Adventure by car in Turkey. Moon Country Cappadocia. september 2009
Дата 29 March 2010

Two-week journey by car in Turkey from Antalya to Cappadocia with return.

Moon Country Cappadocia.

I must say one thing – we found ourselves in the right place at the right time. And the most  correct  was a decision  to move independent in Turkey. After spending the night in Antalya, we placed ourselves in the  car, bought campingas –  it was the end of  Ramadan, everything was closed, so the taxi drivers have helped us. Campinggas  in Turkey – a national treasure and are sold virtually everywhere, including  any gas station … But we are quite happy, buying products with the torch set off. In  unknown Cappadocia.

SUMMARY.  The car Fiat Doblo  is  900 USD for 2 weeks

Diesel in Turkey just over euro per liter

KASAP – where to buy fresh meat. Hangs in the refrigerator.

KUZU – lamb. Aspirate loudly , depicting hunger.

You can roll  eyes …

We absolutely nowhere in no hurry. Therefore, in the FIRST DAY stopped in PERGE. This is the old, yet the Roman city, with an amphitheater, hippodrome and a set of wonderful columns. However, we, like all people, did not follow the beaten paths. Amphitheater  was closed, but you can get around to the right by the trail, climbing mesh-netting and climb to the top threw hole. So we were actually in the amphitheater. Provides a wonderful view from there.

Then our route lay further along the sea and the endless turns of allincluding paradise. ASPENDOS we visited by a  quite civilized way, with a ticket. And  had not regretted – this beautifully preserved Roman amphitheater. Also inside strolled gladiator or someone whose clothes have been made in the spirit of this time. His chest was decorated with huge leather door handle in the shape of the  lions head. Gladiator spectacularly fell on his knees and cried, *Mercy!* His cunning face said something quite different. Over amphitheater spread remains  of a huge city and aqueduct.

At this point, there was our last meeting with the Russian-speaking population.

In the village by the way we drank freshly squeezed pomegranate juice.

In SIDE we stopped to swim, leaked between happy German carcasses and drove north to Lake BEYSEHIR GOLU. On the map were listed some ruins, where we were going to find accommodation. But the cards were  for partisans,, we did not find the ruins, so we just slipped down to the lake and overnight  there. The evening turned out to the beautiful and wholesome. Successfully prepare noodles instead of rice, we hastily prepared plov from lamb and fell asleep.

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Morning of the second day brought us new knowledge of weather conditions  of mainland Turkey. So. In September, Turkey is very cold if you are not on coast! At night the temperature dropped to 5 degrees in the tent. And one of us took (hee-hee), satin lingerie. And summer sleeping…

Then we found a castle. She was almost completely destroyed and  closed. Through the fence we have not climbed, as has already picked apples in the garden. It not possible all time make something wrong! There were no place to spend the night near the fortress. Then further along the coast, we found lot of wonderful places with good trails. Locals caught fish and, as we have seen, successfully.

Our way now lay to the East toward the town KONYA.

At the crossroads with FAKILARA on KONYA we found very interesting house – a local eccentric brought to his house, hundreds of jars of all colors, sizes and shapes. Many himself ennobled marine pebbles. In the yard lay kerosene lamps, trays, wheels, any shaft, troughs, and even cell with this living pheasants. On the roof there were strange statues. Behind the house were scattered picturesquely motorcycles. Grandfather  has in his  eyes  jumping mad  fires. I am  blessed our home with two pitchers, Sergei  twisted in the hands  an old revolver price 1000 U.S. dollars, Victor studied remontant weeds.

In general, we have gone further. Not for  long. Ahead of the course was a huge box of strawberries, carefully grown  by professor agrarian and his wife. They swore that no fertilizer strawberries! For the convenience of eating, we just took a box of strawberries. Tasty and inexpensive.

Konya – a huge city with a very broad avenues. Unfortunately,  we did not have  a lots of mind  to eat in this bastion of civilization. Our path lay through a huge plateau at an altitude of 1200 meters. And eat there was absolutely nothing! Finally, near the famous SUHANHAM we found something like a dining room with a business lunch and  ate all!

SUHANHAM – the largest caravanserai in Turkey. Built almost in the 12th century. Well preserved. Inside it is very beautiful mosque with a mihrab on the second floor. Strange, but beautiful.

By our  general plan overnight we need to spent in IHLARA VADISI. There was  a canyon entrance on the map. Valley begins with the town SELIME. This town should not just pass through – it was a miracle as well! But we were driving to the canyon. On the way  we saw the plate Spa. Turned. Useless, not a season, a swimming pool is closed and, in general, all  not interesting. Finally, we drive up the signs to the canyon. Horror of horrors – parking, entrance fee, opens and closes strictly on time. And in general, no entrance at all! We grieved. Not long. We passed a couple of miles before the end of the canyon and started over a cliff behind the village! With absolutely amazing view and a fresh pot of yoghurt, bought in the neighboring house!

On television showed Arizona sunset. We had lamb in daily menu list. Trained eye was followed the descent into the canyon, bypassing the official entrance. Happy, all  fall asleep.

DAY THREE again suggested  to Viktor that in the mountains usually  not very hot. The temperature  at night in the tent was  + 4. All is well, just sleeping comfortably  in bag +14 …

In general, we struck camp, drove the car closer to the road and went into the canyon. Descent from the road is not visible. It can be seen only from the place of our parking. If still someone wants to go our way, you need to leave the village and saw on the left side the lonely house, look for the descent on the right. The descent is visible only when you approach  directly to the precipice.

We immediately went deep into the canyon on the right side. Bushes poorly impassable. Legs clinging to some loathsome spines. But around completely delicious blackberries. We feel ourselves as a real bear!

Almost immediately began beauty – you are on the weak, as the pulse of a dying path – suddenly see the cave. We, of course,  go there. Soon discovered the ancient rock city with Christian churches. Caves accommodation is  multiroom. Rock scene collapsed and exposed some internal space. Just before the rocks were laid internal passageways and tunnels. Now these premises are located both at the bottom of the canyon, and at a height of 20-50 meters! In the rooms, caves, we found a place to store food, restrooms. Well, the church, mostly single-chamber room. Must have a semicircular sanctuary and a low stone wall, before becoming the iconostasis. We have seen even the church with side aisles! The walls of many churches preserved murals. Some viewed almost a full cycle of the Christian – Christmas, Entry into Jerusalem, Visitation, etc. Unfortunately, many faces of corrupt iconoclasts, although the paint is still fresh!

So we went, it seemed, forever. At some point, on the other side of the canyon briskly swept the group of foreigners. A good idea – there must be a path more width! And, indeed, hardly breaking a mountain stream (1 m in width), we were on the left bank with a well-trodden path.

Even after some time, we get the official entrance. Tickets checked at the top, so nobody ask us. For payment public could see 3 churches. I must say that the frescoes in them were really bright and in a better state of preservation. There were a lot of tourists. Just the whole buses! After walking deeper into the canyon, we realized that we were calling  by our darling Kuzu, and turned back. The whole trip took us about 5 hours.

We still wanted to take a  look at the town SELIM. In general, overnight we just over SELIM , right on the dunes , overlooking the termite mounds. And when the sun started to come ….. This is where it all started! Talk about this miracle of nature is simply meaningless! Orange and blue – a wonderful combination of colors (the flag of Sweden, for example). So smitten with orange termite mounds, and the night sky  dark blue. By the way,  it’s better to be  photographed in red))) in the red all is well))))

The fourth day began with a cup of coffee and a view of the termite mounds. During the night nothing happened with them. Evening, we found that even seemingly untouched by the pyramids, have entrance and windows. Simply, they are hidden from human eyes. And are only visible after close examination.

Then we had a long and unsuccessful operation called KUZU. We visited all KASAP and supermarkets in the city DERINQUE. Lamb disappeared. Neshev personally inspected refrigerators  of Turks. And as he looked  as Turkish, he was everywhere welcome. Only Neshev  never answer, only sadly exclaimed KUZU!! Turks shrugged.

We decided took a pause.

DERINQUE.  Cappadocia has thousands of  underground cities. Those territories were generally  interested to many people. Therefore, when the invaders came, the people calmly sank into the earth. These underground cities, in my opinion, the real miracle! Such a Balaclava in the mountains of Turkey! But very, very old. So, conquerors surprised to discover   that people just leave the city.  And people did not appear before the departure or expulsion of the invaders!

In DERINQUE 8 (!) (!!!) eight underground floors. City takes up to 55 meters deep into the earth! Excellent ventilation, bedrooms, a bakery, the place for making wine, church, chapel and even the baptistery! 10 000 people for 5 years! Not the worst logistics, we have great pleasure in climbing on all the floors. The flashlight is not needed – there is a light.

Our path lay farther toward the village SOGANLI. First we need to  found our dear lamb! But we found him  only in the village YESILHISAR.

And now – ATTENTION! Those who want  to find the  meat and good selection of products should always know how to get to the city YESILHISAR. We visited  this city  5  times- Cappadocia is not very big!

Then we returned to SOGANLI. At the end of the village begins the valley with huge rocks and dovecotes. And then – entry into open-air museum. The territory – 8 pieces amazingly beautiful churches 5-12 centuries. Fresco painting is covered with oil painting. Do not miss DOME CHURCH . In fact, this church is considered one of the most beautiful in all Cappadocia. Ancient architects decided to turn the mound, at least visually, in the present cathedral. So the church is crowned by a dome, successfully carved  and a small crypt.

Entrance  is protected only in the peak hours.

Somebody in the head should come good ideas. This time, Victor suddenly said that  we have already arrived …. And we located under the plane trees, 30 meters from the church, the mound 12 century. While preparing shurpa named All that we have in a box, we went deep into the valley. And found some very interesting points.

First – in the valley we are alone.

Second – the local population still breeds of pigeons. Why – not clear – whether for high-quality litter, or whether, instead of chickens. PIGEON located in the rocks to a height of 50-70 meters. Dovecote  of every rock decorated differently.

Third, get into the dovecote is possible only through the door. Local after visiting his dovecote, walled up the door. But we found one open door and saw that you can only climb up on the inner aisle, looked like a chimney. Stairs, which put on  from the outside, suitable only for low-lying dovecotes.

Fourth – around a lot of delicious apples and grapes.

So, we spent the night at the museum right after taking a saucepan with shurpa. Oops.

In the morning  it was + 2 in a tent. Outside tent all frozen. Starts the fifth day. Already in the morning  arrived Turkish tourists. We quickly  pick up our staff .Our path  was to GOREME.

On the way to  the meat -city saw a brown pointer to KESLIK and quickly turned. Landscape in these places has become quite moonlight – lifeless brown made with volcanic formations. Ahead appeared a tiny village stuck to the rock. Because it opened the gorgeous view of the valley and volcanoes. It was still morning and floated above the valley mist. Under the Mountain was an old rock city and, of course, lots of dovecotes. We are happy to climb the ancient stone steps, to test themselves on dexterity. Not very … At one point in the cave for some reason there was a school desk. Near stay red Turkish flag. Beautifull.

We went down to the village. It  became hot. From neighboring house looked a woman and we asked ayran. A few minutes later she and her husband carried us nuts and a huge pot of steamy ayran. It was so delicious! Money these wonderful people did not want to take, but we left them 10 TL and went on.

To get in GOREME, we again had to drive past SOGANLI. Along the road stuck huge PERIBADZHALARY (so appropriately called Cappadocian fireplaces, mushrooms, well, all these beauties). We rightly judged that only in this wilderness we can try to climb up these mushrooms without having to call us barbarians and enemies of nature. For two hours we enjoyed the mushrooms. Formations were loose and soft, so treat them should be very careful.

Along the way we have turned on the signs to the Roman SOBESOS. At this point, the archaeological excavations carried out, walking is possible only under the strict guidance of the guard and take pictures simply forbidden. Scientists have unearthed the magnificent mosaic floors.

Down the road in the village TESKINPASHA we looked in an old madrassa. Inside it quiet and cool. There was a smell of books. Turks correctly remade madrassas in the library. When we came out a young Turkish woman in a scarf, clutching a book and hand in hand with a boy, aged 10, slipped inside.

Now our road passes by the gardens and low termite mounds. Everywhere around us were the mountains.

Even after a couple of miles, we stopped near the sign KESLIK MONASTIR. Here enterprising Turks decided to sell tickets in their possession. The territory, he also gave a small restaurant. This was the only place where we could get through a long narrow dark manhole in the pigeon. WE  climbed on all fours. It’s luck  that we had a flashlight – pitch darkness! A small loft with shelves and perches for pigeons inside.

This day we didn’t get to GOREME. On the map was discovered carp lake DAMSA BARALI. We catch nothing, but the place was beautiful.

The night was again cold. Sixth day starts with the solutions necessary  reach GOREME. But before that we would like to pass GOMEDA VADISI. Road to Vadis lay through the city MUSTAFAPASHA. It should be noted that this is one of the most beautiful cities of Cappadocia – a myriad of old houses decorated with wonderful door portals. The relief of the city like an accordion fur.

We left the city, turned on the pointer to Vadis and stopped in the field. Nearby held another Vadis, where we could get to GOMEDA. We were not too bothered that we do not pass GOMEDA VADISI from beginning to end. From beneath of my feet ran a huge rabbit. In a few seconds he crossed Vadis and has already climbed up the canyon. From the distance  the hare looked more like a goat. We went to the campaign. The path went  threw the dry stream. Sometimes  it ran directly under the cliffs, sometimes walked through the center. There were no rock settlement , but we were surrounded by sugar loaf milk-colored dunes unimaginable forms. Then the grapes appears.  After a  couple of miles our path joined the main Vadis. There was pigeon, rock city. Vadis has become much broader. For all the time we met only one car with the Americans. After 8 kilometers road came up. By map all was OK.  Then road had to dive into the canyon. There we hoped to see a couple of beautiful churches. But something was wrong with the map. We are moving now by the African savannah. Among the heat, and withered grass stood a solitary tree No one has been around for many miles. So we went ahead. Then we found  hot  fragrant tomatoes. Not those that we buy in the store.

ORTOHISAR appeared unexpectedly. First came the source, and then Fortress the Tower of Babel, descended from the paintings of Bosch. Instead fortress was ground with a table and benches. The Turks were preparing tea and juice. Place  to our camp was defined. We have not traveled to GEREME today.

Grandfather from cafe kindly drove us to our car. In MUSTAFAPASHA were several old monuments, but they were closed – the key need to take somewhere in the information bureau in the city center. By the way, in the future, closer to civilization, such a mode of operation was the norm.

On the way we have changed our tank with gas in URGUP and return to the place of lodging.  URGUP simply a delightful tourist town with a million luxury hotels.

This night – this is a rarity. They need to be collected in a separate collection. Before us stretched ORTOHISAR city with a fortress, our tents were standing in front of a vineyard,  on the table cheerfully bubbling lamb. Beginning of the end and, as described in the literature, the town and fortress were filled with lights. The sight simply unusually beautiful! We drank tea and admired.

At night, jingled a lid on the pan. At morning disappeared cheese. In the distance we saw a red fox’s tail. All is clear …

This morning began with the balloons. The sky was  covered by balloons , but not soap. All possible colors and sizes, they moved over the city rose and fell. Above the town was quiet hum of the gas burners. In general, morning coffee, we had a very beautiful landscape – as in the picture.

Then we climbed to the fortress. In the morning there is nobody selling tickets. At the exit we met 3x Americans – they had a problem, how to enter without paying. I had great difficulty just tell them what they need to pay for  climb into the hole.

And now we finally arrived at  GOREME. Around the obvious signs of civilization – buses with tourists, signs of hotels and restaurants. We booked on a morning balloon flight (150 Euro per persons). And here we are in GOREME.

Primary cursory inspection of dwellings,

There are lodging for all testes

Not a lot of places found

It is better to live  2 nights in a cave with a window than in a cave without windows.

While we were looking for residence a funny story  happened – the car we drove down the narrow street and almost got stuck there. Local people came with cameras to shoot the spectacle. We sweated and puffed. Still, the door had a little to rub … It could be worse.

And now we live in termite mounds with unimaginable transitions and platforms called FAIRY CHIMNEY INN. The hostess just not in itself, as it should be. Prices for rooms are amazing – 55,66,77,88,99,111 euros. We have 99 per  four of us . Two nights – 2 euro deposit. This – with breakfast. We have two rooms – the cave and a separate bathroom with hammam. And 2 dogs, staring us walking. And – yet we have this … The room is lit aquarium. Ivan went to toilet. hear the sound of water and drained to the horror I noticed that the poor fish quickly rush down to the drain! Stop! All is well – worked automatics. Fish, thank God, alive! Miracles …

We have a playground, wooden tables, a schizophrenic view of the peribadzhalary and burner with meat, from which just died the other staying at the hotel. And we do, we eat …

In the evening we still drove to the famous ZELVE. Between the manicured paths rose incredible beauty of the amazing formations. We climbed up the hill to the groups asleep. Not easily get, and were rewarded with great views.

The city itself is very beautiful, with an endless number of restaurants and hookah, with a marvelous souvenir shops.

In the evening went to SULTANHANIM for dervish dances.  25 euros. Booked and bought tickets directly at the hotel. Free seats are not very many. No  Russian speech.. No pictures, no talking, no clapping. I do not know how it all turns out, but even the doctors in Kiev gave me some weak answers to the question – how can rotate in one place for 40 minutes and not fall ???!!! 5 dervishes in white, turning off the mind, swirling on the spot, sometimes slowly changing places. Skirts are like bells. Beautifully …

EIGHTH DAY. We are very white people , slept in beds, have the toilet, take a shower, but no breakfast yet. We are flying in a balloon! Dozens of these balls! All pants, running people all running around. Our balloon, the balloon of Great Goodwin, held last ropes. Here they are released and we are flying up! Sunrise from the stupid mountain range. Our driver Ali (he studied a year each day) masterfully conducts the balloon  directly above the ground, catching the tops of mushrooms, then entrained upward. Around – hundreds of the same idiots! We are in a cartoon. Or in the madhouse. We are very happy!

Landing was a long, caught the ball, they cling. Then, while the Spanish were taken away, we overate tomatoes and grapes.

Closer to the dinner went to the famous open air museum. Alas …

After the complete freedom of movement, crowds of tourists on the tracks and the entrance comparable to the annual subscription to the planetarium, we are upset. Although the church of this place are particularly exquisite paintings. Take the money to the dark church DARK CHURCH! Its worth it.

The evening was decided to hold the hammam and playing cards.. Moreover, had gotten very cold even during the day. We are all dressed very warm. But want just a heat.

Sometimes idleness much better than the endless muving.

The ninth day was the day our turn toward the sea. The morning we were met by a balloon spectacle. Then we left.

Of course, we went the other way, looked from afar at the volcano ERCIYES. In principle, all of Cappadocia – the handiwork of the volcano. Many years ago, ERCIYES  spat on the valley, and the wind completed the rest. That turned out such strange remnants.

We moved in the direction NIGDE, but not by the main road,  a little east. Around the Mountains 3500-3700. On top  gleaming snow. The road is very picturesque. In these places you can make trekking, there is even a hostel. In small villages, in each, there KASAP. With meat closer to the sea is becoming easier. At this time we bought a modest 2 kilo of ribs. Butcher performed step with chops. We liked it.

And here we are at sea! The best we could for him not approaching it! Wow! The  fouled flat coast with suspicious individuals.

It was getting dark. We are horrified and  went to the mountains and stayed in wonderful lemon grove.

2 kilo of ribs – is not much and not enough.

Shurpa bubbling in a pot  for breakfast.

TENTH DAY. Last night was good, even hot.

We went back to the sea. We believed that we will  find a good place. Indeed, near the city SINIFLE, we found a huge fortress KIZKALESI. Under the walls housed completely deserted campsite. From the tap water flowed. Water temperature in the sea 26. We slept without tents directly between the ancient ruins overlooking the fortress. Neshev stuffed fish at night.

Eleventh day. Location is good, we did not want to leave it . We have been lapped.

We wanted a fish. The village NAKLIKUYU – fishing-restaurant heaven. Little Italy, the transparency of water fantastic! While for us clean the fish, we tasted the coffee. Then  person carried us to the local beautiful coast, camping. But we decided to go further. Before SINIFLE beautiful coast, and then it became perfectly flat. After some time again appeared beauty. We wanted to drop in AFRODISIAS there for the night. At one of the pass it seemed to us that  left is the bay. We turned sharply to the primer. After 15 minutes our car drove on a completely deserted beach with blue sea and the rock. We were in paradise! In paradise, the water temperature rose to +28. In heaven there were fishermen. They brought us water and treated with pomegranate

In the evening, our meager diversified menu has a  mullet, baked snapper, flounder and  3

more  species unseen fish. Tasty.

On the morning of twelfth day, we  went to AFRODISIAS. In the beginning, of course, ate some fresh fish, drink  ayran,  salad with eggs, coffee, tea, sweet. Well this … Light breakfast …

AFRODISIAS on the map is marked with three black dots, ie ruins. but actually we got a tall mountain pass to the Crimean peninsula, with small  village. We were graciously allowed to swim. Visibility water was simply amazing – up to 25 meters!

Next our way get to city ANAMURE. Beside him a huge, well-preserved castle, directly on the beach. And near the castle in the eucalyptus grove located camping with hot and cold water. 10 TL per person. Straight from the campsite, we got into MAMURE KALESI. Fortress is really huge. You can climb the fortress walls.

The smell was like in hospital,  near  hissed to each other a German couple. Right on the beach mated to Germans. Around them was dust. Victor watched in amazement life on Earth. The evening was surprisingly calm and warm.

The next day we finally saw our countrymen, hung with nose-bag, inflatable mattresses and children. We returned to Anatolia.

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