Manaslu Circuit and Tsum Valley. Day by day. Nepal- october 2017
Дата 8 November 2017


Kathmandu – Arughat.

We are 4th time in Nepal and 4th time with  Since Tilak rescued us in the mountains, I know that in Nepal everything will be Ok  if we with travell him.

Firs day we took the coffee with the best view – in Tilaks new hotel Kathmandu Suite Home Hotel.
We were so lucky that Tilak put our huge dulpher bag and both of us into the jeep!. The road was long. At first – local awful traffic jams in Kathmandu, then road full of big tracks.

The road is very narrow. When we get to dirty road its starts like a game – who will be the first : we are or the local bus with opposite direction with dozens of people on the roof and from the windows . Dust was so thick that we see nothing. But we didn’t know yet, that we had been very very lucky! Other people, who get to Arughat by local bus, said us, that they never had been so scared. Bus passed near the endless cliffs just few sm off…. And they change at least two buses because its were broken. This travel was 7 hours for us and 12 to those who used local bus.

So, happily we arrived to Arughat. We have guide Mahindra and porter Subano.

In Arughat we need to get another car to Soti Bazar.  But no one want pick up us! Only after i said we will use local bus, jeep agreed pick up us.

I read that this part is awful for trekkers, but its not so bad. The road going through the villages. There are not  a lot of cars here.

And now we met our main river Budhi Gandaki. This is a monster, who will roar during next weeks into our ears all days long. And nights also.

Soti Khola(700)
We have lodge near the river. Its dirty, disgusting, with building area around and huge heaps of rubbish everywhere.

We received room with two small windows with  bars but without glass. Its look like prisons cell…. may be.

Here are a lot of foreigners. But they are not friendly. They do not say Hello to each other and even do not answer.

Shower and toilet are together. Any hook or something to put cloth. Dirty. Agley. Very hot. Humid. Water only cold.

I asked for boiled water. 1 usd per 1 liter. Its  a lot because we will need 4-6 liters per person per day.

Electricity is in the room.

All night Budhi Gandaki made strong sounds. There is no silence. Never.

Soti Khola (700) – Machha Khola (869).

So, first day. We are start our adventure.
Its nice in the morning. Humid. But will be very hot.
After, as i understand, more or less traditional breakfast, at 7-30 we started.

First, whom we saw, were caravans of donkeys. Here this animals work hard – they carry loads. Different – starting from supplies for  lodges construction and everything needs for locals and for tourists.

From 8 am the sun became so strong and hot that it was hardly possible do the trekking. The pass get through the jungle near the Budhi Gandaki. Its a narrow gorge  with vertical walls. Everywhere water. From the very top of the mountains. From our side and from opposite. Butterflies are huge and different colors. Birds with multicolor tails. And cicadas which try to be loudly then the river.

Better was not to stay in Soti Khola. Half of hour after we found beautiful lodge with river view. Its look like very friendly.

The pass go up and dawn and up. All time we met loaded donkeys. We need get them the road. But never stay near the edge of the trail! Donkey easily can push you out! And you obviously will die!

We entered Labubesi (884) but didn’t stop for lunch there.  Just few minutes after, Mahindra get us into Everest Lodge near the suspension bridge. This bridge is very busy – donkeys cross it all the time.

Here we met  first time dal bat – rise with carry, with spinach and lentil soup. And spices. Possible ask more and more till you cannot eat more.
And here i first time used tablets for disinfection of the water. First and may be last. Because water for drinking get through special pipes. Locals drink it and say that its safe. Mahindra said the same.
So, from the first day we started to drink taped water and had no problems with the stomach.

Our first day was hot and long. 7 hours of walking with the stops.

In Machhi -Khola there is a special place for tourists. Two hotel opposite each other.  Rooms are small and very basic. Just beds and one lamp. Shower as usual with squatted toilet. But with hot water. After such a challenge day it was excellent!

I asked second time roasted chicken. Here is, may be the last place on the planet, where chicken is real, natural. Its meat need to chewing. Its had test.

Everyone write something into logbooks about the trekking and read the same books….
We walked through the village to suspicious bridge. All village life is visible – person sit and haircutter do his business, two heels help each other find lives in long heirs, small half-naked boys play hide-and-seek.

Night come here quickly and early. Time to sleep.

Now we will met the same people all time. Here are Americans, two girls from Switzerland, couple from Germany. Another people.

Machha Khola – Dovan

(869 -  1080)

Our next long day.
My personal wake up at 5-30. Warm shower.
Breakfast. Ginger tea. Tibetan bread with honey, muesli with honey and apples. Tibetan bread is a big round bread from unknown grains. Barley?

7-30 time to go.

Gorge is narrow. We are very fast because we are in the shadow. Temperature is 19, but humidity awful. We are like after heavy rain.
Budgi Gandaki now is like a monster! She roar, whirl, boil. Huge butterflies. And cicadas which try to sing loudly then river.

Tatopani (990) means hot water. By the way i found two sources with hot spring calcium water. Not very hot, but not cold. May be in the mountains it is spring lake, but guide do not know.
Village Tatopani. Rest time. Coca Cola starts from 2 Usd for smallest bottle. Tea now 1 usd per small cup. I think that taped water is not bad. Really. Its can be even more warm.

After rest we cross the river. And step into the sunny hell.  Somehow we moved forward and up. And Dovan appears. Small village – touristic part and local dwelling.
It was so hot, that we decided not go farther. Its strange, but all people go ahead. In itinerary everyone has Dovan like a place for overnight.
Lunch. Everyone escape. We are only two, who stay here. The place is not the most beautiful. Here gorge is not so curving. We saw mountains. All around are donkeys. Before sundown two big group of people arrived – Americans and Norway’s.
We are no more alone.

Night was warm. Budhi Gandaki was not in silence.

Dovan – Philim

(1080 – 1570)

In the morning we run ahead. Temperature is 18, but humidity. And sun. But now we are in half shadow. We passed few villages. Houses looks like a slams. If they are little bit better then a slam they have sign Hotel….

In 2,5 hours we rich the place Yaruphant (1170).  Here the river made principal turn, its wide, may be 200 m, half dry. View from this village excellent! Small teahouses and restaurants turns to river. Why we didn’t sleep here??

Old road before passed through this wide area, crossing the river few times.  Now it is special metal construction, one side of which is screwed into the rock mountain. Jagat  (1340) is not far away. Gorge here have brilliant views both sides. Lush green, huge lizards.
We entered to Manaslu conservation area.

In Jagat our guide made check in .
In the village was first big chorten and small mani wall. And from here i starts understand that Buddhism dying. I remember that all previous times we passed chortens left side or clockwise. Now its not needed. Now its no difference. It was pity. Something important escape forever.

After Jagat we crossed the suspensions bridge. Two waterfalls roared dawn. We sat for lunch with Jagat view. Two hours and our dal bat was ready and eaten .

Then the trail became so beautiful! Right side was silver Budhi. Left –  endless mountain rocks. And all pass was covered by silver pieces of  mica.
Temperature raised up. It was more then 30. Hell. With fresh wind sometime.

Trail was all time from left side till the bridge before Philim. Last ascending was not so challenge as described in the book.
Actually, the only one book about Manaslu circuit has a lot of mistakes. The passes not exists or different now. Trail in many places restored. Time to get destination mostly incorrect.

In Philim we stayed with perfect view in very basic room. But we had electricity, hot shower and perfect menu list! It was Wifi sign, but, nothing.
Since the beginning of the trip we ate first time green salad with onion and mutton meat. Dishes were really delicious!
About the greens. A lot of patches of terrain are with green onion, tomatoes, cabbage, pumpkin ext. Apple trees are more or less common. In every menu list there is an apple pie.  We tried. Testy.
Before sunset we made small walk to the monastery. Its 30 min uphill through the millet field. Really beauty. People now collect corn and women took grains out.  Big village steeply running up. Girls helps each other catch the laces in the head.

Monastery is not abandon, but in bad condition. Walls need urgent repair. Inside are paintings on the walls. Main statues in front of. We get outside and sat near the flags. Silence.

At 6-20pm completely night. Time to sleep.

Philim – Chumling ( Tsum Valley).

(1570 – 2400)

Our start was at 7-10. In shadow. No sun yet.19 C. And humidity. Trail going up, up, up. Left side are completely vertical mountains. First white big mountains appears.

So we rich the point from where left side to Larkya  Pass and right – to  Tsum.

We are going to Tsum. May be all people are going to Tsum. Half of them till the end of the valley, to Mu Gompa. Some – with side trips to BC of Ganesh 4. And mostly they go after to Larkya Pass. Only few tourists after Tsum return to Arughat.
Tsum is like enigma in the books. I wait also for valley.

So, we turned into another gorge. First village is Lokpa (2240). This is overcrowded place where we took the lunch. I also asked chapatti with peanut batter. I put batter so thick that receive Napoleon tart at the end!

Few hours up-up and the valley appears. The gorge still narrow but then it has big Plato. This is Low Tsum. Chumling. We crossed long bridge. Again up.
We saw our lodging. O! This is the oldest building in the region….  Hotel under protection of Dalai Lama. It has perfect table with mountain view. It has smallest rooms i ever saw. And its really dirty.


Clouds came from the lower valleys. Its became cold. We asked for hot water. 2usd per cattle. In small stone building we put cattle, big bowl. Pipe with cold water was there. Shower was very refresh!

Book recommend try to find some chortens around and monastery. The way of chortens starts from the bridge, just100 m left . We follow the pass. Soon we found big camping area full of Norwegian tourists. First drops of rain fall. We run to our hotel. Norwegians run to their tents. In our hotel we ordered Swiss rosti with cheese and French fries. Heavy rain covered mountains. All views escaped. Nothing. Cold. First time i think that our lodging is not so bad.

Chumling- Chhokang Paro

(2400 – 3030)

At night I opened the door – no air inside the room.
Rain was during all night. Its stops before the sunrise.

We ate our Tibetan bread with honey, muesli with apple.

Every day we took the shower. Now its 3,5 usd pp. Even on 4500 in BC of Aconcagua it was 5 usd.

In every guest house.  Free. I paid only once when it was solar battery, in Dovan.

Really high. Every cup of tea is 1-1,5 usd. And shower. And hot water. We spent a lot of.

Between 18-35. Humidity is awful.

After breakfast we start our trek. All time left side. Little bit up, then more.  Because of the clouds we didn’t see Ganesh Gimal.
Its a harvest time now. So millet and barley are ready. Barley its a main grains – for tsampa.
Here are a lot of chortens and mani walls. But they are looks very abandoned. 45 min before the Chhokang Paro we saw white tent with beer and coke… and the, sun appears, switch on solar battery and loud western music fulfill the mountains. I fill that this is the end of mystic Tsum Valley.

We get into Chhokang Paro. Big village. We stay in old fashion guest house Teshi Derek. Our room is big, may be 8 sq m, with small table, window and view on mountains and apple tree. There are apples on the tree but too far from me.

For lunch we found small terrace with excellent view.  Clouds escape, so I made quick washing of our clothes. In vain as usual. Sun go away in 40 min. Everything wet. And Ivan’s T-shirt magically escape…..

It was big pleasure in the evening lay in the bad with the book. Evening was cooler then usual. Altitude.

Chhokang Paro – low Lokpa

(3030 – 2100)

It was cold at night! Nice!

Before breakfast we ascend to the slope. Here is  an old monastery which i wanted found. After 200m up we found it – abandoned building and closed gates.  Nothing. Buddhism here, if it still exists, hidden very deep.

We took our breakfast. Yak tried to enter Teshi Delek gates. We said good buy to German couple, Lisa and Mishel, who made more when one year adventure around the world.  They will go to Mu Gompa. Our way to Larkya Pass.

We stopped only to take a lunch on Chumling. Dal bat, of course. And dawn, dawn, dawn  to Lokpa(2240). But ups! Lokpa is overcrowded! No rooms! Big groups of Americans and Germans. This place is tiny, narrow, full of strange people with chine’s faces. They look at us not friendly.
Next 30 min dawn and we are in quiet place with 5 rooms, friendly owners. Everything is clean, we are with gorge view rooms. This place even have no locks, so tiny it is! We asked for apple pie and hot water. Shower time. Today was very long day.

In this place we met Barbara – German girl, who travel around the world alone. She is very communicable – she knows each person around Manaslu.

Evening was perfect, night warm.


Low Lokpe – Bihi Phedi.

(2100 – 2130)

We are out of civilization during the week. I don’t know which day is today.

After muesli with apples and Tibetan bread we start. We are descending till the trail fork. Now we turn directly to Larkya Pass.

I forgot towel, socks and T- shirt on the rope. So, its time to return as quickly as possible. I did it fast but now I am again wet. Its again hot!

We passed tiny villages. They are pretty nice and clean. We are not in hurry. Up-up. Zum-zum.

Butterflies again. I found strange flower. I cannot find it in any net description.

In few hours we are in Deng (1860). This is our place for overnight, but we will take lunch here. View is excellent. Dal bat – best during all time! I asked more and more!
And what is this? Wi-Fi…. unlimited…3usd. I asked. Yes. Possible. It works! But what the hell! Today is Sunday and its too early! All are sleep! Only my mom and friend pick up tubes.
Expedition presented satellite to Deng. Piece of civilization…..

Now the white peaks are visible. Deng full of flowers. Sky is deep blue color.

We crossed the bridge. Barley, millet. Gorge became wider and I saw may be in 5-6 km ahead. Its strange, because usually river is so curved, that mountain chaos do not give possibility look ahead even on 1 km.

Wind became strong and cold. And awful, hot, burning sun!

We get to Bihi Phedi. Two buildings – main with restaurant and opposite sleeping facilities.

Shower. Washing of closes. This is mistake. Its seems to me, that in this wind everything will dry in few minutes! Ha-ha! Even in the morning it all stuff was wet.

Night come. Sun battery switch of. TV switch on. I charged my photo and video camera.
Evening was cold.

In this place we met another couple from Germany.  Girl was ill and i gave her medicine. They also travel during last half year…. This world is so difficult for us…..

Bihi Phedi – Namrung.

(2130 – 2630)

It was warm night. Ivan has a sore throat.  I gave him tablets. Yesterday chilly wind!

Chapatti, honey, muesli, apple.
And go ahead. Zum- zum!

Clouds. No white peaks.

We are 400m above the mad river Budhi Gandaki. Gorge is very narrow. River is somewhere very far away. Boiling…. crazy…..

Today we met one caravan with donkeys.  And we are on very loose vertical slope. If… no chances. Donkeys first. I cannot understand how they can walk on this narrow, loose trail. One wrong movement and all will be finished. Small stones flied from the upper rocks. I waited. Then i run.

We took the lunch in fully reconstructed lodge. After earthquake 2015 there were build new bridges, the trail was repaired, lodges as will.

We crossed again Budhi Gandaki with natural stone bridge near. And entered into huge botanical garden. I don’t know which trees here. I think giant sequoias. They were so high! So huge! River jumped and roared.

Then stone stairs get us to Namrung.

First glimpse – gates into Four Season Hotel.

Then village and our lodge.

Namrung was overcrowded. In our lodge were hot water, perfect menu list, nice view. Its became colder and colder.

We visited local Buddhist monastery. Locked. But light inside. Ritual drum do not work….

We went on excursion to Four Season. Beautiful building and small museum ( like Old Village) inside. I asked about guests. Any. Electric covers, wifi, heaters. No guest. 50 usd room. Our was 7 usd…..

In the museum I found drying in the sun meat. But they are vegetarians! Or no? No. People in all this areas eat meat. Religion forbidden them kill domestic animals. So, they asked people from the lower villages to help them. Few days before, Tibetan starts tell, that “tomorrow my cow or yak will fall from the cliff….. would you like to share meat?”.  I tried meat. Testy….

Restaurant was full off people. Group of French came. Americans.

Manaslu is strange circuit.  10 days get into Larkya Pass. And then two days dawn. If something will be wrong, all the way  back…. long long way. Better to arrange donkey trip through pass. Expensive, but one day. Or 4-5 days back…..

It was again warm night for us.

Namrung – Shyala.

(2630 – 3500)

Morning. Breakfast. Crowds of people…..

We are starting today at 7-30.
Its not challenge. Very slow up up.

First village Lihi (2920) with big new monastery. I get inside. Young monks with clay tried to make stupas according to the pictures in big book. They speak English. I would like to join them but Ivan waiting outside.

Sho.  Kani gates. Protection from evils…. mani walls, long , with stones.

And then it happens ! Valley became wide and from the mountain i saw two horned monster! Manaslu! Giant in blue sky! We are so happy!

Lho (3180) ahead. Above Lho the hill with monastery. And Manaslu! Wind is chilly and strong. Sun is burning our bodies. Air became dry. We want drink all time. Tea preferable.

In Lho we sit for a dal bat launch. Slowly groups of people come and come. All faces are known for us. Manaslu sometime hidden its horn in clouds.

Ok. Time to go to monastery. Kani gates and long mani wall. Little bit up on the hill and we are in monastery. This district suffered from earthquake have. Monastery in Lho destroyed. And this one on the hill – half destroyed. We entered into main building.  Here we saw Manuel. Actually we didn’t know yet that he is Manuel. He was sitting in silence meditation.

Near the monastery young monk study something.

We crossed the territory and slowly moved forward.

I decided not to stay in Samagaun, but in Shyala. Altitude is the same -3500m. But Shyala is not overcrowded as Samagaon. And i also wanted visit the Pungyen Monastery. Its before Samagaon. Main monastery in this area.

As we get into Shyala its seems to me empty and abandoned. Of course, people lived here. I even found some souvenirs !

Our guest house was opposite the school. I think that this place has the best view  before Larkya Pass.

Just before us were Chulim Gimal, Manaslu, Larkya Peak , North Peak! We were very close to the monsters!

Its became cold and i run to take the shower!

Then i entered into the kitchen. First thing i saw was the rope with drying yak meat!
I asked how it can be? They are vegetarians! O! No…. This yak, you know, fall dawn from the high cliff…. hahaha! I know! So, i asked about some meat dishes.

This evening we ate spring rolls, apple pie and real meat broth! How testy it was….  I asked second portion.

We stayed in this guest house with German couple and Spanish men.

In the late afternoon cams clouds. No mountains more. Nothing. We need to blow and clouds go away. In the village usually exist one person who blow on the clouds….

Shyala – Samagaun

(3500 – 3550)

The night was for us warm, because we slept in our very very warm sleeping bags.

Early in the morning, I came to terrace And saw pink Manaslu! It was so close! And all mountains around!

I ran to the football field. Dark blue sky and pink mountains. Just few minutes and pink color melted.

I returned to room.

In half of hour we all together took the breakfast in one of the most beautiful places!

So, we are going to Pungyen. All together, with Germans and Spain.

In 30 min it was turn into the left. To monastery. And steeply up. Up, till we rich Plato, like altiplano in south America. This was some special place. Very green grass, tiny, with crystal clear water rivers. And all around mountains 7000 m and Manaslu. It was so beautiful place! Suddenly, in this silence, we hear roar – big avalanche dropped dawn.

We sat all together and drink tea, water, eat our chapatti, dome sweets, chocolates. It was very special moment, because it was so real in such place.

Monastery was just in 30 min ahead. We were nit in hurry. No one in the monastery. Only Manaslu in silence. I cannot understand from which mountain was 40 years before so awful avalanche which destroyed monastery and killed 13 persons.

On the top of the hill near monastery i saw prayers flags. And proposed climb there.  At first only Manuel was ready. But, we all together without any trail, with the help of hands, rich this flags. It was our personal victory! Our Small Manasly!

And Roerich view into the valley!

Really i don’t want descent to Samagaon. I expected that this place was last sacred and empty place in Manaslu Circuit.
But it was time to go.

Dawn, dawn to Samagaon. This is big village, main port to Manaslu. It has huge Kani gates, endless mani walk, helicopter spot and a lot of guest houses.

Locals love in one part of village, foreigners in another.

After arriving we hear may 5-7 times arriving of helicopter. Expedition hire it for some supply delivery.

Hot shower was cold and expensive. But  pasta with eggs and vegs was excellent!  In the evening became cold. We walked to the monastery.  It was closed. Old women tried to open for us the door, but she cannot.

We went to our tiny room.

Samagaon – Samdo.

(3550 – 3875)

In the morning i found ice on the table….. and pink horns of Manaslu!

Morning news tells us that there is no place for all in Samdo
So, our guide run ahead and we left to take our breakfast.

Manuel has another spare day for BC of Manaslu.
Germans – Sonia and Alex, decided go directly to Daramsala. Without night in Samdo. Si, our small group, so different, but so pleasant, not exist any more.  We had been together 2 days and we fill ourselves so comfortable! May be one day we will see them again!

The way to Samdo was very easy. Through the yellow- red low forest, with Manaslu behind us. In shadow was SO cold!!! Then the sun arrived and warms came into our bodies.

We crossed Budhi Gandaki, ascent little bit and appears in Samdo.
Right and ahead were Tibetan borders. Left was our way to Larkya Pass.

Our Mahindra booked for us a room. We took dal bat and decided to make a small walk to Tibetan border.

Slow slow we rich Larkya Basar and go ahead. Left was Lariya Pass. We were completely alone.  Behind, left side were snow cowered mountains. Ahead we saw multicolored dead mountains. Without any piece of grass or forest. Without any spot of snow.

After 3 hour walk we ascent on more then 500 m up. No persons around. Ivan has an idea that now chines soldiers will come and capture us….. so we turned around and returned to Samdo. This strange village was completely in Shadow now. And position of mountains around give me an idea that morning sun will come here very late……

This night in Samdo was hard.
At first, during our walk, sun was as hot as it can be in high mountains. Wind was strong and chilly. I became wet because of ascending and fill , how chilly wind blew into my neck. I understand only after hour of blowing that I need to protect my neck. Too late. In Samdo after returning i had sneezing and sore throat. I already start eat antibiotics. I know my coughing very well…

And only two hours after dinner i felt discomfort in my stomach.  Yes. It was not good. In 20 min I had everything – vomiting, diarrhea, fewer, temperature ext. I felt myself awful. Two hours later, completely exhausted, i drunk nifuroxasid and regidron.

In the morning i had only sneezing.

Samdo – Daramsala.

(3875 – 4500)
Tsampa with apples and Tibetan bread with honey. Testy.
Our porter has a knee problem.
We start out trek to the last lodging. There also not enough place for everyone. So, Mahindra ran ahead.

And we walk slow, making photo and eating chocolate.  In 3 hours we saw multicolor spots of tents and few buildings of Daramsala. From left side is the wall of huge white mountains.
The ascent was easy for us. 3,5 hours. In shadow is cold. Windy. On the sun its so hot!

Our overnight place is in tent. Its better then stay in room. Near water spot big group of blue sheeps…. they are so shy)

We are in the tent. Little rest. Then we go to the kitchen or restaurant to take a lunch. We are hungry.

Near us is an ukro-russian group. For us this is nonsense. We prefer stay aside.

After lunch we made small ascending on the endless hill. Just 400 m up, we conquest Mont Blank, tried to find yarsagumba and returned to the tent. We didn’t see the pass.  Only direction of our night trek.

At the evening  everyone ask each other about start time. Manaslu has bad behavior to blow strong wind during the midnight. So, everyone starts from 3-4 in the morning. Our time is 4am. And this ukro-russ group will start at 1-30. No comments.






Daramsala – Larkya Pass – Bimthang

(4500 – 5200 – 3590)

We slept very well from 8pm till 3am.
One hour is enough to collect all stuff, took breakfast and make first steps at 4-10am.

Cold. Dark. Ivan coughing. I have sneezing. Strong. My torch is not bright. This is because i lost my good torch and bought in Philim this chines trash.

Slow slow. I bought hot water. But its so cold that its became cold after one hour.

We are going near moraine. Then mountains appears. And big yellow tent with hot tea….

In few min ukri- russ group also appears…. They are so slow! They have such a lot of unprepared people!

We go pole pole. Mountains with first sun rays became orange. I pass near group. They tried to catch us. No. Slow slow and they melted.
German girl with empty eyes. Guide keep her.


When we crossed something like small lake, last short ascent and-  ulala!!!! We are on Larkya Pass!!! 3,5 hours! Not so difficult as i expected. Only altitude is challenge.
We are happy!
All people are happy!
Mahindra with our bag also happy!

Its cold and time to descent.
Larkya Pass is long , may be 200 m or more. Just flat area. Nothing special. But as we get to the descent point, picture of mountain wall appears! Glaciers, lakes, peaks, walls! Beauty! And steppe dawn. We are lucky – no snow, no ice.  But we need to descent 1600 m dawn! Its a lot!

Guide of Ukro-russ group run towards us. Where is his group? Nobody know….

We descent and all time had the picture of snowy mountains. So beautiful. In full silence.

Then on the altitude of Daramsala two tents and donkey appears. We took here tea. Time to get Bimthang.

After 8 hours from the start moment in Daramsala we get into the room with extremely beautiful view in Bimthang. From the window we observed Manaslu and from the open door we saw wall of 6000  and 7000 m mountains.

Lunch and dinner in this place was excellent! Prices for water, shower and tea big, as usual.

Last persons from russo-ukro grom came at night….

Evening was cold. Night colder. But again , not for us. We are in our superwarm north face sleeping bags.


Bimthang – Dharapani

(3590 – 1963)

I woke up at 5-30 and wait. Nothing. Then mountains became black and white.  We waited.
At 6-09 first pink ray lay on Manaslu. And at 6-11 mountains visible through the door received second pink ray! I saw contour of the wall. It was miracle!

Then we collect our luggage, took the breakfast.

First half of hour was cold and without sun. We crossed the Milky river, turn to say good bye for the White Country. Small ascent and in one step we are in subtropical forest with giant trees! Only one step!  Now dawn. Dawn next 1600m.

It was nice walk. Manaslu smile to us.

We walked and walked. Green was lush. From the midday its became really hot without chilly wind.

We stopped in the last village Goa to take a lunch. I asked for natural vegetable soup and momo with yak meat. And tea. Again tea with lemon and ginger.

But we had a problem with Subano. During last 4 days his problem with knee was so big that he cannot any more carry the luggage. So, our guide Mahindra was now our porter also. And Subano on the descent has such a strong pain that guide was forced to rent a donkey. This service is expensive on Manaslu circuit. Its even possible, if you have no more strength, hire donkey from Daramsala to Bimthang. But its 250 usd. Otherwise you can return to Arughat Bazaar. Only 5 days more….. And no any Lo.

Now all donkeys were busy. Mahindra found one but there were no person who can accompanied this donkey. Big expedition from Austria slowly ascend from Darapani. They hired all transport on the slopes. We met them. They had enormous amount of gear, gadgets ext. Real expedition.

Occasionally Mahindra found one donkey with hid owner. Subano was rescued!

So, we entered Dharapani. In this small village there are two interesting points
- this is last walking village of Manaslu trekking and first walking village to Annapurna circuit. Way dawn possible made by car
- ‎in Dharapany two main rivers mix together – Milky river and Masiandy. We have two cats – Milk and Mars ( Masiandy). Its fun for us!

We overnight in 3 sisters lodge. Nice dinner. Simple big room.

In the morning jeep came to take us dawn. This 35 km we ride during 5 hours! Awful stony road…..
Next 180 km till Kathmandu we made by car only for 8 hours.

Our trip was over.
I was happy!
And Ivan also!

We bought the map of Kanchenganga region….

And we will be of course with Tilak and his!