts. Clouds and mist  were everywhere. Our speed, in this curving,  hilly mountains also dropped.
We passed near the turn to Mudhuts.
In 2 km something very strange appears – it was fairy pavilion on the slope, with gold and silver inside , China men  and numerous red lamps, slowly swinging on the wind. Rain stops.
It was tea pavilion with the best Thai and world tea oolong. And we were so lucky to observe peace of yellow evening sky from the terrace. With tiny cup of oolong. It was miracle. Of course, gold was only golden tea boxes and silver as well. But we were stunned.

It was rainy and wet. China men has no guest house and for our camping the weather was too bad.

We follow to the village. Again curving hilly roads. Few luxury resorts. And no people at all. Our first stop was in the center near the hotel  signs. Start from 60 USD. Strange. No tourists.
We moved to the next house. Again high price. And very small discount.
Then I entered into small hotel. Old women, may be the  leader of the Red Khmers, bold and toothless proposed room for 600 Batt.  20 USD. And any Batt less. But with huge hall for morning tea and motorbike parking. Yes. We drove inside the hotel. Here we stayed. Here we bought our first box of oolong tea.

I have no ideas which oolong is better. There are at least 15 different oolongs. May be more, I don’t know.
It’s need put into the cup just a little bit. After adding boiled water and waiting, smell of mountains will flow.

Old witch gave one flip flop per bike to put under the “leg”.

We were tired. No restaurant  near us. But women sat opposite the hotel and grilled rise pancakes with sugar. We ordered 3. They were wrapped into banana leaf. 30 batts.  Another woman told me that second year no more tourists. Hotels are empty. Climate changed. No money in the world.
Time to go sleep.

Morning was cloudy but without the rain. Cool! Before breakfast  we are going by motorbikes on the highest point of the village, where new stupa stands. The view is really breathtaking. To enter we need to take out shoes as usual.

Fast go dawn into the market. But here it’s nothing. Only few people sell something. One person sit with enormous opium pipe, but of course, its not opium. Old men fry pancakes. He do this so virtuously that I only can watch how pancakes one after one filled with bananas, condensed milk ext. I asked twice make us pancakes. Any movement in my side…. i waited hopelessly and in 15 min go away…. no pancakes for us….

So, we moved by inner roads to Mae Sai. Roads were brilliant, but hilly and curved. Sometimes it were so hilly, with such a graduate that i think that will fall on my back or something will happens with the breaks when i ride dawn.

By the way it was Royal Queen Garden.
But it was also Sabai Sabai day. It was Saturday. Police closed the road and  asked us to park our scooter. And proposed sit into minivan. I understand nothing. But another people do this.
We sat. Minivan get us may be 2 km to the road, leading into the gardens.
This road was full of different food.

During next hour we tried everything. Even dry caterpillar and ice-cream in bamboo glass. It was SO delicious!  And oolong tea. And chrysanthemum tea. And many other different  things.

Gardens were somewhere here. Hills, terraces, flowers. No. Next time.
We returned to minivans. They made round trip all time.

So, we again on the road and turned to the Burma border. Here is an old road, bumpy, with holes, just near the border. I think, in the rain its really dangerous.  We saw a lot of check points.  They asked where we are going.

 

After this beautiful road between mountain ridges , we arrived to Mae Sai. This is No Tax Zone.  Here, on the central road, with heavy traffic, we understand that don’t know what to do in this noisy city.

The road ended by big border point , bridge of Friendship and Burma on the other side of the river.
Slowly we approached to the bridge. No place for parking. Everywhere people, small shops. From café woman call us – park here…. i didn’t understand. But she waved her hand. We get into big open café near the river . One side of café was under the bridge. Someone through big pack from the bridge to boy in café. Smuggle. Next pack. Next.

We ride between tables. One part of café was Parkside for scooters…..
On the market it was possible to buy what you want. A lot of cheap electronics, toys, clothes, tea. We bought new moto jackets.

Police proposed us go to the bridge and to Burma. But we had only one enter vise into Thailand and decided not to cross the border. It was wise decision. After , we met men from Latvia who get into bridge. Then he was forced to pay  for new visa. And it was long procedure.

As for me, i don’t want to stay any more in Mae Sai.
We had 45 min before full darkness.
And we hurry to Golden Triangle.

The road was yellow color on the map and i hope it will be without traffic. But i mistake. It were three strips to each direction. There were a lot of cars.

With darkness we were in Golden Triangle and stop for a dinner in small restaurant near Ruak river . We saw very close piece of Burma. Far away were the lights of Laos. We ate soup with catfish and grilled catfish. Local.

In full darkness we entered Golden Triangle. It was empty. No people, no tourists. We tried to find hotel.

First one , near the river, was good.  Women proposed room for three of us.  1200 batt. We refused. And another women asked follow her car. We passed Golden Buddha. Women turned left. There was noname hotel. One long building and 3-4 rooms. Each 400 batt. No people at all. Three beds, hot water. Women proposed this because she like tourists. Thanks!

After hot shower we get to Mekong. Here was promenade, but all in chaos, abandoned, with old buildings and boats. Its seems to me, that may be 10 years before here starts big tourists project and then all suddenly stops.

 

Golden Buddha was closed till morning. The  streets were so empty that i cannot believe that its only 7pm! No cars also….
No place for take a tea or just to sit. No restaurants. No shops. Only buildings with closed windows and doors.
We returned to our guesthouse or don’t know what.

In the morning we made coffee and I took it to Mekong. 50 m.
Strange feeling. I had never been in Chernobyl, but i think river Pripyat looks like the same. Old dead boats. No people. And safety jackets on the seats. And MEKONG with its brown and fast water.

 

We pick up our luggage and get to Golden Buddha. First people , Thai, arrived. Entrance under big  statue of elephant. We get to Sacred Boat. Not only Buddha is here. Hindu goddess here as well. On the back , were its a view on Golden Triangle, its a special money collector – two long big tubes which leads to Laughing Buddha and his huge box. Need to through money and say what you want. Money roll in the tube and get into box.

View on Mekong was excellent. But it was time to eat now.
We follow near Mekong to Chiang Saen. Clean wide road. Without heavy traffic in the morning.
We stopped near local restaurant. Nobody speak English. No English menu. We show what we want and receive perfect soup with wantoons in 10 min. We ate and see long promenade and wide Mekong. And Laos.

Chiang Saen is the oldest city in Thailand. Here are numerous archeological sites anf oldest wall around . We ate pineapple near Mekong ( Mae Khong) and turned into city. Everywhere stupas, broken, sunk in the earth, destroyed. Small round and we are again on the perfect road near Mekong.

Next few hours we
- turned right on the big  hill and saw perfect temple, little bit lower – wooden curved temple

- ‎super temple complex near Mekong with golden-red buildings and numerous statues of golden monks

- ‎house of local painter with his sculptures of animals and slum houses for foreigners who like to smoke

- ‎and View restaurant with white sofas, perfect food and view on Mekong and Laos.

In each place we had been alone. Completely.

Then I changed our schedule and we decided to overnight in the mountains near the Burma. Phu Chi Fa.

Road was extremely beautiful.
Close to village we started ask  about lodging. Strange people. No tourists. But they shook the heads, saying  NO, NO, No….

We found small house before the main village. With view. And restaurant in 50 m. And women who make PANCAKES!!!

 

After dinner we slowly walked up. Strange place. Small kiosks with china cheap clothes, hats, leggins and ugly toys….  nothing more. And hotels. Also ugly. No strip for walking. In police station we found internet.

Morning was misty.
We start our descent. We need a time for White Temple.
In the slope one scooter loose the breaks… I saw how Sergiy did strange movements by legs. He like run. On scooter. And he overrun me . Then he rode to right side, then to left, then he escape in curve. Breaks!
We hurry. Turn, turn. No our friend.
He was very lucky.
This part of the road was less then 22 or 16%.  And he can somehow stops the scooter. Even not foll dawn.
He was alive!

During next hour I found durians. Big cart with durians. We bought one and asked to pill or do something. We want to try it. Durian is like a hedgehog. Seller put on big hard gloves and cut durian between its sections. Carefully. Inside were milky pieces.
‎We ate them in moment. Soft creamy something with light sugar sweet. Nothing unpleasant!
‎We asked to buy second one.
Each one 320 Batt.

Time to go.

By the way we found turn to cave. There was a field with big very China rocks. Cave was there. Small hole in the rock… Nothing….

And now White Temple!
It’s a lot of descriptions of this place. I was impressed. This white mysterious Fire Tempe!. Crossing the bridge I felt the Hell was near – hundreds of hands pray about mercy. White miracle.
Noting to see inside. As for me.

Evening we want to spent in thermal pool.

So, we get into mountains. Here was a spring.
It was miracle, that l saw old sign with spring picture. Locals laughed. They no nothing. Only because Ivan saw another very very small sign, we turn in right direction.
Traffic immediately escape. Rural quiet area.
Here we found bungalow with 4 small pools with hot water. We were the only guests. Restaurant has only rise. We ate it and durian.
Then get into hot spa.

Morning began from hot spa and breakfast , included in our price. 700 Batt for 3 persons. Including spa also.
And 50m behind bungalow was geyser with boiling water….

After such a perfect night we wanted again hot springs.
First we visited sacred city. And sacred Tempe Wat That Ton on the Kok river . For this time we had a lot of impressions. So, we looked for springs.

Malika terms we tried to find during 1,5 of hours…. No signs. People said – here. Then – there. We found it behind huge Buddha statue. Pond with boiling water. Clean. But hot.

 

We decided turn to Mae Salong to magic pavilion with tea.

It was perfect decision!.
Before pavilion was sign on Mudhouse. We turned once more. Bad clay road. Poor village.
And suddenly – luxury designer hotel in African Ethiopian style! We were stunned!
But the price was also stunned…. And tent was stunned….and place for each tent was 20 USD…
Girl manager was not friendly.

We found bird, who speaks)! It was big surprise for us! How funny it was! The bird which is common here can easily starts speaks!

We returned in the main road.
China pavilion was on the same place.
We put on tents. Free. Drunk super oolong.
Get to Mae Salong and ate in China restaurant. Quickly and testy.

It was great night. Last night in the mountains.

Morning was with rain.
We hurry to found terms. There was one spot 10 km from Chiang Rai.
By the way it was so cold that I think I will freeze….
It was really happiness to ate hot chilly meat, drank hot chocolate and jump into hot water!

Our last day.

Night bus to Bangkok.

And trip to Koh Tao.