To Iran, we were not as all normal people – we drove from the Turkish Van Lake by train.

Train late to departure. In the coach we sat in the 11-30 night, under the fine drizzling rain. The train puffed. It organized dozens of Iranian shuttles loaded with huge trunks. And we are with our skis and ski bags frantically running around the platform in search of the coach number 1. Numbering was absent, as with the head and the tail of the train. The situation was aggravated by lack of knowledge of farsi and turkish languages.

Finally, we climbed into the first coach  and had been kindly sent on. I endured a long and piercing glance of my husband, hung with our modest equipment. We slowly moved  coach to coach. Ambient looked at us with evident astonishment. The numbering of the seats are also absent.

A man suddenly pointed to the door  of compartment . Not believing our good fortune, we had fallen inside. We have watched with horror two Europeans. Yes, exactly! In this train, we had four! And all in the same compartment!

Europeans were Bulgarian, speaking in Russian, and Dutch, travel by trains hitchhiking through Turkey-Iran-Pakistan-India-Nepal-Tibet-China-Russia-back in Holland. Their journey has been calculated for six months. How did it occur!

The first was a Turkish passport control. In the 1  a.m. at night we all landed on a deserted railway halt. No items. The train was closed. We were in a movie. From steam trains to fell, flashing shadows. Hour and a half or two we were all sitting in a special room and receive a stamp on the departure. Then booted into the train. Memory can change the details of this complicated night. . I remember the appearance of Iranian border guards in 3 a.m. at nights. We silently gave them our passports and collapsed on the shelves. At 6 a.m. again awakened – someone gave us back our papers. At 7a.m., we stopped for customs control. Watch our unfortunate belongings nobody wanted and we collapsed into the abyss of sleep. Sometimes we wake up, something to eat, even a couple of times out of the coach. . The coach, incidentally, was surprisingly clean, the toilet is not short on soap and toilet paper and did not even smell! At one of the halts I knocked on the spot of Iranian  lovingly sweeping cigarette butts and tiny pieces of paper. Station morning sparkled with cleanliness.

With a delay of 5 hours we arrived in Tehran. It was a dark night. We are dying to sleep.

And now about Vaclav Gorodetskogo.

In Kiev, the man knows absolutely every aborigine. House with Chimeras – business card of Gorodetsky (lived in Kiev). But only few people remember what Gorodetsky did for the city, in particular Podil, help them to receive their own sewage system.

Gorodetsky built in Kiev Karimsky kenassa (House of the actor), the Ukrainian Museum (the museum with lions) and the Catholic cathedral on Chervonoarmiiska street.  His numerous big and small masterpieces are scattered all over Ukraine. Extravagant architect was an avid hunter and motorists.

And here he was drawn to the architectural exoticism. Or rather – in the exotic architecture.

At the beginning of last century, the Shah of Iran Reza Pahlavi, invited Gorodetsky to build a train station in Tehran. The building was nice and Rezapasha wanted to see his palace in the performance  of Gorodetsky. And this idea failed. And then the architect offered to build a mosque. Gorodetsky was ready to do so.  But, squinted his sudden illness and died in exile, has not built his latest masterpiece.

Gorodetsky died in 1930 and was buried in Tehran.

So, we left the station in Tehran. The station, built by our Gorodetsky.

At night bright building with big white columns,  was beautifully illuminated. It was strange to see him at the front  a huge portrait of  Imam. If I showed the station and asked where his whereabouts, I would probably first listed all the cities of Europe and the post-Soviet space, then America – North and South, and then would have surrendered. The last thing I expected to see this in Ancient Persia and modern Tehran!

Then we had a long drive threw the  not sleeping town to the hotel and long time explain that we had two months ago  paid for  our room threw the touristic agency (no reservation, no payment, nice service!) And then died in bed.

In the morning I again wound on the head scarf and we went to call a taxi. Immediately it became clear that the taxi driver is better to speak clearly address where to go, and even better – just in farsi and write …. The woman at the Reception (SPEAK english!) undertook to help solve this terrible problem.

I have really big plans! Very soon we understand, that we cannot find the cemetery Dolab address (as stated on the Internet, there was buried  Gorodetsky). Nobody knew this place. The taxi driver, too. One young man was something to remember. Then he politely asked, and why we do this??. We briefly explain – care about our countryman … But he was already dead! – With genuine surprise, exclaimed the man. From attempts were in time to leave.

In general, Tehran large, modern city, surrounded by snow-white mountains, with catastrophic movement and impossible width avenues, with the women behind the wheel and somewhere hurrying people. Part of the plans almost immediately had to cancel. But what remained was enough.

MUSEUM OF GLASS

In a beautiful mansion, formerly owned by the Egyptian Embassy, is an amazing collection of glass. Typically, the Museums of Fine ceramic and glass products presented  so that boredom turns jaw.  Also, usually on the dusty shelfs exposed fragments and bad fragments obscure masterpieces with meaningful long explanations. Terrible, horrible boredom.

BUT NOT IN TEHRAN!

Small, neat house, with beautiful stucco decor gray and white tones is located in a cozy private park. Thirty years ago, its two floors were decorated by Austrian designer Hans Holand (?) Decorated  with impossible beauty futuristic Hi-Tech bulbs and cubes, each of whom signed a masterpiece of Iranian art. . There are a bulbs hanging from the pitchers, some strange design with niches. Even the ventilation grilles and outputs climate control are sustained in strict accordance with the selected style! All this wonderfully harmonizes and creates a unique atmosphere of the holiday! And of course, the miracle staircase leading to the second floor, a beautiful ring go up.

13 ABAN MUSEUM

Amazing, a tiny museum in the center of Tehran. Modern Iranian sculptor Seyed Ali Akbar-e Sanati, as our Glazunov. Only in the sculpture. The monumental sculptural «paintings» have filled the former stables of the Shah. What was  in  author^s head, known only to God, but Jesus on the cross next to a group of Iranians, he also introduced. . In the corner we found  cowering boys, great horsemen, and a portrait of Victor Hugo. All together absolutely no strain, and even slightly bracing!

MUSEUM  OF  JEWELRY   IN  IRAN

Works extremely rare and few.

And rightly so.

With so many gems and products from them, their value begins to decline sharply. In my eyes, for example. What are these diamonds if they are just piled in a heap on the shelf? From necklaces simpler – if you hang on the neck lot of diamonds, each the size of an  egg, then who will you believe that all this real?! Well,  the Shahs arms, sprinkled, as if get covered in emeralds and diamonds? The famous Globe (55000gems, gold, 1m diameter, etc.)  was made from the most badly preserved gems . Lord, unmarketable clearly exceeds the cost of a 10-year budget of Ukraine! And how good a neat, spiral belted turquoise narghile! How you can access it, so this egg-shaped, it is not clear, but beautiful! At one of the shelves discreetly hidden largest pink diamond Sea of Light. About the crown, brooches, jugs for washing hands, thrones and decorations for hats just keep silent. I also understand why with the British are now very cool relations – the famous Koh-i-Nor was once an Iranian, but to England it is only who officially gone ….)) The British obviously sorry …. ))

We have looked also «famous» painting  on the wall of  the former American Embassy. Graffiti. As for me – nothing special. Everything else from my  list was closed on that day. Lunch at a local cafe cost about $ 7.

In the evening at the hotel after a long investigation in Internet, I found two cemeteries DOLAT – North and South . Both – the first half of last century, the agonizing search through local assistants had led to a long-awaited address in  farsy! But it was too late –  in the morning we had an early flight to Isfahan.

ISFAHAN.

Certainly, Iran is  a Muslim country, but not  too much.

In the morning there is not always possible to hear the muezzin. In the hospitals and on Fridays it at all politely asked to be quiet – the Iranians around sleeping or  tired or  just sick people.

The Iranians, though Muslims, but they are not Arabs. They are Persians. And this is a very big difference. And they say they are not speak Arabic, they speak farsy. Thus –

First: Iranians are hardworking

Second: cleanly

Third: no one sees them sitting in a cafe round the clock on the streets

Fourthly: all four-eyes are  stylish and  have beautiful glasses))

In general, they smile, do not bother on the street (only very serious and burning issues for them), always ready to help and generally very nice people. Gasoline in this country exactly 10 cents,  a lot of  cars, airplanes flight in huge quantities by our standards at no charge. To be true, the airplanes are all very, very old. Well, all right.

Our Traditiona Esfahan Hotel is located 10 minutes from the central square. Quite the opposite side from the other hotels. And even very good. We also had a street bazaar. Like everybody. On our street in the morning began to softly hum machines for weaving socks, in the tiny shops synchronously embroidered Dolce Gabanna. End, running from bakers carts and rushed some people all the time on the street 2 meter width of trying to pass  3 cars and three motorcycles. The hotel located in a historic building, most likely a caravanserai. In the center – open a small square with a small fountain. And the high sofas on the sides. Very nice.

Upon the arrival we immediately went into a long walk,  recommended by the guidebook as Half of the World. We wandered vestibule markets have not yet lost. The boys gladly sent us in the right direction. An elderly man politely asked to look into his yard and showed how stuffed Esfahan tablecloths – the traditional crafts of the local region.

The mosque was closed and we went to the poultry market. Near noisy square there were many cells. In the cells inhabited  all imaginable and unimaginable birds, which can be eaten. As well as squirrels and rabbits. Rabbits – understandable, but with squirrels , not all is clear …. In the square all aching and pounding. Work just boiled – laid underground and road. Such a  road-repair I hadn’t seen for a long time. Even felt a little envious. Lucky isfahans with their head of city! …. In a tiny cafe, enjoying the noise of machines and the type of piles being driven, we tasted melting lamb with roasted tomatoes. Just for $ 7. Well, nice nobody see us.

Around the mosque were selling sweets, mirrors, chandeliers, carpets and underpants. We were the only tourists. But no one  molested to us. The owner of a carpet store politely called  to take a cup of tea. We looked inside. Carpets were really beautiful, but we are absolutely not interested in them.

Jameh mosque was huge. With four sides of the inner square rose vast Quince with minarets. Ivan artfully decorated with blue tiles with floral ornaments and Kufic inscriptions – surahs from the Quran. From the vaults  descended down mukarny – finding and a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. In the center of the square rose the small square building. . In this case, it served as the sacred Kaaba stone, set there for a rehearsal Hajj. We were allowed to see the old rooms for prayers and a winter room with marble windows. Rooms – large halls with columns, Hypostyle rooms with round brick arches. The narrow brick plinfa so intricately laid, that  itself creates a nice geometric ornament.

Moving in the direction of the famous Imam square, we looked back in Ali mosque with the tallest minaret and mausoleum Harum Vilayet. The mausoleum has  in the inner room painted h frescoes  with real human faces! ! From a distance  it looked like large miniature, well, and inside us as infidels, of course not allowed.

Towards evening, our legs were slowly disappear.

The guidebook was a sign of exquisite magic cup and we rushed to seek a cafe. Very quickly we found it. We went in the basement, just littered  by pitchers, teapots, lamps, musical instruments. Everywhere people were sitting, drinking tea and smoking nargile. With tea, incidentally, always serving something tasty. We were waved. We quickly realized – with women and animals – in another room. Well and good. The day before  I was  shaken  by the local operator – WHO IS IVAN? With whom you will live in hotel? And all this is marked URGENT. I said, this is my cat, I always ride with him. That is, my husband and we have 2 children. The tea was excellent. Narghile too. With a wooden nozzle without the check valve and very quickly. Kiev theory of what should be the «correct nargile», just died.

On the way to the hotel we stayed in the shop  of local miniaturist. Spirited grandfather (15 pupils) for 2 minutes with a brush from the cats tail and paint from the ashes of fish bones sketched portrait  of  Saadi, so we bought small picture.

In the morning we found at the hotel two Chinese!

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART.

The Museum of Modern Art was struck sad extract from the Western worth painting, somehow mistakenly adopted by the Iranians as  modern paintings

SHEHEL SOLTUN PALACE

Palace (17 th century) in a huge park. Real treasure! Moreover, that entry into it through a huge terrace with 10metrs thin graceful columns resting on lions, so it is inside all painted from floor to ceiling like the Sistine Chapel (I am tempted to compare!). Wall painting looks like an enlarged miniature. Entire great songs of battle, secular life, receiving ambassadors, the Sultan and the rest are small, separately taken scenes from the life of 2-3persons. And it all surprisingly bright and well preserved. At the entrance to the palace, I bought funny cards – Isfahan in the snow. True, the snow here the last time was 5 years ago. And it was not long.

MUSEUM  OF  DECORATIVE  ARTS

is very small, in the old mansion. The collection is chosen with great love and with taste. I first saw the picture- icon (?), depicting the Prophet and the two angels above his head.

MOSQUE IMAM.

Well, its just – very nice. In a large pond in the middle of the mosque reflects quince, under the dome, near the mihrab,  you can stay in  the center and clap  hands – multiple echo clap in response. I listened as the guide said that 8 times for  a conventional echo reflections, and because double dome, the reflection  are 16. I have a bear standing on my ears – I have heard only 5.

PUMPED  MINARETS.

Odd phenomenon, explainable only with great difficulty. Actually, quite inexplicable.

Every hour, on Manar Jomban (17 century) ascent a person. Manar Jomban – as though detached quince,  so,  such huge eastern gate, decorated on top with two small,  5 meters in height,  minarets. Man put himself inside the minaret, and starts  to swing it  with power from side to side. And its all very even see! At the minaret there are  a lot of bells and they begin to ring loudly. Then starts to swing second one, as if to himself,  And it, too, rattling bells. Effect lasts for 3 minutes and repeated every hour. Sometimes, when  decided that the minaret will soon fall, it stop to shake it. The minaret is in the same place and the action resumes. And so for several centuries. From the engineering point of view, the problem still not solved. Listed  unconvincing explanations.

Even in Isfahan is an interesting place – the Armenian Quarter. That’s where you can drink a cup of coffee and not even one! We came to take the  look at the main Cathedral of Vank (17th century). Handsome brick fence on the perimeter, paving slabs, soft brown shades – all are reminiscent of some reason to Italy. Inside the territory, is actually a cathedral, with magnificent murals  of Appokalipsis. Ironically, the bottom wall  surrounded by Islamic blue tiles with ornate floral pattern! The place is very beautiful!

On the territory there is a small museum. . Part of his exposition have documents on the Armenian genocide – the terrible, horrible pictures, books, and an excerpt from the order of Ataturk, to destroy all the Armenians all available means, not leaving  anyone ….

And there is also the ancient documents, scrolls with the seals, the granting to the Armenian people  land  by  Sultan, the right to free trade and various other benefits,  to our history … unknown.

Theoretically, you can still make a nice walk past the old bridges of Isfahan. Each of the 11 has its own history. One need only remember that the distance in one direction past all the bridges would be hardly less than 8 km. Along the river stretch endless parks. The parks have already begun to blossom fruit trees and buzzing bees. Isfahan spring has come.

The road to Shiraz in the car long, about 500km, but not very tedious. Cars on the road quite a lot. Strips are laid with the separation zone in the middle 200 meters in width. Refills are not many. Petrol is very cheap – 10 cents, but there is a small queue.

After few hours we arrived in Pasargadae. The rain started. Strong cold. We walked around the tomb of Cyrus. Simply majestic and beautiful. Once upon a time there was a huge city (550 to NE) and its ruler was afraid the whole world. Now we are alone and we are very cold. Then we drove to the ancient city – everywhere the ruins.

Next was a monument on the road with a very complex called Naqsh-e Rostam. Nothing foreshadowed masterpiece. He appeared quite suddenly! A huge mountain carved with her cross-shaped tombs of the great Persian kings – Darius 1, Darius 2, Xerxes and Artaxerxes. A bottom housed massive (3 x 6m) reliefs. Established – 2000 to BC – 300 BC. On the reliefs  horses, kings, battles, boards. And all this – in glorious sound. Not a soul anywhere. We are completely alone in this beauty!

Finally we arrived and the famous Persepolis (500-400 up to BC).

Large spacious valley surrounded by mountains. Near the mountain is a palace complex. And according to legend, Darius built it all, just here to celebrate the New Year! People disappear from these places as suddenly as it came. Beautiful legend, who knows ….

But today, at this point, despite the furious efforts of British, German and French national museums to decorate themselves, survived many.

After  the grand staircase  we got into the arms of huge winged horses. They seemed to have left  from the pages of history book! Then arrived  the terrible bird of prey with the beak – prototypes of chimeras. On the territory of Persepolis in glass houses lovingly preserved huge stone horses. From the palaces remain, as always, unbeatable columns, door openings and numerous stone exterior low wall with reliefs. With  the columns all clear – tall and slender.  With the gap a bit more complicated – each must have relief. Several times  -  fight the king and the unknown animal – a bird-horse. But the wall with reliefs just delightful – the endless delegations of subjugated peoples  to the Great King Darius. In the center necessarily expressive scene – a huge lion with big bulging eyes, eat the  bull. And the stone trees. By evening, a lot of locals arrived. Again, go light rain and we went to Shiraz.

The next day, in the pouring rain, hoping that a miracle happened, we rushed to the city Bishapur. There, in the mountains at high altitude, there is a cave.  In the cave  there is a huge 7m high statue of King Shapur. Especially intrigued that there is  no photos of this place. Alas … The miracle did not happen. Rain poured down in buckets and the locals did not want to lead us into the mountains. Well. We walked around the ancient city, saw the rock reliefs and returned to Shiraz.

TEHRAN.

In Tehran, we returned early in the morning, a miracle by changing a ticket for an earlier flight. Airplanes flight around the country frequently, prices are low and, therefore,  free places are  difficult to find.

Straight from the airport we went to search cemetery Dolat. Address gave us people in the hotel. But no. After 40minutes searching, we found a Polish military cemetery.  Key and permission had to be taken, correctly, in the British Embassy.

Today, the Iranian-British relations have one  funny (or rather, one of) nuance. The  old maps of the British sailors had such a name, as the Arab Gulf. We all know it as the Persian Gulf. . And now suddenly became a question of changing place names and this question, of course, raised the British! So far the East has been disputed on the subject

Mr. Gorodetsky  cannot rest at the military cemetery.

Being nearby, we went to see the latest masterpiece – the palace Reza Pahlavi Saadabad. In any case, such information was available from many sources. And again – a complete failure. The palace complex of the 18 (!) buildings sprawled on the territory of more than 110 ha! We went to inspect two of the most famous pavilion – White and Green. Theoretically, the White Palace could be created  by Gorodetsky. He presented himself as a classical Palladian building. Inside the palace of pleasure distinguished from similar buildings of its convenient location large rooms and high ceilings. The sign below read that the palace was built in 1931 by architect Boris … name was not stated.

Green Palace was much more luxurious, both outside and inside. But can we live in a mirror-Crushed room with low sellings? As we have suggested, the author was of oriental origin.

To read the signs near all the palaces we  hadn’t time..There was still a faint hope to buy a book about Saadabad.  There no book  in only small kiosk.

Our guide, a taxi driver was a real find – he knew the second, South cemetery Dolat! An hour later we pulled into a long brick wall. At the closed gates were written in Russian letters RUSSIAN CEMETERY. Very interesting, but we are not there.

Near  gates were closed, but there hung a sign Catholic Cemetery. An attendant opened the gate and politely explained the year of death and immediately pointed to the large stone in the depths of the cemetery. Yes, indeed. We found the last abode of the indefatigable architect and traveler, the first Kyiv motorist and hunter Vladislav Gorodetsky.  In Tehran, he built a large railway station, the palace and prepared for the construction of a mosque. But, suddenly fell ill and died.

On the grave we found a modest sign – From the Ukrainian Ambassador in Tehran, from the Polish ambassador in Tehran, and from Jaroslav Gorodetsky, to  75-year anniversary of the death,  2005.

Our trip came to an end. The next day we flew out of this very strange and beautiful country.