Bagan. 

 

Our way from Kyakme to Bagan was 8 hours by private taxi. With same guy Thiha. We paid was this part 250 usd. So, total 5 days of driving ( in Mandalay, to Monywa, to Pin Oo Lwin, to Kyakme and to Bagan ) was 520 usd. 

 

I booked guest house in Bagan by phone. As it happens everywhere in Burma nobody waited for us. Gust was fully booked. 

In 20 min we found another one. It’s looks like old and dirty. We had for one night shared room for four of us with bath (40 usd) and two another nights in new building perfect rooms (35 usd each per night).  With breakfast. Laundry  was cheap – 3,5 usd for 14 items! 

 

Now it’s possible rent electro motorbike for full day. 8usd per one. They are fast and quite. Amazing!

 

At evening we visited Shwezigon Zedi Pagoda. It has four long pass ways and main stupa surrounded by temples. Also around main stupa there are golden trees with big golden leaves. 4 escalades are on 4 sides. And they marked by strange beasts, more similar with sphinx. 

In two temples still exist original tiles with multicolor flower ornament. I liked temple with mirror and glass decoration and golden standing Buddha. He keeps his clothes by fingers like do women with her skirt. And brilliant umbrella also shadow him. 

 

We had no time to get sunset point. But we are ready for morning sunrise with the keys from bikes in pockets. 

 

To get main sunrise Paya we wake up early. It was really cold! Even chilly! From gust to sunrise point something like 20 min. It was still dark. 5-40, when we found S. Paya.  Torches ascent it. We join people by steeply stairs.  

 

This Paya has 3 levels and it dominated in flat area. There is not a lot of payas on which you allowed to get. 

 

We stood in big amount of Japanese waiting for sun. 

 

At first something huge starts to appear in front of us. It was Dhamma Paya. Then mountain ridge appears very far away.  And milky mist between payas, stupas and temples. Trees without trunks ( upper part visible and low part in mist). The sky became rise and then pink. More and more payas now were visible everywhere. They were like pictures. Without details but well drawn forms. 

 

And then all sky was covered with numerous balloons! It was so beautiful!

 

We returned to hotel for our breakfast, recharging of our bikes and changing in bank. 

 

Now we have huge program to observe old Bagan, jangles, famous payas ext. 

 

And we start. 

 

By the way to Old Bagan there are also a lot of temples. All around is full of temples. Soon you start to understand that’s by of them quite similar. 

 

Before Old Bagan we ducked to Thin Milo Temple and into Ananda. Ananda became my favorite one from the first glimpse. It’s massive, with huge monastery walls and shadow cold pass ways around main area with four Buddha’s. This corridors or pass ways have windows and nooks with Buddha statues. Here I first time see play of light and shadow in old temples. 

Exterior of Ananda Temple is rich decorated but not with tiny small details, but really with big scenes of art. Every corner guarded by big sitting lion. White building has also number  of glazed tiles with Buddha stories. 

 

Just before main entrance is marcher of pottery, souvenirs, local food. It’s vividly alive spot!

 

And then we get to Old Bagan. First to Faberge Egg or Bupaya. This oval form gilded stupa appears  in Bagan the first. But  during 1965 earthquake it was destroyed and restored again. Egg is hanging on Irrawady river.  We had this place as sunset point next day. Not bad. 

 

Following the roads inside Old Bagan we found Hindu Temple. I don’t know why,  but this part didn’t impressed me. I wanted to ride on dirty roads, between trees and stupas in jungle. 

 

But first we need to see most famous spots. Some of them also on the road to New Bagan.  Here are also lacquer shops and restaurant. 

I spent little but of money on bowls and boxes. And then we ate in small restaurant with very test food and pleasant prices. We ordered such a lot of food that our neighbors photos us! But now we tried seaweed salad ( testy), bamboo salad ( can be), tea leaf salad ( one of the best), tomato salad ( high end), as usual avocado juice ( without comments – best one), pineapple and cashew dish ( strange),  cabbage with meat ( nice) ext. 

 

The rest if day we ride to and fro trying to get the biggest temple in Bagan – Dhamma. It was impossible. We every time found new and new ones, we loose our way. At least we rich South and North Guni – two stupas, close to Dhamma. It was possible climb on the top and see sunset. There were some people but not overcrowded. Dhamma was just 500 meters but we still didn’t visited it!

 

Sunset was amazing. With all nuances of pink color and milky mist. 

 

We decided start next day with Dhamma. 

 

Our last day we missed sunrise. We confirmed our tickets directly in KBZ company and turn our bikes to Dhamma. But by the way it were again few temples which we didn’t see yesterday! Mysterious Dhamma was not visited yet. 

 

Dhamma is the biggest temple in area. It was build in one year. King made such a lot of bad things in his  life, including killing his father and brother,  that decided ask Buddha excuses with this temple. But he was so cruel that every worker who did his work not good was behanded. 

Temple had bad spirit. 

 

As for me, it’s mysterious. We named it Pentagon or Pyramid. 

 

It has huge corridors full of flying bats, hidden steps to second level which is without floor. It has rooms with sculptures and different strange ways, passages ext. 

 

It was midday. It was really hot. 

 

We decided cross territory with stupas and pagodas by dirty roads. Just through the middle of Bagan and take a lunch in New Bagan. 

 

We had been only four persons during our way. 

 

In New Bagan we ate in local restaurant. Then get to china restaurant with  Irrawady view. Left we saw second guard of the Bagan – city – golden stupa in the shape of egg. 

 

Our way was now directly to hotel, because energy in bikes starts to melt and go dawn. 

 

We took a look on the evening Bupaya ( Faberge Egg), evening Ananda and Thin Milo Payas.  

 

That’s all. 

For us Bagan is finish because next morning we have a flight to Heho and Thangwe. 

Now we have beach program. 

 

 

 

Ngpali. 

 

Here in Burma all airport services and registrations, immigration as well doing strictly with sheet of paper and pen. Any computer at all! Any electronic information. No flights, no time, no gates. Nothing. 

 

You will be founded in list, marked, given by sticker with name of air company. Someone pick up your luggage also with written destination.  From here it’s your chose where to be to know that your flight is available  now. 

 

We waited additional hour with our KBZ company to make flight to Ngpaly. Here airplane is like a bus – from city to city, pick up and drop off. Funny!

 

Aircraft is pretty new one. 

 

In 2 hours total we get to Ngpaly. This is the main ocean village in Burma. 

 

On arrival everyone need to make immigration control. You will be noted in big book. On departure they  Will check again  all information from this book. 

 

Taxi driver in airport ask 8 usd for driving with us from hotel to hotel to find accommodation.  

 

There is only one street along the ocean through the village. All hotels are one the first line.  Houses are on second and between the hotels. Famous restaurants as Two brothers are also here.  

 

The street is bumping, destroyed, ugly, dirty, without anything interesting! It’s under construction. Construction mean that many woman and man by hand ( no machines) put on stones, asphalt ext. 

 

First was guest house. Only for 20 usd per room you will receive something I cannot describe what. Awful! 

 

Next were hotels or fully booked or really very expensive (290 usd per night, 400 usd) 

 

Last one was Diamond hotel. After it – only fishers villages. There were bungalows there. See view 125 usd. Pretty big, with full wall window, huge beds, condition, tv, all facilities and breakfast! Really luxury!

 

This hotel is not popular because of two reasons – village is just near and you hear, smell and see life of people in the village. It’s also include fisherman boats, anchored opposite hotel and drying fish on big nets 200 m aside. 

 

Second reason is river from right side of hotel. River brings what it brings. Different things. And on high tide ( every day at day time) fisherman boats go up and dawn in the river. 

 

The sand is soft and clean. The sea is blue. Temperature of water is 27C. We are happy. Locals bring fruits on the beach. It’s dry and comfortable full day! 

 

Despite drying fish there is no flies or bad smell here. Few mosquitoes at the evening. 

 

Close to another hotels there are sandy beach restaurants and souvenir open shops. And there is also Inlet Restaurant on small island just near our Diamond Hotel. This one was one of the best in our life!!! With so delicious and testy food! No ideas what main chief did with products but he is real Cuisine God!

 

We ate also in beach restaurant. No. This is waste time, spoiled fish ( grill to make in dry and ugly). Friend visited Two brother. Expensive and not testy. Reservation need in all restaurants. 

 

So. To eat good with sea view and fresh made gourmet dish –  Only Inlet restaurant! 

 

There is nothing to do for us. Only water and books. And dinner of course. 

 

We observed all our bay at first day and made the trip to neighbor bay in opposite direction. Here is also fisherman village. But bay is full of oil and rubbish. It’s awfully dirty. 

 

There us possibility to make fishing, diving, snorkeling here. But it’s not interesting here, as for me. And expensive for tourists. 

 

For us three days were more then enough! 

 

Hotel provide fast Wi-Fi and various types of dishes for breakfast. 

 

Very loud gecko lived in our room and knocked every night))

 

That’s all with Andaman sea and Ngpali resorts. Now we will flight to Sittwe for our next destination Mrauk U. 

 

 

 

 

Mrauk U

 

 

River Kaladan and remote city Mrauk U ( you need say Myau U, like cat)

 

Mrauk U is one of the most abandoned and mysterious cities.  To get here we took the air flight from Thangwe ( Ngpali) to Sittwe.  Here we have a boat up to the river Kaladan. 

 

Sittwe was important city. But Mrauk U was one of the biggest Hubs in the world! The main dates of Mrauk U are years 1450-1750. At this time the city was like Venice (!), much better then London(!) and Amsterdam (!). King had 10000 boats. Caravans from all over the world entered to harbor of Mrauk U. People belong to Mon. This tribe live in west part near the sea and occupied territory from modern Bangladesh through Burma till Thailand. 

 

Now we have a boat. Unexpected it’s big, with tent, toilet, huge chairs and refreshments. 

 

The speed is 12 km per hour. We need pass 75 km. 

 

Kaladan river in connected with sea. It is wide ,  dirty and brown color. I have no envy touch the water. 

 

First few hours it was sunset. Then it’s became quickly dark and cold. Two guys sat on the very front part of boat with powerful torches. They monitored water all the time. On the water there are – fisherman with minuscule flat boats, long logs of wood, possible nets, sandbars and turns of river. Over our heads numerous stars. 

 

It was late evening when we passed through narrow river to Mrauk U. Jetty is real burminian – we had been 4th boat parked one side to another and closed more then half of river!  Old jeep waited for us. We were only four persons on the bank. 

The road to hotel was dusty, dark, sandy, along some small shops. There were two guest houses by the way. If we didn’t have agreement in advance with guest house I don’t know what we can do near completely abandon jetty.  In 10 minutes we arrive somewhere. 

 

Guest house Prince looks like under construction but with extremely friendly personal and very delicious cuisine (  as we understand this later). 

 

The rooms are very basic. But hot water made by open fire is twice per day. 

 

Next morning at 6am we went to see sunrise on the highest stupa Shwetaung Paya near our lodging. Thanks to hotel staff they show us the way – in darkness it was unreal find our way up. 

 

Sunrise was as usual pink with heavy white mist between the hills. This time  mountains stay in rows, with hills crowned by stupas and payas. 

 

At 8am we rented old bicycles and start our Mrauk U program. Here are not big distances but the roads are in awful conditions, no signs, roads are curved, any world in English (only burmany), nobody speaks English and nobody understand what you are looking for. 

 

First place is Kothung Paya – the Paya of 90000 images of Buddha. This Paya is little bit aside of main attractions . It’s looks like mini Borobudur on Baly. Huge stone temple surrounded by platform with 5 rows of small sharp stupas. Inside platform is passage full of curved images and statues of sitting Buddhas. The games of light and shadow began now!

Near the Paya there are two small local open cars parked. They switch on music on full! After I read that Nats ( spirits of Burma) love aloud and joyful music. So, it was for Nats only!

 

Then we drive between fields with harvest to main complex. We know only direction so after 40 minutes we found the road. 

 

Main complex it’s my interpretation of area full of huge, gigantic payas. They are like citadels surrounded by heavy old stone stupas. 

 

We approached to Dukkanthein Paya. It’s like fortress. Giant knight castle. Main entrance to the temple after ascending from east side on platform. Inside corridor turn left and leads to the center like in escargot! This is the Model of the World. Left and right sides Buddha images. There are numerous windows and sunlight slipping threw them and give spots in corridor. Passage make three full circuits before ended in big room with golden Buddhas. Spots of light comes from upper parts of walls. Buddhas statues are in half shadow. 

 

Next Paya is in glued with temple. This is Shittaung Paya. It’s very eclectic – growing from huge platform and enriched by something like bridge with wide arches. Inside there is main corridor with inner wall fully decorated with rows of sculptures. This curving has more then 1000 images of life! Here are birds, animals, small scenes from village life, Jataka scenes. 

Next turn and I see long pass way with sitting Buddhas from right side and small statues from left side. All images are completely different!! Buddhas are quite. Light smile touch their lips. They are not like those replicated in every Buddhist picture. I am alone in endless pass ways. Turns, again, smiling Buddhas. Pass way became narrow. And inside are sculptures of Buddha. 

At now as usual, last room and golden ones. No more fresh air. It’s hot here. 

I turned back. 

Here is second Paya and I don’t want escape from it. 

 

Third masterpiece is next to Shittaung Paya. It’s midday and sun burns us. It’s impossible hot. 

 

This is Andaw Paya. Enormous bell from bricks with dozens of another brick bells. And near the temple. We get inside. Pass way. But not like shells circles. It’s with shapes.  And leads to the main octagonal chamber with huge pillar in the center. Pillar richly decorated with Buddha’s and small images. Doorways to last chamber are also have high relief. 

 

We would like to find one more Paya. . Mothabodha Paya. But it’s hot and I lost my way. I keep left and get to the village. We asked people. They show the way but as I understood later, this is typical eastern behavior – never say NO. They show the way to main monastery which they know. After 20 minutes of hot hell through the fields we get on territory. Nobody know where we are. But not in place which I want to find. In hill near monastery small door. Monks open it to us and propose get inside. It’s even electricity inside! The pass is very narrow and small. All around is clay. And small sculptures made from clay. I am crowded inside. Here is hot and no air. Pass way leads deeper and downhill. The steps starts! Downhill to the center of the Earth!  No. I fill that my mind starts to change because of airless. I am return. 

 

And we are again on dusty streets with very approximately road. It’s so bumpy, with holes and big rocks! Difficult even on the bicycle! But we are quicker then cars))

 

Our dinner was in local café. It was not testy. And when I tried to find toilet I found such a lot of rubbish everywhere! Only one thing – there are no flies! It’s very strange!

 

Before subset I found Mothabodhy Paya. It was really not far away from Andaw Paya.  Mothabodhy Paya was like small jam – strange octagonal shape with added entrance. Inside leads arched pass way decorated from top to earth by images of human life and Jattaka. 

 

Next to Moyhabodhy is the chain of hills. Mrauk U is strange place. It’s flat but has shape numerous hills. May be 100 m high. Or less. We ascent to this hill. And met pink sunset with Payas in this point. 

 

Next morning we took the boat and jeep to Chin villages on Lamar river. We would like to see old women with tattoo on their faces. They made it during second WW or after not to be pretty for Japanese soldiers. This tradition now is not exist any more. This women are quite old. And they are only 9 left alive. We saw them all. They like to make photo and shake the hands. In their villages there is no electricity and no wells. All community collect money (700 usd) to build well. During rain season water in the river is so dirty that its became undrinkable! 

 

Afternoon we returned and took the dinner in our Prince hotel. It was delicious !  4 bikes and 4 dinners cost us 28 usd. 

 

Next morning we had out boat to Sittwe to airport. Our way back starts at 6am. It was very cold and windy. We put on all we had, drink coffee and waited for sun. But even after sunrise it wasn’t warm. The real warms appears at 10am. But at that time we rich Sittwe and follow for dinner and to airport for our flight to Yangon.