Our Namib trip. Day 7. Messum

 

Before , at home I think that we can overnight near seal colony. Now I understand – its impossible. Seal colony like everything has gates and working hours. It’s not permitted rich seals by beach from campsite. You need to get by car to office and buy tickets. Office work from 10-00 till 17-00. In weekends from 8-00. Entrance – standard price 80 NAD pp. 

 

Seals have smell. But really not very strong. You cannot step on sand. There is small wooden bridge (only one) and there is view platform also. The seals are close but you cannot touch them. 

 

This colony is biggest in the world. But there few information that 600000 seals are NOT only on Cape Cross. They are on West coast!! From SAR to Cape Cross. Don’t try to find million of seals in one spot! They are on few thousand kilometers distance. 

 

We observed them for half of hour and follow our way again. 

 

I put our trek through Messum River to Messum Crater. This dirty road is passable. And it’s not bad. Road has hard sand. 

 

On the map this road exist for 4×4.

But near Messum river there is no any sign. I have google maps and we turned directly into Messum river. There were numerous tracks. 

 

This road  in the bed of river is beautiful.  After few kilometers we saw first Welwitschia . Then we saw dozens of them, big and small, males and females. 

 

Welwitschia  has only TWO leafs. When they became bigger they start to divide into strips. And it’s seems that this plant has a lot of long leafs. But there are only two. It’s visible on small young plants. 

 

Colors of desert in this are became more and more red. And when we get into crater they became terracotta and pinky red. The way through Messum river takes only 1,5 hours. And it was midday with killing hot air. Wait here for sunset was impossible. 

 

So we follow father to North and on the road turned left. Before Ahead was Bramberg mountain massive. And now we left it from right  side. At the end must be Ugab River Rhino Camp. 

 

Last hour road was awful. With big stones. No people, no cars, no villages. We are alone. And we entered to Damaraland. 

 

Miracle was that this camp exist. There were people, ticket office, shower and prints of elephants everywhere. 

 

This camp was may be one of the most romantic camps I ever seen. 

 

We asked for alternative road from camp and locals gave us paper with scheme of roads in this area. It was possible rich Twyfelfontein through Damaraland. My Google maps show completely empties in this spot – no roads, no villages,  nothing. So, to use this plan we need to trust in it. 

 

Our Namibian trip. Day 8. Damaraland. 

 

We get up very early. 

And start our trip between the mountains. 

 

First we need to follow north. There is one road. After 23 km it’s dividing on 3 roads. Here it is stone broken sign and arrow to East direction. Only one real way to Twyfelfontein. The road to North is closed. The road to west is follow to Abu Huab (?). 

 

First part ( before sign) was with stones and may be 10 km were on really bad road. Then it was simply gravel. And after 23 km we found this broken sign. And small piece of stone with hand made note in German – so where is right way?  We were not very attentive. So we went North. It was mistake. Not big one. But first car went ahead and as we understand our mistake we begun blink them. In vain. They didn’t see. Only after 30(!) km we turn back. Nobody know does  this North road follow us to main road or not. We lost 3 hours. 

 

At 12 o’clock we again start from broken sign. This time to East. It was all correct with plan which we had. Near artificial old waterhole we turn right. This part was more or less simple.

 

We get main road at evening time. And just get into Movany Mountain camp. Charming place with huge rocks. We took last place in camp site. Lodge was fully booked.  It was hot water and amazing view. 

 

Day 9. Cheetah farm. 

 

After breakfast we entered to Living village near Twyfelfontein. The main attraction are naked black girls. Only two of them were beautiful. This is ordinary touristic place. 8 USD pp. 

 

Twyfelfontein is not one rock with carving. This is big complex. And only guided tours are allowed. At least 35 min between the rocks. And additional time for ticketing, waiting ext. So, at least one hour. 

 

Curving made by bushmen’s. the main curve – lion-shaman is with paws with 5 fingers. Real lion has 4 finger prints.  So half human half animal. But another carvings had print of human foot with 6 fingers! And nobody say that this is abnormal! 

 

And then we start to hurry to cheetah farm. It’s 220 km from Twyfelfontein. Otjitotongwe Cheetah Farm  The road is gravel. So you need approx. 4 hours. And cheetah visiting starts from 16-00! Exactly!!

 

We hurry very much.  Last 8 km were inside the bush with numerous fences which  we needed to open and close. 

 

10 min before 16-00 we had been near farm. We stopped with open mouses- on the territory there were 4 luxury big cheetah, completely free!!!

 

The owner approach to us and asked follow the track. It was the way to camp site. Camping situated approximately 2 km father. In the bush. Small dik dik met us. This is only one antelope which has couple for hole life. 

 

There was swimming pool, restaurant and few small houses. Pheasants and hornbeaks were everywhere.  Owners asked wait us 10 minutes. Then they will pick up to make contact with Cheetah. 

 

This farm is unique in Namibia. Namibia has many conservation areas for predators, especially for Cheetah. Cheetah is the weakest predator  if compare with lions and leopards. And Cheetah can eat only fresh meat. So, if another predators take away cheetahs prey, they stay hungry. And they also chase for domestic animals. Farmers shot cheetah and their population decrease. So in Namibia there are Foundations and conservation centers for this big cats. But only in one farm you can touch, play and stay free with cheetah. 

 

And we arrived to this farm. 

 

Open van get us back to farm. Owner prevent us not to take with us any shawls, sunglasses, hats ext. because cheetahs will play with this things. And you can imagine this paw playing with your hat!! 

Don’t touch bellies , don’t step on the tail. You can touch the neck and the head. 

 

The wire gates opens and we entered on territory of farm. Big cheetahs came closer.  Then another. They are curious. We follow staff into small garden near the main building. And cheetahs follow us!  Now there were 4 of them. All females. 

 

They began play, run, then one sit near me and I touch her charming spotted skin! What a pleasure! It’s not very soft but I fell that I touch dangerous and nervous predator. She has round light brown eyes. I scratch her near ear and she began roar like big cat before sleeping. And then fall on side. She has huge paws. 

My brother sit near the house and cheetah interested in his backpack and tried do bite it. My husband was in shorts and cheetah wash his bare leg with her tongue. 

 

It was amazing!

 

On the lawn was one more person – small dog Jack Russell. She has color of giraffe. She was like an mad molecule! She jump over, run, bite(!) cheetahs, touch her nose and play with tail. Time by time one of cheetahs also jump and start to chase this small creature. They play hide-and-found around the tree. It was something incredible! One woman has ribbon on her ponytail and cheetah take it with her huge teeth!

 

Cheetahs live on farm from 2-3 weeks of their age. But they are still wild animals inside. And if domestic animals come close to electric wire, cheetah can do problems. 

 

We played with animals half of hour. And then we drove to big territory where cheetah live in nature. They are not completely wild. They are feed by human. Every day 2 kilos of fresh meat per cheetah. This farm has 16 cheetah- female. It means – 32 kilos every day. This morning a donkey was slaughtered. Fresh meat!

 

Staff took big plastic cans with meat. When we entered first  territory , two cheetahs approached. Saliva dropped from the mouth. Crying, muying,  roaring and attempts to bite the staff. Staff took big pieces of meat from can. One by one. Every cheetah received personal piece. 

 

Day heating go down. We returned to camp. Completely happy. Sounds of birds and wild animals. Charming place. 

 

This night was not so cold. I waited for different animals but in vain. 

 

Namibia. Day 9. Etosha

 

Early in the morning all campsite was surrounded by hornbeaks. They didn’t afraid us and tried to still food. Hornbill is look like toucan but with thinner bill. There  were two big grey birds with name go-away-bird. 

 

We paid for yesterday pleasures with cheetahs and camp. 200 NAD pp. all together 160 USD per 8 persons. Not a lot for one of the biggest emotions in life!

 

Saying good buy to owner we also say good buy to cheetahs. They were just near the gates. Jack Russell explore tongue and teeth of big one. She bite him kindly. 

 

Good buy cheetahs! Hope they will live as long as possible and will have a lot of small cubs!

 

We drove direction of Etosha. To Anderson Gates. By the way we saw small groups and single warthogs which ate grass near the road. They didn’t afraid of cars. But when we start to slow speed for filming, they all escape under fence into bush. 

 

In Outjo -last city before Anderdon Gate we bought additional portions of fresh meat and kindly ask in Information Center to make phone calls to camps in the Etosha. I didn’t understand answer  when phoned myself. May be it was mix of Afrikaans and English. 

 

This information center has one of the best craft shop inside and very very friendly staff. Women phoned to camps. There were no places in lodges in Okaukuejo and Halali but with camps – no problem. 

 

The rules of entering into Etosha are strict. You note all information and time of entrance. 

 

After 15 km it’s lodging and camping. With gates. They are open at 6-18 and close at 19-02. 

 

You need to understand by yourself that payment for permit, camping and night drive are in different queues.  There are 3 cashiers in line and any sign who responsible for what. It’s up to you. 

 

Permits for 2days are 660 NAD (66usd) per car with 4 persons. Camping for one night ~100usd for all. Night drive ~40 USD per person ( from 20-00 till 23-00). 

 

Campsite is overcrowded, with little shadow, bath facilities are far away, they are not enough. Waterhole is just before bungalows. Not far away. There is also restaurant ( dinner 17usd, breakfast 11 USD, no need reservation), swimming pool, small supermarket and numerous jackals everywhere! 

 

First we want to make self drive. We had 3 hours. 

As we understand little bit later, this park is full of giraffes, different kind of antelopes and rhinos!  First rhino was just near the road but hidden behind big bush. Next two, different kind, I think white ones, peacefully eat the grass in ~200 m from us. It was beautiful view!

 

Mostly, animals were near the waterholes. In Etosha there is big lake but it has water only two month per year, in April and may. So, animals forced to stay near waterholes. There are artificial and natural waterholes. And I cannot say which one are more beautiful. 

 

Jackal was in camp when we returned. It became cold. But we didn’t take something like jackets into night drive. 

 

It’s starts at 20-00 in fully darkness with chilly cold. Open car with switch off lights. And driver who keep right hand big red torch, left hand he keeps the wheel, turn his head left and right and note every movement in night savanna. 

 

First it were jackals and few antelopes. But then the theater starts!

 

Far from us on the warm asphalt road blinked eyes. It were two big lions, slept on the road. When we came closer, they slowly move away and we saw also third one, big and old, who rest aside. 

 

Lions lay not far away from the road. Side by side. They didn’t afraid us. 

 

There are 500 lions on Etosha, 150 leopards and 35 cheetah. Only population of cheetah is go dawn. Another felt themselves more or less good. 

 

We drove inside the park little bit more and found rhino. 

 

By the way back we saw act 2.  Lions again were on the road. When they saw us they slowly moved forward. Then stay, think. One escape from the road and started to eat grass (!). Ranger said that this lion is very hungry and dangerous. 

 

We left him soon. Lions also moved along the road. We were on our parallel ways. And here we saw small sleeping impala. We waited for the end of action. Impala slept. Then in one moment her ears became to move, faster, she stay on her legs at one moment run away. Two lions were just in 10 meters. They follow her but not with big speed. The prey escape. Finish. 

 

We returned to campsite frozen by the wind and full of impressions. Jackal searched for food around cars and tents. 

 

All night there were aloud sounds of animals. 

 

 

Namibia. Day 10. Etosha. Halali. 

 

In the morning I visited waterhole. It was cold. I want sleep after night drive. waterhole was empty. 

 

We took breakfast at restaurant. Jackal drink water from pool. 

 

We drove direction Halali through all waterholes by the way.  We met all kind of animals. Most amazing was big lion with radio collar who rest near the road ( I found him) and elephants who drink water, took the bath from mud and then made sand masks for hole body. 

 

Halali situated inside the bush. Price and rules are the same. But this point is more abandoned. And campsite has a lot of facilities and tries with shadow. Waterhole is just 500 meters. 

 

After camp preparation we went to waterhole. All looks like you are in ancient amphitheater and waterhole is the scene. This waterhole is artificial. Near the water was family of elephants. With babies. Big one was a guard. 

And suddenly black rhino appears from bush. He approached slowly and carefully to water. His ears were like conical tubes and he moved them very fast. He drink little bit and made few steps back to big log. He became scratch himself with log – head, neck. Then he sat on the log and scratches his bellies. Stay move less and slowly return to drink water. And then all repeats. After 4th time i returned to camp. 

 

This night was noisy and cold. At 12 I was waked up by loud sounds of jungle. I took my torch and went to waterhole. People went from waterhole. They were happy. 

 

When I get amphitheater there no people and no animals. Light yellow color fell on water. I waited 45 min. Nothing. Only one jackal. 

 

 

Namibia. Day 11. Erindi. 

 

In the morning no animals near waterhole. But herds of giraffes, zebras and different kinds of antelopes. 

 

We move slowly. We are not in hurry but need to cover 400 km to Erindi Private park. There is a place in campsite. May be.  And this park specialize on leopards and  lions. 

 

It was long way. All day. 

 

At 5 pm we reached reception in campsite. And here was surprise for us – 4 empty luxury lodges. We bought them. 200 USD per couple with dinner, breakfast and morning drive. 

 

23 km more to lodge through the hills. Different types of antelopes and they jump everywhere. Funny!

 

Lodge has two waterholes. One in the middle between rooms and another – big chain of holes near restaurant. I went to restaurant and was stopped by two warthogs who ate grass near pass way. They look at me and escaped with tails exactly up. 

 

You eat in restaurant and just observe what is around in this area. At first there were 6 hippos. They went out of water and escape in night. Then big big family of elephants came. They had such a small babies that they had problems with fast running and coordination! 

We ate delicious dinner and watch real National Geographic. Then we need to move faster because after 9-30 pm lions can come to drink water near bungalows. 

 

Then during 2,5 hours we struggled with heavy sleeping. We stay on terrace and observed  animals. First came orix. He drank water and then start eat salt. Big bricks laid on the lawn. 

Then came rhino. Just drink water and fall dawn near waterhole. That’s all! He was slept!

 

Two elands came. One jump on one place when saw Rhino!

 

We went sleep. It was impossible. Every day without sleeping….

 

 

 

Namibia. Day  12. Beginning of way back. 

 

Morning starts from coffee near waterhole in restaurant. Hippos moved slowly to pond. Then came marabou. Finish. Sun rise. 

 

Morning drive was in cold fresh air.  With numerous antelopes. Now I know may be 8 types. I like springboks because they can jump up high on one place. I saw eland – big cow with head of antelope which can run fast. Orix – charming masked antelope with thin legs and long tail – most elegant one. Waterbuck is a wander – furry antelope with pretty long and oily fur. Even lion cannot catch her!

We saw lion who stay in separate territory for adaptation and lioness who waited for him in 150 m in park. Then cheetah run away. She has radio collar. 

 

Last leopard was seen here in August in mountains. With two babies. This is shy animal. And rare. 

 

We don’t  want stay here second night. 

I proposed to go in thermal springs not far away. After 2 hours of riding we saw that thermal spa is under reconstruction. Few phone calls to lodges – all are fully booked. Bad news. 

 

We return to main road and get to Van Damn Bach recreation area. 

 

I don’t want comment this nosy overcrowded  place. This is big damn lake with fresh water from river Swacop. All locals rest here. With songs and music. And a lot of alcohol. 

 We were lucky find small bay. The water was fresh. Comfort temperature. Few local boys try to catch fish. One was lucky. Fish was big. 

 

We ate everything at dinner – we think that we have our last dinner in Namibia.  

 

 

Namibia. Day 13.

 

This night was warmest during this trip. Altitude here 1355 m.  Group of baboons waited for our wake up. 

 

We arrived to Windhoek at 11am.  Breaks brakes in our car. We check out the cars. Every item, as I see after, was washed and checked. Every! The car was decomplectated! And then collect again. 

 

When we arrived to airport we soon understand that our flight canceled. 

The hotel for overnight has problems – no water, no electricity. In the morning it looks like Armageddon – people with torches. Searching for clear cup to drink something. 

 

Hope to get home. 

 

After long flight we arrived to Frankfurt. Yes. Representative from air Namibia waited us in hall and gave number of next flight. She also gave us hotel for overnight. Just 5 minutes from airport. Here outs electricity, hit and cold water, buffet for diner and civilization. I don’t know what is better- Afrika or …