Namibia. Dunes – Swakop. Part 1. october – 2013
Дата 6 November 2013

 

Our Namib trip. 

 

Day 1. 

 

It was long and annoyed trip to Windhoek. We arrived early in the morning. Not so hot, as expected. This is because altitude – more then 1400 m. 

 

We rented two Toyota Hiluxe 2,5l. 

It’s fully equipped. But not strong car, as we understand after. All kitchen staff is inside the box. This is not really good idea. Every day it’s long Lego process to complete the box Wright way. And casseroles are 5,4 and 3 lilies each!  The weight of casseroles are also 5,4 and 3 kilos!

 

Well. We ducked into supermarket. Good idea when you do shopping with full stomach. We were hungry…We bought approximately 250-300 kilos ( including 140  liter of water. 

 

And now our way to Buells Port Guest Farm. This farm has abandon campsite in the mountains. 

 

Small groups of baboons , antelopes. 

 

We are tired. But arrive to camp before sunset. Camp has special device – ” donkey” heater. You just put inside this construction two pies of wood and after 10 min you have hot water in the shower!  We also made huge dinner with Flintstone steak! 

 

The night was very very cold! 

 

Day 2.  Dunes.

 

Our main purpose today is Nuakluf Desert. 

By the way there are small herd of zebras, antelopes of different kinds. 

 

I think to cut the road but this is not possible – all small roads are closed. So, you think you go where you want but thus is illusion – you go where it’s allow to you. 

 

Dunes are far away. They are red color. All around – signs to camps and  lodged.  And all around fences. There is no land without fences. 

 

Close to Sesriem small antelope Springbok just escape our car. 

 

This part is in little mist for me. I understand not a lot from net. Now it’s more clear. 

 

There are two gates in Sesriem. First – where our car was registered. Then camp site with restaurant, tiny swimming pool ext. and second gate to Dune park. In this buffer zone between gates exist Sesriem ( petrol station, camp, post and basta). Between the dates 200 meters. 

 

We are not allowed to stay after second gate at night and without  permit. Inside there is no camps or lodges more. As said to us. 

 

Ok. We paid 125 NAD ( 10 Euros) pp for overnight in camp and paid park entrance ( approx 7 Euros pp). 

 

We go inside. 

 

There is good asphalt road and dunes from left and right sides. They are closer and closer. The signs by the way kindly ask not turn from main road ( penalty  300 Euros).  The only dune to which we can approach is Dune 45. 

 

 

It’s 1 am now. It’s really hot. 

I am and Ivan start to climb from left side. It’s extremely difficult. And dune is as hot as pan for pancakes! After every step little portion of sand temperature 65-70C get into my boot. It’s hurt! Two ours friends starts from back side. But the guy didn’t put on boots at all. He starts in crocks. This is big mistake.  They turn back. 

 

I go up and up. It’s seems that now that’s the end. But next turn and again up. Bottle with water in backpack of Ivan. And he is invisible for me. I wait him. My head pulsing.  It’s strange, but Ivan is not here yet. 

I go up again and wait for him. I would like to drink little bit)

After 10 minutes I turned and go back. My boots filled by hot sand with every step. Skin around the upper part of boot Begin hurt. Here is Ivan. We are going  dawn. 

 

And follow to Sossusvlei again. 

Last 5 km are allowed only to. 4×4. There is a sign that 30000 NAD ( 3000 USD) penalty  will be presented to person on the sedan  vehicle. 

 

We are in  jeeps. Not in the best, but jeeps. So we passed this 5 km without any difficulty. Don’t stop in the sand. The main rule.

At the end of road we pass little bit deeper to right side. There is big rest place. Here we go by foot on ridge of dune. This slope is firm and in 10 minutes we are all sit on the ridge. But this is not Dead Vlei, Where is it?

 

Two persons show us direction. Dead Vlei  was just before our last turn. From left side. We need to make s short walk. 

 

This walk is extremely beautiful. With waves of dunes and antelopes. 

 

Then Dead Vlei  appeared. It’s the symphony of colors. And very japaness picture. Dunes around are terracotta and yellow and Dead Vlei  is milky color. On this lake there are ancient black  trees. This is picture. 

 

I get inside the picture . Like Alice in wonderland. And I was presented by the herd of orixs which very slow passed near my friend and turned to  me. I approached to them very close. And they didn’t afraid of me. 

 

Nobody want to overnight in dunes. 

So, we returned to campsite. Dunes in sunset  light were mostly red color. Springboks were everywhere. Ostrich were asleep. 

 

The gates to buffer zone were still opened. We get inside. 

 

Day 3.  Naukluf Zebra Mountain Park.

 

This night was cold for us again. 

 

I found in Solitaire Cheetah Foundation.  So we follow to Solitaire. The road was perfect. A lot of lodges around. 

 

Solitaire consist of lodge, toilet, bakery and primitive food market. Here is also Cheetah Foundation. It’s pity, but all feeding, game drive ext. are fully booked. 

But bakery is available. With tea. And a lot of ground speed squirrels and orange mongooses playing around. 

 

Ok. I also know about Nuakluf Zebra Mountain Park with awesome one -way road. We ride there. Not far away ( for Namibia).  

 

Entrance to Zebra park is through the mountains with beautiful bold trees. 

In office staff said us that this road not exist any more for cars. It’s destroyed. Now only trekking passes are in this park. 

 

We paid 80 NAD pp (8 USD) and get to camp. Nice place. And it’s also possible to make a walk into mountains and swim in natural pools. 

We did this small trek (2,5 km one way). The pools are small with water 21  C. 

We were warning not left any thing in camp because of baboons. 

 

Day 4.  Kuiseb River. And Canyon

 

Today we want to pass near Kuiseb River. 

In the morning there were zebras in park and big kudus jumping across the road. 

 

Approaching Kuiseb Canyon mountains became with black strips and huge ravines. This mountains have special name Gramadoela. 

View point to Canyon was full of tourists. 

 

After 20 km ( approx) we turn left to Homeb and Zebra Pan. This road is very abandon. Zebra Pan is artificial waterhole. Herd of zebras and different kind of antelopes were all around. By the way we saw also old mines. The road is gravel and not bad. From the left side pink dunes came more close to road. 

 

We descent to Homeb through mountains. This point is dead-end. 

Very poor houses of locals are here. And also camp site. No people. Only one aborigine  with domestic goats. Near Homeb is Kuiseb river with note- No entry to vehicles. Anyway there were tracks on it. 

 

We returned little bit and turned to Gobabeb. The road along the Kuiseb river is perfect gravel. No other cars. No people. Only few small villages with houses made from plastic. 

 

We arrived to Swacopmund to Sea Gull Camp. Now it’s Tiger Reef Camp. And here we are the only visitors. 100 Euros for 2 cars, 8 people, 2 nights. Near camp is terrace restaurant. Cheap and with perfect cuisine. Just on sea shore and near Swakop river with numerous flamingo. 

 

After dinner we came to found The Tug restaurant for tomorrow party. It was in 500 m. Full of people. Prices 3 times up. No fresh air. Reservation is obligatory. On jetty there is another restaurant. Picture the same – overcrowded and overpriced. No. We will take our dinner birthday party in our terrase tiger reef restaurant. 

 

 

Day 5.  Swakop.  Seals and dunes.

 

Night was cold again. And from midnight mist came into the tent. Inside all is wet now. 

 

I waked up in full mist. 

 

At 7 -00 car pick up us to make combo trip – kayaking with seals and jeep safari to Sandwich Harbor and to dunes. 

 

We follow to Walwis Bay. This place is charming. With long promenade and small houses. A lot of flamingo live here. 

 

Our excursion is 130 Euros pp. 

 

With kayaks we are going somewhere. May be one hour. Between salt factory fields. Namibia has three main points of export – diamonds, uran and salt. 

 

Now we are near Pelican Point. I don’t know how it’s possible find this way ourselves. Small colonies of seals in the shore. And black backed jackals are also here. They eat small wick  babies of seals. 

 

In few minutes we received waterproof pants and jackets and double kayaks. We are in quite sea. And groups if seals with babies are just in few meters. Seals jump near kayaks, curiously look on us. This is real pleasure to swim with seals! The water is 16 C. It means that now it’s warm water. Temperature in Swacop constant all year round. And temperature of ocean is between 12-18C   Never more.  

 

Second part of trip is off road drive near ocean in another car (4 persons in each car). First we get to sandy part between ocean and huge dunes. The tide is low now. But we must be in hurry. Soon the tide starts. 

 

In Sandwich lagoon we received one of the best lunches in my life – oysters with Champagne and salads. We also ascent on the nearest dune. Not so hard as to Dune 45. 

 

We turned back and then get into dunes. There it was like you tube dune drive! Really cool! It more scared look on someone slipping down the dune then to be in the car. You also can hear the roaring of disturbed dune. Jackals live around. In every depression there is water in the depth of 50 sm. and animals know about this. And can dig the hole. Orix is national animal of Namibia and he can stay in desert 4 days without water!

 

So. This trip was more then wonderful!!!  Also one guide Niko told us about road to Messum River and Uhab Phino Camp. I was not sure in this road but he was there many times and gave us information. 

 

Day 6.  Swakop. Ballooning. Cape cross. 

 

In the morning we have two groups. One came to ocean fishing. They tried to catch Golden Shark. And they did this! They catch 5 fishes and release them. The two biggest were about 70 kilos each!

 

And we made ballooning. We expected ballooning in Naukluf desert. But the wind was strong and from shore to ocean. Not our wind. Pilot worried and release small balloons. We get inland. It was so big mist that visibility was no more then 10 m. After 40(!) km the mist disappeared. 

 

The flight was not long. Basket was small. For 8 persons. My head was directly under gas Cylinder. It was hot in head. Pilot nervous all time. And in descending cry us to hide inside basket all parts of ours bodies. 

 

That’s all. 

 

We abandon Swakop and follow to Cape Cross. 

 

The road on Coast of Skeletons now is good quality without any surprices. The ocean is pretty far away. 

 

In Hanties Bay we tried to buy the book with GPS dots of Messum River and Crater. In vain. All is close. 

 

We arrived to Cape Cross before sunset. The lodge was full (100 usd pp). And camp was 100 USD for all 8 persons. 

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