Via Fransigena
I would like to make a trekking  in Tuscany.
This is the best way to fill this part of Italy. Anyway,  as for me,  by foot is the best way to explore the world.
So, I choose small part between San – Gimignano and Siena.  And May is one of the best time for visiting this part.
OK. 1st of May we are with our backpacks, tents, sleeping bags inItaly.

After one day in Florencewe took the bus to Poggibonsi. This city is like a knot with net of trains, buses and auto routes.
The city was empty at Sunday,  early in the morning. The woman at station said, that taxi will come. It’s only  two cars and they are quiet busy. Phone numbers on the sign near taxi stop didn’t answer.
The bus to San Gimignano must be in two hours, so that’s why  I prefer taxi. It’s only 13km from Poggibonsi to our camp site.
OK. In 40 min we had been in camping. 35 Euros for 13km. More then I expected.

Camping situated on the neighbor Hill with San Gimignano (SG in future).  All services work excellent. Hot water, shower, laundry machine ext. There was small market and restaurant on the territory.
Camping is huge. A lot of campers with caravans. But we are only ones with backpacks and  without the car.

To SG is only 1,5km by the way with perfect view on the city. Its Torres visible from camp,  from the road. Unusual picture.
Its a medieval miracle. In 14-15 centuries cities, and Florence also,  had numerous Torres.  They had been private. They had been visible far away.
Now only in SG left 15. It had 75 Torres before.

SG overcrowded. It had central narrow Street and small passes to the lower streets. Stores are full with delicious food- truffles, chingalle sausages, biscuits, different kind of cheese.
We walked through the narrow streets.

SG has three paces Must Visit.  It’s Duomo with its excellent frescoes, it’s museum near Duomo and ascent on the top of Torres Grosso and church of St. Aogostino with Benozzo Gozzoli frescoes.

It’s all so beautiful!  The colors still fresh, hundreds of details in Gozzoli pictures made me happy to endless observe of the walls.
Strange, but North part of city with its small gardens and St.  Aogostino church is empty.  All people are on the center.
At 3 pm we started small trek  from SG to vineyards, through hills  and olive grows. All time with view on SG. In the past SG has saffron production and then colored cloth in saffron, it means in Orange,  color.  I can imagine all city walls with orange color long fabrics, waving on the wind.

 

No people. We are alone. Artichokes in the fields.  Never saw before. Spring flowers.  Wild orchids. Birds.

We entered to the camping after 26km from the direction of Santa Lucia.

It was cold night.  Unknown huge bird cry not far away.

In the morning we drank our coffee and ate small sandwiches with truffles salsa.
This land,  as I understand,  is full of truffles.  They are added to every kind of dishes. I think if try it possible find ice cream with truffles.  I asked when is the season for pick up them.  It’s late autumn. And of course you must have well trained dog. In one book I read,  that training of dog starts from using men’s sock. Dog try to find it at first))

Today we are going to Volterra.

And will return by foot.
Taxi drop off us in the next medieval city. It was quite expensive. 60 Euros. And 40 km.

Volterra was the center of  alabaster craft in Tuscany. And it’s still have alabaster,  artists who work with it and their workshops.

The city is on the top of the hill. It has one central and few additional narrow streets.
Duomo has external wall made in black and with marble strips. It’s look like so modern!
And stripped inside.

I tried to find view point to observe Volterra from the side.  No.  I didn’t find from where people make photos of this city.

Medici Fortress now is a prison. It’s dominated on the city when you entered.

And then we start our walk.  Of course, after huge dinner.
We walked around strange big Hill, where there is a castle,  then get into small forests, up and down the hills.  Everywhere are agritourismo farms. It’s possible to overnight here.
After few hours of walk we entered to 12th century Borgo Penino. Here is a source with fresh water,  and medieval buildings, quiet Park area and impossible view on Toscana hills.

I think all forests here are full of truffles.  I don’t know why, but I think so.
We made a stop in former Abbey. Now it’s an expensive hotel. Perfect place for Miss Marple!
Our next point was Castelveccio. It was nice walk. But near the main building of Castelveccio I lose our way. During next hour we tried to find not dead-end or pass down to historical ruins of Castelveccio, but real gravel road. It’s became slowly dark. It was time to hurry.
At the end we found right road,  pass close to old towers of Castelveccio and finally reached San Donato.
San Donato is so small and charming!  Only few traditional houses,  one Street and old church. Near the houses were big vine  barrels. It was point for testing.

We passed 30km. Till our camp left only 4 km,  but 1,5 we must make by auto road.  It was impossible in the dark.
We called taxi. He get us to the camp.

Next morning we must start our Via Francigena  trek.

I found it occasionally just in two days before our trip.
This pilgrims road is from Canterbury Abbey to Jerusalem. 1722 km.  One of the most scenery parts is from San Gimignano to Siena!  As it was mentioned in internet. And I also put our trekking in the same area!
So,  our task now will be more easy. We will have special signs for pilgrims by the way. Not all time. Because we will go to Colle di Val Delse.  Real pilgrims – no.

After big randonee from Volterra our friends decided get next part by taxi.  They picked up our backpacks and follow to agritourismo farm near Colle Di Val.
And we started by foot.
VF (Via Francigena)  begins just 100m from our camp. It’s marked at least 5 different signs. But it’s marked!
TypicalTuscany green hills were around us. And small patches of forest.
Our first rest stop was on Tuscany villa Torracio di Chiusi. We asked for cup of coffee. This charming estimate stay here from 1200 year. First tower was build here.  And family arrived at 1170 ac. The age of youngest building is 600years. And all time one family live here. There is a small family church were delegations were buried.

 

From the tower we saw SG,  endless vinegars and hills. We had been in the hurt ofTuscany.

Small effort more and we arrived to Senior Claudio Agritourismo farm Podere-Fonternaccia. 
This house also stay from 1300AC. It was horse changing station before.

Senior Claudio and his wife are so friendly and kind people!  12 cats and two dogs are on the lawn bear the buildings.  If you want the cat in the bed left your door open. We want.
Senior Claudio drop of us to the city. Colle di Val is typical -  Medici Fortress,  position on therock Hill,  narrow medieval streets. At the end of old city and end of rock is a lift who get us down into the modern city.  It’s not so modern,  but much more younger.  I would like to find glass museum. City Colle di Val is something likeBohemia inCzech. According to Internet. In reality,  nobody can help us with museum location,  no bright Windows with crafts.

We found museum. There is one room downstairs which is really worth to visit.  There are mirrors on the walls.  And big columns fulfilled with pieces of transparent glass. With lights directed on columns it’s look like mysterious.
Senior Claudio picked up us in the city and get to his farm. He and his wife prepared us such a huge delicious dinner that we were more then happy!  It were cheese, Italian ham,  special pasta with meat sauce,  vegetables with ginger, full big pan with different kind of meat for Gargantuan!  Fruits and fragola with yogurt!
Early in the morning senior and seniora Moroni prepared for us huge and delicious breakfast.
Then all four of us start walking to Monteriggione.

Yesterday we made 14 km.
No ideas how much today, may be 20.
Morning fog was on the fields.  I decided to cut the road. We entered to the forest.  I hoped to see wild animals but in vain. Only numerous traces of chinghalle (wild pig)  and deer.
It was  comfortable morning temperature. After few hours
We passed Stove. Small empty village.  No coffee.
From here we at first time saw the Crown of Monteriggione.
Just near the Stove is Castel Pietraio. It’s big,  dark and medieval,  half hidden in the forest. Bushes of enormous roses blossom everywhere. Women there refused sell us coffee  and not allow visit the toilet.
Here we again on our VF.  For those who are on the cars it’s by road and for trekkers it’s through forest and olive Grove.   Today was really sunny.  It’s became hot and we hurry to finish our trek.

After may be hour we reached Isola Abbey. It’s old, spread on vast territory,  consist of 5-6 buildings. This point has hospital and overnight for pilgrims. We were kindly asked,  how many km we made and if we need place for sleeping. No. We only need to drink something and little bit of rest in shadow.

All was in local cafe.
Last 3 km were through the forest. We didn’t see Monteriggioni because of big Hill. After forest the road ascend and we stopped -  next Hill,  just opposite and very close to us,  completely green and with Vineyard on its slopes has only one breathtaking thing -  it has crown of medieval city Monteriggioni. In green grass flowers of red poppies. Picture.  And we are in the picture.

 

We descent on the road and ascent into the North gates with strange antyslipping coverage on the ground.
My friends sat near the gate and asked go ahead find the restaurant.  It was funny,  because in 250 m I saw South gates. It’s exit. This city – military fortress was impossible tiny. It has 1,5 streets, 50 habitat, two gardens,  4 restaurants,  3 hotels,  10 shops,  house for pilgrims and  protection wall with towers.  During this description  I can pass all city and escape the fortress.
Diner was perfect.

No one wont move more today.  We asked for hotel.  Yes. There were two rooms. Small but with all facilities.
When I lay on the bed, through the open window I saw the wall,  but much more lower our window and endless Tuscany fields and hills. Brilliant panorama!
And wall is lower because the highest point of this city is central Street.  Any other buildings are on the slopes, so they are much more lower.
In the evening we made trip to the walls. It’s bigliteria, tickets and two entrances -  North and South. It’s only beginning of  the season. So, it’s not overcrowded.

The night was little bit chilly.

At 6am we were ready to start to Siena. The fortress sleep. Few cats lazy moved on his Street. And pigeons.
We descent from the hill. All around was in for. Only cypress blacked on the fields.  The crown was enlighten by the sun.Tuscany. Sleeping Beauty. It’s really hard to imagine here that now is  21 century,  gadgets paradise and stupid war in our poor country.  We have the same hills,  not worth forests, porcini and birds. But no one can say I am here from 1170 year and all my ancestors live here.  It’s impossible to imagine.

Our way was to Siena.
Poppies, irises, castles.  One stop on pilgrims point.  We Wade phone call and arrived men who bring us four cappuccino and pilgrims stamp. We gave donation and follow forward.

From this point we left VF.
Our campsite in Siena is little bit aside and I changed the track.
It was one more funny thing.
4km before Siena we stopped near Berlinguardo villa on the auto road.
It was stupid follow this way. But no more passes. Only road. And we decided call for taxi. Women cannot understand our location. She need number of the street. But no number!  Only point of Berlinguardo!
During our conversation big black car entered the road.  It was owner, Senior Nannini.  I asked for help.
He said to tube- there is no number here, there is a villa…
In 10 minutes taxi arrived.  10 minutes later we had been in the campsite.
Our trip was not finished yet. But trekking inTuscany was over.

Buy,  charming Tuscany!
Hope to see you once again!