GR 20.
Introduction.

This legendary road in Corsica troubled my mind during last year.
So,  I bought tickets for July trip. It was Lufthansa flight. Not expensive but very uncomfortable.
First was Kiev -Munich. Delay for take off 40 min. Gap to next destination Cologne also 40 min. We run to passport control, through safety control to our gates. Airplane waited for us. But not for our luggage. Our two backpacks delivered to plane. Man in yellow jacket shook his head – luggage doors were locked. Backpacks slowly moved away. For long 5 days. We saw them through the window.
In Bastia airport it was horrible experience of fulfilling the papers by local gay. May be he was illiterate,  may be it was his first job day,  may be he never see people before. Don’t know. It was miracle that we received tracked number of our lost luggage.

 

Then during long five days we waited for luggage.
Friendly, hospital people in Belvedere Hotel in Calvi helped us. They called to Bastia airport and decrease price for room for us.  Woman in Information in Calvi twice per day called everywhere.
Our days were strange. From 6 am long walk along the seashore with breakfast and swimming. Then luggage. Swimming and luggage. Siesta. Luggage. Swimming on the rocks near hotel. Dinner. Luggage.  Long walk to mountains or along the seashore.

Total 4 attempts per day to find the luggage and 15-20 km by foot.

Everybody knows that our luggage is in Nice. There are at least 3 flights per day to Bastia from Nice and 2 two Calvi. There were no negotiations between companies. No one wanted deliver our backpacks to us.

Our money melted in hotel and restaurants. We very fully equipped for 15 days in mountains with personal tent and a lot of special food. We canceled hotel near Conca at the end of trip and loose 110 Euros.
It was completely destroyed trip toCorsica.
We need to flight to home as fast as possible.
New tickets were booked.
After 5(!) days of waiting Lufthansa drop off our backpacks to Calvi airport. To pick up them we need a taxi. 40 Euros more….
And we decided to make a trip. Not full. But as much as possible.
And it was bug lunch that we stayed at charming city ofCalvi with endless passes and rocky clear sea.

 

Day 1.
Calenzana (275 m) – Refuge d’Ortu di u Piobbu (1520 m)

Taxi took us to Calenzana. It was 5-20 in the morning. No sun. Grey colors. 45 Euros. But not so hot as it will be after.

First steps.  Just the trail. Up and up.  After 40 min source. The first and last on thus stage. First Coll or Bocca ,  where we ate our breakfast.
Then again long ascent. Very long. And next Bocca at 9am. Here we met the sun,  hidden before. Ivan think that the most difficult part finished.

No. He was not prepared for next hours. Our trail really stopped to be a trail.  Now it was climbing on the stone walls. More people came. More and more.  We were first and now they all passed us. And we need to climb up and down,  steppe and with chains. It was long way up.

Last killing thing was Refuge on the another slope. So, we need go down and up again. Ivan said no.  He drank all water.  He was in swear. He was collapsed.
After hour we get to Refuge.
We didn’t know yet that we can go everywhere and find shady place.  So,  we put on our tent just under the sun,  took our mattresses and made a rest under the tree.

We bought Coke (3,50) and paid for bivouac (7×2=14 euro).
It was shower there, but with queue. So, we wash ourselves from the bottles. It was a place for laundry.
And for cooking we had small air wood stove. It burns every small peace of wood,  grass,  everything. Excellent device!  With small ventilation aside on batteries. 5 min and we have boiled water. 15 min plus and we have our soup or main course.

It was hot.  From 1pm till 6 pm terrible hot.  Then better. And fresh air at night. Not cold,  just fresh.
Our first day ended. 11 km, 1500 up, 190 down.

Day 2.
Refuge d’Ortu di u Piobbu (1520 m) – Refuge de Carrozzu (1270 m)
All our trip, except last day, we had the same schedule
Wake up at 4:00am
Breakfast – porridge with sweets and coffee
Packing our staff
5:20 start the trekking.
Usually we had been the first persons who begin to walk. After two hours, at 7:30 approximately, someone over speed us.

And after 3-3,5 hours of walking we met first people from opposite direction,  from the South.
At 5:20 it’s not dark. It’s twilight’s. And first 100m we did with torches. 100m on GR20 it’s about 7-10 min. It’s depends.
From Piobbu we get down for at least 100m and then started climbing on the rocks. All GR is marked white and red strips. And if we didn’t see strips during 2 min we were completely sure that we loose the way. This road is so unpredictable  that you need to follow signs strictly. Otherwise it’s a big chance that it will be dead-end and you need to return.
So,  I lost  signs. But I had GPS with marked way. In 20 min we stay again on marks. I cannot name this Road or Pass.
It was difficult ascent.
On the Coll or Bocca we stay speechless. It was Circus de Bonifato,  unreal peaks and chaos of the mountains, madness of Wagners music. It was Devils beauty. Unreal.

Next part was a Travers along the slope and next Ridge. To do this we must born real acrobats. It was unsafe journey up and down from one side of the ridge to another. Big part of pass I did with the help of hands. I was very attentive. Each step can be last step. Not only for legs but for hole body.
But I like it!  Views were incredible!  From 11am sun became like oven.

It was one more Bocca. From here we can see again Circus de Bonifato. And from here starts long way down to Refuge. Something like1,5 km and 700m descent. It was not easy. Big steps, unstable rocks, hot Corsican sun. We drunk water like a camels. All time.

In 2 hours we arrived to Refuge Carrozzu.
We had been not first here, but before all crowds from both directions arrived. Stationary tents were placed in shadow places. But there were still a lot of pitches for bivouac. We found one under the tree.
Refuge has grand terrace with great view. Everywhere vertical walls of rocky mountains. I had no ideas where we will go tomorrow.
Shower was closed till afternoon. Toilets were dry. But it was possibility to wash our dirty clothes.
To fill ourselves better, I put bottles with water under sun. In 15 min it was warm. We hide in the bush and took our personal shower.

Then were usual actions – tent, puck up wooden sticks for stove, lazy rest in half sleeping, preparation the diner.
People arrived.  At 6pm there were no more free places anywhere.

At 8-30 we felt asleep.
We made today only7,8 km, but 800 up and 1100 down.

 

Day 3.
Refuge de Carrozzu (1270 m) – Refuge d’Asco Stagnu (1422 m)
There is perfect sleeping at night in the mountains. We didn’t close our tent. Not need.
Morning from 4 am.
5-20 with torches we begun our third day.
15 min down and we get to the bridge and big natural pool. We were exhausted yesterday. It could be nice swimming there.

After bridge the pass turn left and climbing on the big granite rocks starts. There were chains somewhere. But in dry weather they are just for over safety. We climbed up and up.  Stone mountains now were at the same altitude as we are. Again, no ideas, where this pass lead. New circus. We turn left. Two hours passed so first people overcome us. Vertical wall. Stone flight directly to my head but change its way at last second. I even had not a time to scare.

Now we reach Mavrella Lake. Here are camping places and of course  signs, that this is interdit.
I am the only person who swim in the lake. Water is fresh. Could be few degrees more. People are in hurry, climb up and first people from the South climb down. No one want to refresh himself. Strange for me.

Next 25 min effort and we are on the Bocca. Grand view. Ascending for strong people who don’t know word vertigo. And Travers with elements of beautiful madness.

Our last Bocca for today before Asco.
Asco is in direct visibility. It’s directly under ours legs. I mean,  completely vertical down. 600 m down. And sun now is shining with its hot rays into faces.
It was something.

With the help of hands, bottom, huge passes, jumps, without any road. Just signs of GR 20.
Long, long way. Very difficult and exhausting.
When I saw first people with children Ascending to Bocca, I understand that now will be just the pass. Children cannot do this way. Not up, neither down. And for dog it’s also too difficult and hot. Poor animals which followed their masters had misery look.
Now we passed through pines forest.
Asco was closed till 12. One hour and a half of waiting.
Place,  as for me, not good. Ski resort under develop. Hotel, parking place, people,  restaurant. Uncomfortable place.

Circus de LA Solitude now is closed. New road through Monte Cinto marked. But it’s 10 hours long. Even if we start at 5-20, we will arrive at least at 3-30 pm. It’s extremely hot St this time. Ivan fill himself not good.
So,  after doing just 6 km today in 6 hours we decided take navette. But not to next stage. We will miss two stages. And if we do like this we will have a time do all GR20.
Woman in Refuge sold us tickets to Arobacci (30euros pp). Here we bought also some food for small dinner – two tomatoes 2 Euros, 2 pate for 3 Euros, salad in can, peace of bread,  coke. All together was something like 95 Euros.
We took our personal shower -  notes with water and place with shadow bushes.
Navette came at 2pm.
At 4pm we had been on the road before turn to Cazetta.
No more buses today direction Castello di Verghio.
We tried autostop.

It works.
After 40 min guide with dog picked up us and drop off after 10km. We put on our backpacks 10 km ahead.
After 1km couple with caravan propose their help to us. It was miracle!
Thanks to this people we arrived early to Castello.
Here is Refuge, shop with Standard products and Standard prices. Our bivouac cost here 4 Euro pp, not 7, as usual.
Shower was hot.
No stationary tents. Huge area for camping but with only one tree. I saw also cooking equipment. And it was electricity and possibility to charge gadgets.
We were happy.
We prepared our meal and get to sleep early.

6 km only, 870 up, 900 down.

 

Day 4.
Castellu di Vergio (1404 m) – Refuge de Manganu (1601 m)
It was long long day.
We need to make18 km. And up and down as usual +-900. Altitude is pretty the same every day. The distance is different.
First km were just in the forest.  Straight.  No difficulty. No views. Ahead.
Then it was small ascent, then much bigger.

We tiered. From the Bocca we saw the highlight of this stage - LakeNino. It was in one km little bit lower. It was huge Valley more look like altiplano. Emerald green grass and numerous horses.

Of course, we swam in the lake.  Water was comfortable temperature. It was attempt to eat my straw hat by small horse. People appears on the hill. They  didn’t swim in the lake.
We moved along the lake.  It was emerald green grass, small curving streams, horses, Navy blue sky and mountains.  Incredible beauty!
Just when the valley finished was Berger where I bought our first and most delicious piece of cheese. 10 Euros.
The pass follow little bit down along the stream with stone pools. We decided to stop on the stones. We swam there,  prepared our soup, drank coffee. It was so beautiful and peaceful!

Then we moved forward. It’s became hot. The river was close to pass. And some people rest and swim in the pools.
It was another Berger by the way with fixed tents and no shadow at all.
To get Manganu we need to cross one more altiplano and ascent little bit.
Here we are.

Manganu Refuge stay near the small river with pools. When we arrived it was fully packed with people.  They were everywhere.
I was lucky.  I found small and quiet place near the river. It was unique for this camp. We became the owners of personal pool. It was miracle.

 

Our day was long.  So we burst into the river,  then prepare our food, then just went asleep.
It was very noisy moment with cracking and booming. We ducked from the tent. It was a cow and she passed directly into our tent. We have few uncomfortable minutes before she escaped.

It was night before the trekking day.
We made today16 km and as usual  +-900m.

Day 5.
Refuge de Manganu (1601 m) – Refuge de Pietra Piana (1842 m)

It must be long day.
We observed the map. We must follow the river up till the lake,  then cross the mountains.
In reality it was again hard work up. Again it’s seems to me that I know where is the  Bocca. But mountainValley became narrow and narrow, more close and without any chance to escape.

Then it was dead-end with the real crown of towers. Completely vertical and  amazing.
Signs show us the way up. More and more steppy.
And this last movement when one your leg still on the slope and another push you up and your eyes see huge cirque with sharp towers and two round lakes. It’s a picture. From the travel magazine.

We stayed there for twenty minutes can’t stop observe.
Then our trekking was around all this huge cirque. Up and down,  with chains and climbing. But at this moment we didn’t know about this.
Road was very beautiful.

After long trekking we rich another Bocca with another view.
Traverse to the left slope, another Bocca,  another Ridge.

And Pietra Piana 200 or 300 m down. And it’s sun burn all body. And today we drank a lot of water.
Somehow we get the  Refuge.

Mostly tents easy on the central place. It was small stream and small pool.
There were a lot of places with nice blew  but sun was killing. I found bushes. We put on our rent between them and received strong shadow.

This place was fool  of foxes. And I bought here our first saussisson, produced from black French pig. It was delicious.
Our backpacks we tied to the trees.
It was quiet night with fresh air.

Only 8,6km. Bloody.1225up and 996 down.

Day 6.
Refuge de Pietra Piana (1842 m) – Refuge de l’Onda (1430 m)

Refuge de l’Onda (1430 m) – Vizzavona (920 m)

It was our most hard day.
We decided to make two stages.
First to d’Ortu. But not normal classical GR20. We choose alternative alpine road . And it was sense to make this. GR just go down and then up. Nothing to watch. Many meters up and down.

Alpine road show mountains in their morning beauty.

It was the place where we saw two sides of Corsica at the same time. It was difficult climbing and long exhausting descending to d’Ortu. Ahead was Bocca to Vizzavona.  Bocca with mount d’Ortu and total ascent 600m under the 11am sun. In d’Ortu we fulfilled our bottles, because next water must be only one  the opposite side of the ridge.
Slow climbing,  not really bad,  but hot and long starts.
At noon we had been on the Bocca.

I realize now how much we need to walk down. 1200m descending and 7-8km long.  Too much.
First it was acrobatic exercises. Then it’s became better.
Near first water we just relax.
In next water we swam.
Then we start to swam in pools. Every pool was warmer then previous. Then I found chain of pools with warm water. It was like a luxury spa. More down we saw deep pools with green water and waterfalls.

We had been tired.
Angels cascades full of local children. But now we have no time.
Then we saw bridge and snack bar.
We sit.  And we eat. And we drink and rest.
Usually people hi to Vizzavona main camp. We were so tiered that decided to make bivouac in Gite D’Etape on Col de Vizzavona. It was 15 min only.
Owner was not very friendly. He even tried to show us small patch for our tent between two another. There were a lot of free space around. I asked. He agreed,  but not friendly.  It was only one shower and one toilet for bivouac people.
So,  shower, dinner,  tea,  sleeping.
At 10pm I wake up because of noise.
I opened the tent. It was a fox just in 20 sm. She was looking for food in our rubbish pack. She didn’t afraid of us. Ivan went from the tent. She looked at him. Surprise. She run away.
We put all our staff on the tree and went to sleep.
In half of hour next one visited us. He was much more long nose, stay near entrance and look at us with his hazelnut eyes. He run away only when Ivan took in hand skipole.

So,  for today we made 20 km,  1500up and at least 2500 dawn.
We were completely dead

Day 7.
Col de Vizzavona(1241 m) – Bergeries de Capannelle (1586 m)

Early morning start. Wild pigs near the road. GR20 from col is much better then from Vizzavona. You do not need go down to station and again up by forest trail.

It was long day. I cannot say that it was something very special.  Just forest. And long trail. Not bad. So,  at 11 we stay near the stream in shadow place.  Prepare some food and tea. Relax. Stay there may be 2 hours.  And then went to Refuge.  It was unexpected long way more.  And steppy up for more then 200m.

Then we need to make decisions -  go to Refuge or to Berdgery.
It was mistake to choose the Refuge. First -  it was overcrowded. W fount tiny place for the tent. Tents were everywhere.
There were  two showers,  place for laundry,  two toilets.  Thus place,  like Asco,  was with ski lift,  restaurant and big urbanization.
Berdgery stood50 m up on the slope with great open view and without any crowds of people.  And the main. Next day to receive full enjoy better follow alpine road,  not main GR.  And alpine road starts from Berdgery and go to Refuge Pozzi  and to Col de Verde.

We made today 16km and +-800m approximate.

Day 8.
Refuge de Capannelle (1586 m) – Refuge de Prati (1820 m)

Again early morning.
And then may be 5 hours to this damn Col de Verde. Really,  nothing interesting. A lot if streams by the way.  And just forest with pass. Long.

At Bocca we drink water and juice. Extremely expensive.
Then starts ascent. It was not horrible. But we were tired.  Today No one overcome us.
From Bocca there is only 20 min more on the flat Ridge to get Refuge. It’s in beautiful place.  Huge lawn, stones,  slow slope with clouds, rising up to us.

But how dirty was this place!  Very unfriendly owners, pasta and rubbish in the stream,  rest of rise in the source. I tried to find clean place in the stream. But then I saw the tub.  And it’s starts work.  Jetting out something bed smelling.
It was windy place. So we put our tent without nice view but in more or less sheltered place between the bushes. Smells here were not best. In two hours people start arrive from both directions.

We bought oranges.  1 euro p piece. Big sweet oranges, without stones. Delicious.
Evening was more quiet then day time. Horse tried to eat our straw hats.
Early sleeping

18km, aprox 1000 up and 1000down.

 

 

Day 9.
Refuge de Prati (1820 m) – Refuge d’Usciolu (1750 m)

Today only 10km, passing  on the ridge, 7 hours, and as usual something like 1 kmup and down.
At 5-20 we started.Sunrise we met with views on both sides ofCorsica.  It was really beautiful Ridge but not easy. It was complicate. We moved slow.

By the way we turned to old Refuge Locomo with water source. The source not exist any more.  It’s dry.
And after-  ascent with climbing elements starts. We again cannot understand, on which Ridge will we go and where will be next Refuge.

We crossed main Ridge and saw Refuge.  It was far away and  may be 200m down.  On this way ,  completely spoiled by horses, it’s mean  1 hour.
Refuge stated in unreal place. In narrow slot between ridges. It was rocky. We put on tents between stones with great view. Incudine mountain just opposite us. And no ideas how  we need to go. There are three different ways -  normal GR, it’s longest, short alternative through the top and Ridge, and road under the top.  Shortest has two water source. Normal has Berdgery by the way.
We don’t know what to choose.
Under tent is Small shadow.

I bought piece of watermelon. The price was enormous. But it was so tasty…
When we ate, big grey horse modesty approach asking for fruits and bread.  No. We cannot. She tried to steal the straw hat. Attempt number 5 in this mountains.

After lunch we saw that clouds became more solid. Cumulus with heavy gray bottoms carry water. Strange,  but after one hour nothing happens. It was hot. I took second cold shower. People were called to take a dinner.  We ate our savory stroganoff and went sleep.

11km, 880 up and 750 down.

Day 10.
Refuge d’Usciolu (1750 m) – Refuge d’Asinao (1530 m)

Yesterday  from D’Usciolu we tried to find the way to Incudine mountain. In vain. We didn’t find it.  Today  we started.

First was long beautiful Ridge with a lot of complicate ascending and descending.
Then we get into the fairy forest with sweet water source.

Nature changed.
Now we are in Ireland Meadow, may be.
Streams, pitches of forest, huge rocks.
And then this stupid sign
Left to alternative way throughmountIncudine, right- to the bergery by GR 20 and after 3-45 you will be in Asciano.
I don’t know why,  but we turned right.
It was big mistake.
We made semicircle around the mountain,  add 5 more km,  add I think at least 300-400m up and down.  And bergery. We get there and of course,  when we had been asked about omelets, answered, Yes.  Small or big?
Small. It was smartest answer of the day.

We both received portion 400g of omelet. At least. I was filled with it completely. I cannot breath. I cannot move.
We walked very long.  And get to Bocca approximately 70m less then submit of Incudine.

It was breathtaking view to Needles of Bavella.  It  were dark clouds around. Asciano was 600m lower.
During next 2 hours we slowly moved to Refuge. It was hard.
Next to Asciano Refuge is Asciano bergery. Never stop in Refuge!!!

 

It was so dirty! With icy water in shower, with rubbish everywhere and rude owner.
Clouds appears all around and even small drizzle was during 20 min.

At least 22km, 900up and 1200 down.

Day 11.

Refuge d’Asinao (1530 m) – Col de Bavella (1218m)
Our last day.
Because we decided finish our trip on Col de Bavella we slept till 4-30. It’s first time we wake up so late.
We started at 6-00.
After breakfast, of course.
First steps and Ivan fall down into the barbaris bush . This plant has long thorns. Ivan received dozens of them immediately into his palm.

Then it was pretty long ascending. We choose alpine road near Niddles de Bavella.  Unfortunately, pass didn’t go through the Niddles. Only near.
We had our rest and go down to col. It was now visible.
And all difficulty,  obstacles appears now. The pass was not exist any more. We again creep down,  slowly moved from stone to stone. The wall with sharp peaks roses before us. And signs get us up to vertical wall with chains. It was our last day.

Then we took a dinner, a shower and went to Porto Veccio. Just two days of crystal clear water and sun.