Our autumn trip starts at the end of September. On Rhodes now is brilliant weather – filly sunny days, t of water 26, night t 20, day t 28.

First our night was in Rhodes, in old city hotel. Expensive, small room, without breakfast but with tea corner. We made small tour trying to find cheap rent. It was Zeus company in the new city.

In the morning we crossed empty city and rented 2 scooters 125cc, one 5cc and one convertible Volkswagen. Scooters were 8-10 euros per day. Car 40 Euros.

Our adventure starts.

There is one round road on the island and roads that cross it. We moved clockwise.

First stop in small village Koskinou. Here must be beautiful local black and white khoklatiya – pebble mosaics. We found nothing. It was first time, when information said about something, but not last one when there were nothing.
But we found big fig tree with sweet honey fruits.

Next place Kallithea springs. Perfect small bay fully completed with sun beds and umbrellas. They are like Terracotta Army on each beach…. 5 Euros per bed. For endless time. Near there bay is beautiful pavilion which was before luxury spa and mineral water resort.

In Italian period of ruling. Before WW2. Its completely restored now, with big amount of khoklatiya everywhere. Sunny arches of main building, light spots, old photos on the walls. Many films were captured here.
Now around is perfect small beach with dozens of sun beds… Army again.

We need to move forward.
All road from Kallithea pass through the pine forest with multiply turns to the sea. Here are numerous small beaches.

Antony Quinn and Ladiko bay were overcrowded. There were no normal tavern here for dinner.
So we returned to previous long beach Faliraki full with restaurants and Greek taverns. Menu list is the same all over the island. The difference is in size, price and preparation. Dolma, tzatziki and some other starters are the same everywhere. I think they are prepared in big amounts in another place and special car in the morning deliver products to restaurants.
Price for dinner was usually less then 100 Euros for 5 persons with beverages. And we eat a lot!

It was time To think about the night.
We had water, honey, yogurt, coffee and airwood.
We choose long empty Afandou beach. In the begging was small tavern, toilet. Another4 km were empty.

It was quiet and little windy night. But wind blow out mosquitoes! The water was clear and warm. Yacht stay not far away. Sky was full of stars.

Here we first time saw slams. They were more or less hidden in grass. Not a lot of but one per 50-100 m. No one live inside. But it was filling that people not far away.

Day 2.

Such a big pleasure swim in the morning in the empty warm sea! And drink a coffee after!

Time to go.

We put on in GPS all points for today. Cabriolet and we had different speed and aims.

First monastery Panagia Paramithia from right side. We loose the way, get into gravel road, where i immediately understand that i need at least 125cc scooter. Monastery was in the forest on the hill. Church was freshly painted with bible stories inside. Nice place.

Next point turn to seven springs but follow up into the mountains to Archipoli. By the way we stopped near Aghios Nektarios. This pretty new monastery has again fully pained church. Passion fruits made natural fence around.

Monks sell excellent hand made creams and essentials.
Archipoli is tiny village in the mountains, pointed on the slopes of few hills. Here was beautiful bell tower, taverns and local house-museum. Nothing special, but not bad.

Down to the main road. Panagia Tsambika Monastery. The road go strait uphill with 180 degrees turns. Chain of people move up and dawn 300 steps. From the top its brilliant sea view. Tsambika beach which is empty on all photos was full with rows of sun beds ….

Monastery church is tiny. With small window. Like a picture of sea on the white wall. And tradition pebble white and black floor. No photos inside. Crowd of people. Real touristic spot.

By the way dawn i understand that my breaks are not very strong for this hill. I need to change scooter as fast as possible. Zeus company has its branch in Pefkos, our next point.

To swim we stopped in left corner of Tsambika beach. The only place without Umbrellas Army. For dinner we choose tavern halfway to beach with waterfall. It was good shadow place with big testy portions.

Our daily schedule mean that we have a dinner at 3-4pm and then must find place for overnight. No meal more.
Next good beach was Stegna. The road is so picturesque! With great views and great turns. In local supermarket we bought the best honey on island. Real thyme honey, clear, yellow and like crispy. I cannot explain but it was the best.
Trying not disturb people with our 3 scooters and cabriole we moved at the very left end. Here, near the warm volcanic rock we put on our luggage. Nearby house was empty. Still empty. Small path leads to next shallow bay with small house, then another fishing village with 5 houses. But for us with luggage it was far away.

 

Water was warm. Before sunset all people left the beach. We were alone. Unfortunately owners of the house arrived. They said nothing to us. But we also were quite and at 9 pm slept like babies. Our friend fished with torch and sparrow 5 dorado’s.

The night was warm, without breath. That’s why mosquitoes bated our hands and heads.

In the first morning rays i swam in still water. Then we drank coffee, fried fish and plan our day.

Day 3.

First point was Archangelois. Village with cowboy handmade shoes. Nothing. No shoes at all.

Then after Archangrlois first turn left to the mountain. On the top must be Prophets’ Illias church.

It seems that this point was I highlight of our journey. Abandoned road with moon stones around. Rare goats and sheep’s which stand on the road and with astonished glance stepped on the stones.

The road like a snake moved us higher and higher. Sometimes its seems that i go in nowhere. But it was next turn and sea view each time more beautiful then previous.

We were alone. White small church on the top. We entered. Candles, icons, picture of St. Illias.
This mountain itself was unusual. We didn’t want go dawn.
At the same moment Ivan realized that his gasoline escaped. Finished. Completely. We checked the level. Yes. My tank was half empty. Ivan’s was empty. We made a call to cabriole. As we realized after, they didn’t point this mountain, so don’t understand where we are.

In half of hour when the hope met friends escaped we slowly moved dawn. It was breathtaking road!

Successfully get to gasoline station we follow our friends recommendation – Haraki beach.
There near the round seafood restaurant they waited for us.

The bay was surrounded by white small houses. Warm water.
Here i tried sea urchin caviar…. First and last time in my life… 15 Euros. One hour of waiting. Two waiters who brought this tiny bowl with two spoons of caviar…. Really. May be 50 or 70 gr. Not more. I was shocked…

My friends tried this delicious meal. So, only one spoon of this miracle now was my dinner….

This day we decided also find Mycenaean tombs, Lepia dive center to make agreement, change my scooter and find apartments in Pefkos.

One by one. Mycenaean toms not existed. Only signs. Then the main base of moderns house and the fence. No people around. We moved away the fence and entered on the territory. Nothing! Few digged caves with nothing! Nothing!
Ok.
Road to Pefkos through Lindos in sunset lights  may be one of the best. Acropolis in orange red colors, st.Peters bay like a pond.

We found LepiaDC. Tomorrow will be shipwreck GrannoulaK. 80 Euros pp.

We found apartments – two big rooms and terrace – 59 Euros per night for 5 persons.

Evening we spent in local restaurant with highly artistic and delicious food.

3 nights in Pefkos.