Small cities of Italy by car. Piero della Francesca (PdF) . May – 2017
Дата 14 May 2017


We are looking for PdF. Our next stop in Sansepolcro.

But Gubbio is first. I want to buy white truffles. And I want to ascent on the top of the mountain ( candle way). Truffles we bought without any problems, making day business for a small shop. With mountain was problem. Temperature falls to 7 C with chilly strong wind and rain. Top was covered with clouds. Chao, Gubbio!

Sansepolcro situated on flat land. No charming. Place of birth of PdF. We didn’t visit his marital house. Entrance for Museo Civico 11 Euro pp….. And Assumption is on restoration. No discount. But huge altar is in museum.

Museum is small. Assumption possible to observe but by parts – between the restoration constructions.

The real gem of museum is collection of ancient door locks and keys! It unreal!

There is another interesting thing in Sancepolcro. But on the moment of visit I didnt know this yet.

Perugio   was ruled by Bulioni family. Their house was not included into Rocca Paolina – papal castle, built naturally on the town streets and houses. People were gone to exile.

This Bulioni house was bought at the end of 19 century by family Caselli. Frederico Caselli was first artist who found new Technic for glass painting. He experimented pretty long with pigments, SiO2, fire, glass ext. Window glass no more unknown. Caselli put his name on every work.
All family worked a lot. Till today. Especially woman.

Family has also an interesting page in their history. In 1957 (?) An order from Los Angeles came. For the famous cemetery Forest Lawn . Forest Lawn had  numerous copies and original world best known sculptures. And they wanted Last Supper of Leonardo da Vinchi. In glass. For Honor Hall.

Two sisters  Caselli started their work.
During 5 years they did their best. Head of Giuda cracked 5 times… They asked for blessing. Head of Christ cracked 3 times – two works now in Moretti Caselli house and we saw them.

The work was finished. It was brilliant. It was unique.

After few years one Italian who lived in South Africa asked for another glassed Last Supper. Sisters refused. He insisted. Cartoons ( main paper drawings for this work) still exist and had been in Perugia. Sisters again start their hard work.

Then it was a gap in history. Nobody knows  what happens with second glass. Till one day, when the big boxes with glass where found in Sansepolcro! It was completely finished and never shipped Last Supper!
This masterpiece was successfully excavated from the boxes and introduced for public! Forever.
But we didnt know this story.
And we didnt see Last Supper in glass, which mentioned like one of the most real color copy of Leonardos frescoes!

Our next destination was Monterci with its House of one picture Madonna del Patro PdF.

2 km  before Monterchi I saw the brown sign to Citerna. Border Umbrian medieval city. Our car climb on the top. It was perfect castle. We get inside by foot and appeared in sleepy fairy small city with breathtaking view.

In small church was Andrea della Robia huge blue and white altar and Donatello wooden Virgin with the Child.

Lazy city slept. We wanted to eat something. It was only one open  restaurant Belvedere. But it was one of the best – one wall was glass with view on Umbria hills,  menu list full of delicious food.

It was warm and sunny when we again entered into the car. It was 3 km to Monterci and its Madonna del Parto. Monterci is Tuscany city. Its on the top of the mountain. Museum is little bit aside the old city. Special building for special paint. Special hall and light on the picture. We sat. Silence. Madonna here is pregnant.  Medieval closes usually make all women little bit pregnant. But this is another case. Madonna of Parturition – complete iconical depiction.
PdF finished this frescoes at seven days! Two angels were made from the same perforated cartoons. So, they are siblings)

It was time to go to Arezzo.

By the way we visited Santa Maria Della Grazia – very old church with amazing garden and amazing ceramic altar made by bottega of Andrea del Robia. The place is quiet. Giant pines surround territory.


Impossible beauty….