In hour we get to Police. This is small city in South Cyprus. It’s last big one near Akamas Peninsula on the north coast of Cyprus.

I found here apartments just 25 Euros for 3 persons. With kitchen and hot water . Two rooms. Yes. It  was truth. It was nice place for overnight.

Drop off our luggage and we tried to find camping in Police.

We found mandarin Grove, tree with pommelo, Tree with local nuts. So testy!

We found camping just near the sea. It sunked in the water after rains. Smell of eucalyptus was around.

 

 

Police was empty. Completely. Windows and doors closed, shops, markets closed. Only few cafes and  two or three local Taverns were opened. Empty streets. No  people, no cars, no children. Only cats. Very hungry cats.  In Cyprus cats are instead of dogs.  They follow you. Try to get inside your lodging. I gave them bread. Cats eat bread. No comments. They are really hungry.

 

In the morning, when we decided that need to go around Akamas Peninsula, big cold snow starts. It was cold!!!!
We left our luggage in the room,  wait till 9-30, and  follow to Akamas.

The road was beautiful. We had been alone. Grey sea, waves, small brilliant port Letsche.

And Akamas.
Here, near the restaurant we left all three bicycle. Our way was to Afrodita trail. Trail was wet and slippery. Around blossom orchids, wild peons and flowers which names I don’t know. It was fairy beauty around. We climbed up. Terracotta color stones in emerald green grass. And navy blue sea. Then I decided to rich end of peninsular. It was long way. Near fountains (we saw nothing, there is only name) we turned back. Strange,  we hear shooting in the mountains. We had been in natural reserve. There were signs everywhere that hunting is not allowed here. And all our way we hear shootings. As the result, during long way (20 km) in area completely abandoned by tourists during winter time, we didn’t meet animals. Even hear. Nothing. All is killed.

Buy the way back we bought some fish for soup.
Dinner was delicious.

It was time to follow forward.
In the morning we put on our luggage and started.
First Letsche. Today the sea was more quiet.
Next point mountain village Nio Chorio. From here we hope find the way to the coastal road of Akamas.

Nio Chorio is extremely beautiful village.  To get there we pushed our bicycles up during one hour. There were small narrow streets,  church, stone houses, old people.  And of course, up Hill.
3 km ahead pawed road ended and we ride on gravel one.  I hope turn dawn on the crossroad and after 7km reach coastal road.
But one local,  who collect there mushrooms,  highly recommend another road, much longer, but no so difficult, as he said.
I don’t know, it was mistake or not to follow men’s advice.
First we get again on the Ridge. Then we found our Afroditas trial.

Our way downhill was awful. The road was stony, with rocks,  sometime wet and slippy. It’s seems, no one use this road during long time.
We moves slow. Very slow. Our bicycles start to mowing and roar after this mad jumps. The road was endless.

OK. We reach the sea. We were alone. Waves, wind, sun. And clouds in the mountains. May be rain there.
So we follow till Lara.
Here we made camp near closed for winter time restaurant. Now we had water, toilet (!), friendly Georgian women who presented us by nuts and numerous curious cats.

The wind was strong.  It was cold but without rain. We took our dinner and our breakfast on the empty terrace with full sea view.  We had guests -  numerous cats. They all watched how we ate. Impossible. One cat was extracted from tent, one from my trekking boot.

Our next point was Pafos. By the way,  near the sea,  4 km after Lala was turn to Avakas gorge. We hide our bicycles in the cave.
Then we follow to gorge. First it was just gravel road. Then we took the path near small river. During next km nothing Special was noted.
And then we saw the sign — AL what you do is up to you. The gorge became narrow, high.  It’s look like Antilope Canyon in USA! So beautiful and unexpected!

In some places it was muddy, rain dropped from walls,  big rocks closed the way. We moved forward.
Then gorge became wider. In vain we tried to find the path up.  No. We climb up by goats trails. But they became invisible between soft rocks. No way up.
We turned.

Our way to Pafos was all time near the sea. It’s possible. Even Google have mistakes in this area.

It was late afternoon even we arrived to Pafos. It’s became windy and chilly. We understand that we don’t want make a camp. But all hotels were closed!
Only one near the archeological part worked. It was overpriced.
Local lodging asked 60 Euros without heat,  breakfast and sheets on bed. We said nothing and follow to Kato. It’s main center of Pafos. The most  nice area, as we understand after.
Just near the ancient church with St. Paul pillar was small hotel. 45 Euro for 3 persons. Person on reception ask why we live together. Because it’s cheaper. OK. And he gave us two rooms. Same price. 45 Euro for three of us. With breakfast and possibility left our luggage tomorrow until we observe old ruins and Kings tombs.

Brilliant!

Night was cold, but we slept in the war rooms.
Next morning we found bus station for our Larnaca destination. We will need take two buses. Even  three. Local and two intercity.

During 3 hours we looked around king tombs,  mosaics and churches. Tombs are real Cyprusgem. They were build with strong Egyptinfluence and have no analogue in Europe. Just near the seashore huge rooms with pillars digged in the stone. Here is old acropolis for nobles.
And another prominent place -  multicolor mosaics. They are really different — like pictures, ornaments, Escher geometrical carpets.

Time to go.

We put on our bicycle into special packs. . After 3 hours we entered to Larnaca airport.

We choose Nissan Evander or something on E. Big car. Rent a car company promised that it’s 4×4. They took not So big money for rent,  block only gasoline money on our  card.
The car was only with 2 front main wheels.

After night in Larnacas Cactus hotel, where we left bicycles and some stuff, we went to Troodos mountains.

Here was ice and snow on the road. And immediately we understood that we have a problems with our big uncontrolled car.

Our first point was Palendry with Unesco church. Picilia region.
This village spread between two or three big hills. It was cold and empty there.

I decided that church with tower bell is on the top of the hill. We climbed and I saw that bell is not ancient. Church was closed. No signs. We returned to the center.

Here was another small church. It’s look like as small farm house. Nothing special in architecture. Old women with huge key closed the door. We asked to open it again. She was angry, but opened the door.
Inside was real miracle — fully covered with frescoes walls. Women didn’t  switch on the light. She murmured something,  like go away, and show us the door. Go away!  But we didn’t want.

There was our first meeting with charming villages and churches of Troodos.

Everywhere we had been alone. Everywhere we try to find keys, or church. Everywhere inside was something I can name Sixteen Chapel of Cyprus. 12 century. Impossible.

Lagudera church of Panagia Araca,  also 12 century,  was hidden under the second roof. To be invisible for Turkish and Arabic invaders. Inside was fully Bible on the walls.
The day was sunny and lovely.

We went to Kakapetria. Thus village,  with its only one charming old Street was overcrowded. The hotels were fully booked.  Those,  which have places,  on the other hill,  asked enormous prices. Heavy smell of grilled pork swim in the mountain air. Romea diaspora controlled this area. Very few persons speak English.

As we looked around,  we understood,  that we dislike this place and fell ourselves uncomfortable.

We moved to Pedulas.
It was very slippy in the mountains.  Our speed was like snail.

Pedulas is charming village.  Every Street situated on own terrace.  From everywhere huge Cathedral is visible.

We very the only guests in Mountain Rose Hotel. We had breathtaking view and normal price.

Next day we walked to Kalopanaiotis to the very ancient monastery of St.Lampidistis. The road was empty. No cut off  through the mountains. They can be found but we preferred the road. There were huge cherry groves on the slopes.

Kalopanaiotis is big village with terraces. Everywhere are orange trees. Closer to the monastery we found grape garden. Testy. And wide wild bushes of rosemary with violet-blue flowers. As I understand , very good in meat dishes.

Church inside monastery killed us with its beauty! From the floor to ceiling walls were covered with bright frescoes. Amazing!

Not far away near the sulfur sources  venetians built charming bridge. Its still exist.

Church in Pedulas, also  protected by UNESCO, dedicated St.Archangel Michael  was tiny. That’s why it was surprise to found there frescoes ofSt.Archangel Michael  more then 2 meters high!

We stayed 2 nights in Pedulas. Alone. Quiet.

Then we moved to North, visited church in Nikitaria, abandoned village Ficardu. By the way we found another venetian bridge and lianas with wild kiwi!

We didn’t find any hotel or pension by the way. It was windy and cold. We didn’t want to make camping but we have no choice. That’s why we descent to the sea and tries to find lat place. Strong wing blow from the sea. It was small tavern near the shore. We asked locals to put our tents near tavern. One men proposed to overnight in his house. Without any payment. He is alone and it will be pleasure for him. OK.

His house was1 km from the sea. House of old men who live alone and don’t want keep his lodging. We had everything with us – dinner, breakfast and sleeping bags. And he gave us hot water , gas, warm house and his hospitality.

Our last points were Stavruvony monastery, founded by women and not allowed any women visit it now.

Aya-Napa was not interested to us. Protoras is much better.

In Larnaca we had been full last day. Charming city. On the opposite side of Marina, at the end of  quay its small local marina with fish market. Fish was really fresh, but prices not low.

So, our trip was over.

We made 380 by bicycle and at least80 kmby foot. We made full circle around the island. But its seems th me that this island can show us some more miracles.