CHADAR TREK – 2009

CHADAR TREK or across the Frozen river.

Diary of travel with slight deviations.

Zanskar River – a complex, turbulent river, which flows in the province of Ladakh Jammu and Kashmir. Adjacent to this river villages does not always have direct access to roads leading to the cities. In the summer, because the river is very boisterous, sometimes people need to overcome dozens of kilometers across the high, inhospitable mountains. The heights of the passes reach 6000m. In winter the river is frozen for 2 months. This enables local residents rather quickly (3-4 days) to reach the village Chilim, where  there can get to Leh (Ladakh is a main city). Well,  Leh in these part is like  Paris. Thus, in the winter students  prepare for their study  in summer or those, who wish to fly to Delhi or elsewhere need to do this much earlier.. Shopping is also better and faster to make winter in Leh,  when the river is frozen.

For several years, there is a route Chadar trek for those who wish to pass way of  local residents. Well, as for foreigners it might be a simple path for 1 day, 3, to the nearest village. We had the longest road – where we reach. The fact is that in fact, no guide will never tell where is the end of  destination. The distanse measured  only in hours . It can be a suddenly snow and fall asleep river. And you can not go anywhere. They can start an avalanche. And if the sun will too strong, the river can be simply impassable.

So

23.01.2009. The first day of travel.

Early in the morning we went to the festival in the monastery Spitok. The day was sunny and frosty. People flock from miles around, from nearby villages. Near the monastery sell something edible, you can drink hot tea from a thermos. We are four, plus one Australian and one French.

Rise to the monastery. There a lots of  people. All the time new people come. Women  dressed  nice- in a burgundy homespun coats and richly decorated. Many of them with  children. Children are often tied to the back.

Rise to the monastery. The monks asked to donate and gave us checks.

Monastery  is multilevel. On site plastic tubing, ring Karatal (copper plate). Actors wearing masks whirl on the court. Shaman danced. Echoes of the Bon religion.

We are sitting on the roof and watch presentation about an hour. Then he went down. We are waiting for the bus. And  it  full with  our porters, cooks and guide. Simply have nowhere to sit. Even one  Japanese. Perhaps the cook.

We go to Zanskar. The road is very beautiful. Altitude is high. Bus barely drags. In the mountains roam wild goats. Porters show  them all the time – we ourselves can not find anything.

Suddenly, our porters began to scream wildly and point somewhere. I do not see it! They argue that there is something like a leopard .. )) Then it turned out that the snow leopard, none of them had never seen

We passed the last village Chilim. Little more. The bus stops. This is our river.

Made  camp on the road. Padme, our guide, said that the night will be cold. We have a wonderful self-inflating mats. Tents – so-so.

Japanese woman was a tourist veteran, took 2x porters and left along the river up. As we have explained, it is not the first time for her. She studies  ladah language. Will write, probably a thesis. In these parts it is interesting to do  research  - monumental works on Ladakh does not exist.

At 6 p.m. – completely dark. And terribly cold. Probably down to minus 25 C with a breeze.

For lunch is a special tent. In this tent, cooks prepare to eat. Then they will sleep there. Dinner is cooked on the burners a special design. All the time it stinks gas. But inside is warmer than outside. Tasty. Packet soup  with the smell of carrot soup and rice with curry. Victor turn aside his  nose. He does not like curry. And dessert. Cup  of compote.

On the street terribly cold.

Before going to bed took up hot water bottles. We put them on the legs in a sleeping bag. In a sleeping bag all – batteries, cameras.

24.01.2009 The second day of travel.

The night was terrible. Bottom in the back pulled the rug cemetery. We have since offered to take great mattresses! And why do we not agree? Now we have, on the advice of Victor put  under the rug all that we have – bags, backpacks, things. Otherwise freeze. But even so late – I have a sore throat.

At 7 am Padme wished us good morning and brought into the tent hot tea. Wonderful! Water in a sleeping bag have a room temperature. We wash faces. The hands froze to the entire iron …

Our porters 20 minutes divided luggage.

At 9 am finally stepped onto the ice. Frozen river. Mountains close fit. Day  is cloudy. Quickly moving up  the river. Almost without interruption and breaks. Porters have been demonstrating somewhere nearby.

Sometimes in river large floodplain. The water runs fast, with the noise. Water is crystal clear as glass. In the river a lot of slush (ice). They whirled and swim under the ice. Beautifully.

We often go on the edge of the ice near the running stream. Terribly. But, its seems , ice is thick.

We had to make a complicated path in  the mountain – the river too close to the shore. Trail is thin, slippery. Terribly. And porters hauling those huge bales. In the snow they pull bales and if like these – on the shoulders like a backpack.

There are many locas on the  trail. Children. Probably going to school. Caught up with Japanese. Now she and her porters are going with us.

We met the Indians. They have  6th day  of  the track. They are  clean. Satisfied. Already returned.

Places are very  wild. Rocks  are cold, vast. On the rocks run wild goats.

In 12 lunch. Chefs drew water from a river. Boiled water for tea and cooked packet soup. In frost –  it is …uuu delicious!

After lunch – 2 other mountain trecks. Heavy and slow. Water boils at the bottom, rocky and narrow passageways. For porters  all is very difficult.

At the point of camping came to 15-30. Kitchen was already placed (nice). Our tents are set for another hour.  During this time we completely  frozen. Nested  for another hour.

Today we ate our last peace of meat…

Padme, our guide,  has 7 brothers and sisters. He lives in the valley of Zanskar with his parents and wife. Wife were arranging a match and the selected  by parents. She comes from a neighboring village. In winter, do nothing. In summer a lot of work – crops, fuel, cattle, etc. No money. Yes, they do not really need – to buy nothing, no shops. The school is very bad, so parents gave their children   to Leh or  in a monastery. They somehow teach, dress, feed. Heavily diseased in Leh can deliver  by  helicopter. Only need to run to where there is a phone connection. And it may take up to 20 – 30 km. The dead are burned, then buried. As Hindus.

Our porters sleep without tents! Just on the mat in a simple sleeping bag. In the  same clothes,  I am  in a feather jacket  and I am cold!

25.01.2009. The third day of travel.

At night was not so cold. Even hot  in the sleeping bag. Thundered  of the stones were coming down somewhere near  and few  avalanches.

Morning pick up our staff too long.

At breakfast oatmeal with honey and tea. Ok! And in the morning tea in bed!

Start to 9-20. Today, barely moving – go short. Stay for long time for afternoon  tea. A lot of water with beautiful icicles. We met a group of Englishmen – they could not go far – all covered with snow. They turned back. We are very strong!

Gone are the narrow canyon. Beautifully.

Frozen waterfall. Goats are jumping on the slopes.

The river, flowing from the rock. According to legend, the lake  situated near Mount Kailas.

Lunch was served as a  masterpiece of local production – a huge batch of soup, noodles and canned tuna. Strange, but eatable. Victor turn away his nose.

Cloudy. It is snowing. When you go – well, not cold. If sit down for a few minutes – a cold bitch.

In the evening  we came to a huge cave in the rock – a place of our overnight. We put the tent.

Victor arranged attraction – ran to rub himself with snow – all the porters gathered to watch!

Dinner pleased  with canned chicken with rice. Mmmmmm!

I have a very sore throat. Ivan strongly back hurts.

26.01.2009. The fourth day of travel.

In the morning woke up a little earlier and began to gather.

Start at  9-20.

A sunny day. Lots of snow.

Stay for lunch. Drank tea. And here all started! Steel avalanches, with a roar from all sides!. We became photograph, film.

Then   met a Poland with mad eyes – 5 months spent in Ladakh, and is now heading home. Well, he and his eyes!

Occurring in a Large Water-over the frozen river again flowed a river. Water almost to  knees. But we are ready – have OZK – shoe covers chemical protection in a backpack. Porters have  rubber boots. But not all.  Water flows through the boots inside. And it is  15 below zero! Our little Australy climbed Padme in the neck and  was carrying 300 meters. Then he transferred the Frenchwoman. Well – this is only our guide is such kind person. Others (in the evening, we have a speak with another people),  pass  as they can.

Then there was another little adventure. At one point the water directly in front of us began to fill trek! Ivan passed, I began to pass and failed with one foot on his knee, Sergei wore shoe covers. Guide hoisted Frenchwoman at neck, took a step and fell with her waist in water. Crawled out somehow, and pressed clothes. A trek to this point completely drenched with water – this is somewhere in a big avalanche came down and splashed water

Gone are the narrow canyon with huge rocks. Water – as a mirror. Ices runs. Next – the entrance to the valley of Zanskar. Hanging Buddhist flags. We have some feathers gone to such a greeting from zanskarpeople.

Ahead is the village Nerak. Actually the village itself at 400m above. But the houses at the bottom and sticking. Houses made of stone. Somehow modeled. If they are buried inside – only in black. Eyes just died! We were offered to sleep in this house – better to freeze and die in a tent!

Around a lot of different people – a Japanese girl, 3 French, 3 Italians, Swiss (already shaking his head as a local, do not understand *yes* or *no*). Swiss studying medicine. Lives in Ladakh for six months. He is half-dressed. He said that this year no one will take us to the other side of the valley  and we will force to go back. Then another group of Frenchmen came – they were covered by an avalanche, barely dug. And before that, stayed in the village during 5 days – waiting for the trail after a snowfall  someone make.

Our satellite will not work – no money in the account (And the French have Turaya. )

Local children came/  Ask for money for education, go with some checkbooks .

On the slopes walking goats. A lot.

27.01.2009.  The fifth day of travel

Throughout the night it was snowing. In the tent at night was warm.

We got up early, before the morning tea formed. Padme came and said that today we cannot path the snow. We go just to the village. I need  again put out our sleeping bags (((and all things.

To get to the village – 400m rise in altitude. Snow get  the knee. Go slowly. The day is bright and sunny. Around  walking  fat partridges. They are called mountain chickens. One could, perhaps, even a stick to bring down ….

In the village Nerak only a few houses. Lives 50. At the top monastery. Very old.  With beautifull view.

People live in poverty. In each house a large farm – goats, sheep, donkeys, yaks and horses. All live somehow together. Goats on the roof. There also  grass and firewood. Houses made from  brick. Brick homemade, raw. Sometimes the stone added. Outside, still somehow whitewashed. Inside – just a brick. Kitchen – all in black. Smoke, stink. But not dirty. Doors are either quite small or they do not exist at all. The premises are not heated, and for warmth, which is not, no one was watching.

Throughout the house are hung amulets against evil spirits, evil eye, good luck ext. A very peculiar thing – some locks, keys, skeins of wool. We even found a piece of the old generator! Once he got there?

On every roof – Buddhist flags.

Children run around. In homespun coats and hats. Curious and modest. Women are very shy to be photographed, asked to show them how they are received. Both women and men wear jewelry of coral and turquoise.

Yaks are in their stalls. Everyone have  in the nose ring, and attached to the ring rope. Their tails are long.

In the center of the village met with the military. All the Indians. Such a military army from Wizard of Oz. With ladakh people speak only in English. Ladakh people also drafted into the army. Of course, in these mountains, they are much better soldiers than the Indians.

Throughout the village picturesquely scattered chortens, in the center of the village – a huge prayer drum. We also walked it in a clockwise direction and spun.

Down ran in 20 minutes. Even the sun shine. Dry sleeping bags and boots.

Recorded vist. The results can be swept.

Weather excellent. In the evening hit the same cold. At dinner, soup and momo with cabbage.

Victor turn his nose.

On the rocks, huge goats graze.  Principally we are ready to  eat meat ….

28.01.2009. Sixth day of travel.

At night was a heavy frost. Morning –  awfully cold. Tea – a balm to the soul.

Wrangled porters 40 minutes to decide what to carry. We completely frozen.

They start at  9-20. Strong wind .. very cold. 40 minutes almost run. But warmed up. Many traces of fresh avalanches. The situation in the mountains tense.

A *wet* crossing of river. At this time, through the rapids. Very scary. We dressed and went shoe covers.

In one place we have to take it slowly and one by one – thin ice. The ice cracked. Padme far, the rope still further. And no ice axes, no cats, nothing …. Ugly. Here in general – any error is fatal …

At lunch – a divinely hot soup with pasta, and bacon (brought from Kyiv). Neshev punished, not eat anything. Guards his stomach.

Gone gorge with sheer cliffs. It was dark and cold.

We came for the overnight. This  is the coldest place of the track. Huge steep walls. And – the road! From this place again went to the road! Even the trailer builders remained.

Well, we, of course, have the  tents and porters –  small van. In the trailer the stench and heat. The street is already  30 below zero. Bed. Japanese woman remained in the trailer. And we went to sleep. Worried,  will  we survive …?.

29.01.2009. Seventh day of travel

It was deadly cold at night. Probably  40 below zero. Hide his nose in a sleeping bag – sleeping bag gets wet from breathing, take out  nose – froze. I invented a special project. You take a fleece pants, throw a pillow, and leg on the nose. Breathed warmly and well. Can two of us to breathe through one pair of pants … The whole tent in the morning sparks from frost. In a sleeping bag formed a thick crust of ice.

In the morning washed – hand froze in my opinion, even to the soap.

Started  at 9a.m.  And  went to the road. Awful. Everywhere traces of avalanches, all time  need to overcome avalanches – fell in the snow. Porters make small steps. You walk in the footsteps as on railways.. Seed. Cold. Because the breath  all around in  frost. I have strong sore throat, cough appeared. But back Ivan horror passed.

Okay. It is  snowing. Cloudy and cold!

In 12-30 came in the *café*.. Ultimate dream – a dirty cabin with hot tea. 12 cups of tea – less than 2 dollars. Did not want to go out completely. Come on.

Our goal – village Pidmo. Before the village long suspension bridge. Beautifully. A lot of snow. Kids ride on homemade skis.

We live in a kind of inn. I took off my shoes in the room, put in a corner .. Along the perimeter of abandoned mattresses. Windows somewhere broken and covered with curtains.. In the center of the room stove. . Beside her, while she burns, heat. Walls – like the grave. On the table, artificial flowers (?).

Deciding where to go next. Easy misunderstanding with the French. Oh, those provincial lonely ladies ….

30.01.2009. The eighth day of travel.

There was a dream! Very good sleep. Snow boots for some reason did not melt …

Morning clear and sparkling. Cold – a dog. Indescribable beauty. See almost the whole valley. Surrounding villages. Before each – 2.3 hour journey. Here  measures only time on the road.

It needs 3 hours to reached Zangly. Here is the royal palace, a monastery. Will inspect it by the way back.

The trail is narrow, in the mounds, go hard as  by the sleepers.

In Zangle drank tea at home. On the roof  the goat walks. I want meat.

By the way I even managed to call  from  Padme  phone to home. He said that it costs 12 rupees (48 rupees – $ 1). It is difficult to understand.

Even after 3 hours, came to the village Tzazar. Here lives our guide. We stop at his house. The room we have  this time a little bigger. But for all places  still not enough. Frenchwoman (worst case) goes to sleep separately. She now eats separately …

In our room, even the light is! So ubiquitous stove. There is always falling pipe. It was repeared by notebook sheet and sealed with glue (!). Drown goat sheet – very little heat. Toilet in the house – a room with two rectangular holes. Around sprinkled all rubbish. Though not on the street, and it is good!

31.01.2009. The ninth day of travel.

Today we are going forward last day . From tomorrow, we just return.

We got up later, drink teas  long time, lunch. Dressed slowly, with pleasure.

Day is wonderful, bright, everything shines. Unable to remove the glasses.

Until Songday, following the settlement, reached  it in 2, 5 hours. After nearly an hour crept up to the monastery. 300 meters in height. I almost died. Ivan ran up .. Bad …

There are 30 monks lived in monastery. Together with novices. Yellow caps. Gelugpa. We get to  the room and showed the main hall. Drank at the monastery kitchen tea with cakes. Tasty. Tea with yaks milk. There are  wild goats walking in yard. They are feed by monks. The monks did not grow, do not do anything with your hands. All bring  by local residents. From the top of the monastery have a great view of the valley. We have not reached the city Padum only 3 hours. And it already and the end of the valley. Valley rests on the main Himalayan ridge. He is right in front of us. The sight simply fascinating!

Descended rapidly. In the village children ride sleds. Fun and cool. All animals (donkeys, goat, yaks), all with lots of wool. To touch them – they are very warm.

We want meat. Goat or a sheep. We do not care. No one sells.

In our house a toilet on the roof. No doors. Just walls and more than 3 holes. All falls down somewhere. But look – there are no words. But cold.  Impossible stay long time.

In the evening the mountains become abnormally blue. It became finally clear that Roerich did not invent, but all sketched from life.

Our room  is amazingly cold. From all the windows blowing.

01.02.2009. The tenth day of travel.

The night was cool. Almost like on the street.

At dawn, my assumptions were confirmed with Roerich. Mountains flooded abnormally pink light.

We start out our way. The sun had not come to this part of the valley. Unbearably cold!

Half an hour later reached the sun. Immediately became warmer. Our way back home! Around the chorten. Like the ashes of lamas.

Flying helicopter. We looked at him like a space alien spacecraft. A miracle of civilization. Lech began to seem like a dream … But there is no water under the faucet. But there is water in the bucket. Hot.

This season we were the first from the tourists who passed so far  on the trek.

To Zangla 6 hours. When we arrived at the place – a shadow fell on the village. It was so cold that words can not describe! The teeth chattering ran up to overnight.

Goat or sheep are still not with us. Hope melts away …

In the room during the night terribly cold.  Went to the bathroom to brush  teeth and dumped the bottle of water and a toothbrush – slipped out from the cold wet hands.

All  coughs and sneezes. Victor holds, but does not want to eat. Turn his nose.

2.02.2009. The eleventh day of travel.

We got up late. The day is cold. Today we walk to Zangla. We go to the royal palace, then to the monastery. King lives here sometimes. He has old and  new royal palaces. King receives a salary from the Indian state, because he  is on the civil service.

The monastery was female. Chomo – the same as the lama, only a woman. All the nuns have more careful, cleaner. We sat in the spacious room. We were regaled with tea, we will answer them in the almonds. They laughed, but ate almonds. Home chomo allowed herself be photographed, but asked to send photos.

Nunneries in Ladakh 10.

We came to Pidmo. Here is our last hope to get a goat.

A miracle happened! Goat found! With horns and hooves – 12 kg. Over 80 EUR This  price specially to us- not to buy. But we still bought it.

Then an unexpected thing happened – we were told that we must kill a goat for ourrselfs. The religion does not allow them do this. We have to refuse. In general, half an hour was our porter, took out a stack of mantras, barked, so we sat down and fell silent and began to recite the mantra – the burial service for goat. So it lasted 40 minutes! During this time, one of the cooks slaughtered goat .

As a special delicacy raw liver with salt was brought. Falling into a stupor, we ate the liver. It was very tasty. Then we ate a goat (cooked) and stuffed intestine. However. After the raw liver, we could eat  raw guts.

3.02.2009. Twelfth day of travel.

Again we go down the river. Downstream. Strongly warmer. Probably not more than 10 degrees below zero.

We met a group of French and Belgians. They are coming to the monastery. Once the snow. Hardly reach.

Cold. Again came to the coldest place. I have a bad cough. Asked to be shed. Allowed. Ivan in the tent with the Australian.

4.02.2009. Thirteenth day of travel.

Slept in cabin with all the porters. Not cold. But what about all this bad smell!

Outside awfully cold.

The river was frozen whole. Wind blowing snow. Most go on the ice, as on the rink.

There is no locals or foreigns. We ourselves are on the track.

We came to Nerak. Very, very cold. Increased humidity.

For dinner eat up the goat. Luxury thing!

5.02.2009. Fourteenth day of travel

Ivan cold at night and began to cough.

Reached the cave  quickly and easily. There is no sun. The river  frozen whole. Cold. Began to draw pictures in  mind of the restaurant in New Delhi. Talk about delicious and not always healthy food.

There is a light snow. On the river smooth ice. Sometimes see ducks and some other birds. What do they eat – the riddle of the naturalist.

Tent we put on the edge of the cave – that is not so blow.

6.02.2009. The fifteenth day of travel.

The night was surprisingly warm. In the morning the porters with the noise again divided things.

They walked very slowly. Snowball. Behind us is a dog Nerak khy (on ladakh). We have it fed.

Chocolate has ended. Fat, too. sorry …

Khy chasing goats on the slope. Beautifully. Nobody caught up))

Victor bathed.  One minute 15 seconds. Local delighted. It is by Lama-Le. Very respectfully.

At the dinner were the bones of the goat. Tasty. Sergei eated bone  about 15 minutes. Victor does not want to have custard for dessert. Turn the nose

The evening moonlight. Mountains, like in the movies! Beauty!

Soup served  with popcorn. Very strange.

7.02.2009. Sixteenth day of travel.

Ravishingly beautiful day again! Sky sineyshee! Beautiful mountains. Come slowly. Even cooler.

Khy barking at night. The porters were told us that the snow leopard come – see the traces.

We met a tourist from Bombay. A copy of another one – two hats, wrinkled coat, pants with a pattern, white boots and a camera around his neck. And the stones barely goes! Such wonderful!

There was even a stile. Sooner come overnight. Place cold. Blows from the valley.

At this point a lot of people – mostly one-day tourists and those who finished today or tomorrow starts track.

This is our last overnight. Around a lot of caves. Everyone is busy.

8.02.2009 Seventeenth day of the trip.

All night muzzle. Cold. In the morning it was so cold that I had no strength to climb out of the tent.

Come to the River. Day bright and sunny. The river turned into a skating rink.

Going constant impossible. Porters run small rushes .. as we slide along the river.

In the distance appeared the bus!

It is a miracle!

Eyes do not believe!

Gave porters and guide  tips. Some of the things, shoe covers.

We went to Leh!

Another 3 hours moved the huge stone from the road. Then  ate at temple of sikhs.

By the evening arrived at Leh.

Two buckets of hot water, heat, gas-heated room – and complete happiness!!