Sri Lanca by bicycle. Rart 3. The South. january – 2013
Дата 25 March 2013

 

Part 3. 

 

Near the ocean. 

 

Morning. Birds sing songs. We ate our breakfast and also yogurt which I bought by the way. This is local yogurt   in ceramic jars. Very very testy!

 

Morning was not lucky- one camera dyed and then broken luggage holder. Long repair. And sunshine with humid. We dreamed about rain…

 

 And long way to Kirinda with mango, coconuts, huge wild Varans size of crocodiles. 

10 km before Kirinda hurricane came. It was rain and wind. And even chilly!

 

So, we decide not to wait but follow. It was right decision. 

 

Our friend found nice hotel with very beautiful sandy beach. Around were stones. Nice. 

 

We received big terrace with 10 beds under Mosquito  nets. And table for dinner. Quite expensive.  Smth like 12 usd pp without meal. But no choose. 

 

It was difficult to speak with owner. She understand only Italian. Her daughter was better in English. We asked for jeeps for salary in Jala park.  She was so good in English that gave us 5(!) jeeps for 8(!) persons! It was big misunderstanding. Drivers asked for compensation. No. She bring us 2 eggs for 11 persons. I right personally 2egg pp! Wow…

 

The rain was non stop all night and was also in the morning. 

 

Jala park is touristic place. Before entrance we saw more animals then inside. Really. Inside we’re 3 elephants.  2 – far away and one very close. 

 

We returned to hotel. Rain didn’t stop. We swam in ocean. Then I fount oysters just on the rocks. They were not bad but difficult to obtain them. 

 

Our rest day finished with big dinner. Owner prepared fish. But it was over grilled and dry. Not good. 

 

Next day we hope to pass only 20 km and found new place on ocean. It was big mistake in distance. All around were birds. Thousand of birds. Multicolor, big, small, everywhere. Not far away was Bundala Bird Sanctuary and I wanted cross it. But not all wanted the same. It was my dream and it left with me. 

 

After few hours we discover our mistake and understand that we need to make at least 70 km. it was hot!!!! And humid!!! Reality was much sad – we made 80 km….

 

We arrived to Rekawa completely dead. All want to stop and immediately.  I left all on the road and with my friend ride to find place for overnight. It was not far away. Two German people propose us villa. Personal villa with two entrances, not finished swimming pool, condition and hot water. And just 20 m from the beach! We very lucky! And also happy and decided stay here two nights. 

 

The place was really unique. Long inhabitant beach. Only very few guest house hidden in jungle. And small village at the end of beach. To the other side beach was endless. One thing was bad – big waves near the shore. They do not allow to make good swimming. 

 

During full day we relaxed, swim, made a promenade and eat. We were happy!

 

And then next day came. We wanted to stop somewhere after 30 km in the bay. It was stupid thing. No way inside the bay. Or there were jungles, or houses. With bicycles it was impossible. 

 

With big difficult we found small guest house near the road in Dikwella. But it was not so bad. It’s inner part was oceanview  with  huge green lawn, palms and big long beach. It was quiet there and beautiful. And here was one of the most intelligent and smart owners on the island! 

 

Next day we need to make  our last riding- to Mirissa. Here we wanted to finish the trip, because many people said that after the beach will be overcrowded. 

 

The day was sunny and hot. We start to dying and wish really only one thing – the rain. 

The road like a ribbon follow the beach, sometimes it’s get little bit inside the country and we loose the ocean. 

 

And here is Mirissa. Hotels, people, hotels, people. One person on bike asked if we need lodging he has a house. After description we understand that it’s 1 km from the ocean and with 2 rooms for 8 people. There were only 6 beds. And the price WAS. 

Next all houses and hotels were fully booked. No places. 

I also ducked in another house. It was like after Civil War- dirty, old, unprepared. Real slam. Owner said me very quiet that we can paid him only 8 usd per person…  Better to sleep on the beach. 

 

We again returned to beginning of Mirissa. We noted there hotel with not finished territory. Yes. It was half empty and it was nice oceanview, tiny pass to ocean and owner who was very helpful for us 

 

It became our last place in Sri Lanka. 

For camping, may be Mirissa was the best place, but in only one case- if you find the pass to the Ocean. All houses, hotels stay side by side without any empty place. And this is a problem. 

For us it was the finish of our journey. And last days we planned to be in normal place. So, here we are. 

 

In the morning we went to see Blue Whales. Mirissa, according to the sources one of the places Where you can observe this biggest whales. We had cheap but slowly boat. It followed approximately 20 km ahead. Now we were near the big cargo ship way. They were strictly in line, one by one, 3-5 miles between them. And soon whales appeared. They where 200-300 m far away from us. Just their black rubber backs. They glimpse on the sun. And then water Fontaine.  Usually, if whale show his tail it’s mean that he will dive into the depth and nobody will see him during some period. That day we saw beautiful big tails. They slowly dived with their master. We were happy. 

 

Near the hotel was small shop with fresh fish. We stopped here to buy it. It’s strange but locals prepare dry and untested fish. We wanted to do this by ourselves. 

 

We were hungry. So we bought a lot – calamari, prawns, tree types of fish. Day before we bought small fish and salted it. Now it was ready and waited us in fridge. Then I visited local market and choose vegetables and greens. I asked is it for salad? Is it for soup? Because I know here only carrot, potato and garlic) 

 

And then we all together started to prepare our main dinner in the  hotels. kitchen.  Locals were astonished. They cannot understand, why salted fish we cut and put on sandwiches, why we boil all kind of fish with greens and vegetables and why we fry  prawns just in pan with oil and curry. 

 

We proposed to them our meal. No. They don’t want. 

 

We ate on big terrace with ocean near us and ravens waited for dinner. Dinner also waited two dogs. 

We cannot move more. 

 

Our trip now had only two small parts – get to our boxes to Negombo and get to airport. 

 

We made 600 km from north to south. We met a lot of nice people and only one ugly  disgusting person, we saw jungle temples and world heritage, we were all time together and still were good friends)

 

We had been here 18 full days and spent 750 usd each for all excluding international ticket. 

 

It was perfect new experience and we like it! 

 

 

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