Part 1.

 

In flooding. 

 

During the last tree month I visited regularly  bike shop. I need more and more details and different things which can help us during long trip on Sri Lanka.  

And more. I need big boxes to pack our bicycles. Three. And more for friends. 

 

And the Main Day come. 

We started our packing. 

It possible according to airport rules have one peace of luggage 30 kg. and 10 kg of hand luggage.  The weight of bike with silicone saddle, luggage holder and spare cameras 23 kilo. And we need add tents, sleeping bags, our gear and a lot of very useful things. 

 

It was awful. 

First one we packed one hour. 

Second and third much more quicker. 

 

That’s all. 

 

We are 6 persons. 

Two more wait us in Dubai. They will join us. 

 

Our plan is simple. Arrive to Negombo. Then left somewhere our paper boxes ( hide them till our departure date) and follow by transfer to Annuradhapura. 

 

In advance I found guest house in Anuradhapura. And owner promise me to send a bus Toyota Coastal to pick up us. It was really great idea. It works!

 

In airport we change money. 500 usd per person. And bought telephone cards. Payments for local calls is just nothing and international are cheap. 

 

Our boxes we left in hotel New Rest House. It was old colonial hotel with huge hall and dirty columns. We didn’t know yet that this hotel was luxury before, many years ago. And even queen Elizabeth rest here in room 7 with ocean view. But it was before. 

Manager promised to keep our boxes till the day of our departure. We also booked two rooms. 

 

The way to Anuradhapura 180 km. just nothing. But with Sri Lanka traffic it’s smth as 5-6 hours. 

 

Our bus was quite big. The price was more then reasonable- 150 usd. Other persons proposed incredible ( Russian agency asked 1200 usd for such a trip!) 

 

Drops of rain fall on front window . First ones but not last. 

 

Before departure there were news from Sri Lanka  about abnormal flood. News said that all northern territories are in trouble. There are homeless people and refuge camps made by government. Also Korea, Japan and India help Sri Lanka. 

 

We arrived late and were served by hot tea. It was nice small guest house operated by sister and brother. Our rooms were with conditions and fans. Conditions didn’t work. Humidity was 100%. It was heavy rain. 

 

The rain was during all night. 

 

In the morning we collect our bikes. We really didn’t know what to do. It was hot and rainy. What to put on? Does we need to start our journey? What to do? Wait or not until  the rain stops?

 

The decision came. We will go anyway. But we will put on only simple cloth. They will be wet any way – from swear or from rain. 

 

So. Lets go. 

Owners propose us a guide. He was a student. Also arrive by bicycle with big umbrella. We need a guide because main road in Anuradhapura were closed – they became a rivers. This guide had such a bed English that we cannot understand what about he talking. After two hours he asked me: do you speak English? I had no words to answer him….

 

It was perfect day between the ancient dagobas and old temples. Entrance fee on territory was quite big (25 usd) and I paid in dollars. Locals accept them well and it’s better pay in usd then in rupees. 

There were not a lot of tourists because of rains. 

 

By the way back we made big shopping in supermarket. Fresh fish and king prawns we decided prepare by ourselves in the guest house kitchen. It was great idea!!

And fruits are very cheap and testy. Especially mango and pineapples. 

 

So. After huge dinner we repack for next day long trip. 

We wanted to rich Habarana. From this point we can go either to Polonnaruwa or Sigira. 

It was our next question. 

 

Rain was all night. Dirty roads in Sri Lanka have amazing color – bright orange. And your legs also became spotted orange. It’s funny). Monkey jump, birds sing songs. And big mango trees are full with fruits. Squirrels try mango and throw them  on earth. I picked up them, pilled and we ate them. Testy)

 

First two hours it was not rainy. We tried to get out from city. Every person show us another direction. After one hour we took our GPS and galaxy note books to understand what to do. GPS in Sri Lanka completely useless device. The map is somewhere and you also somewhere. Only Google maps can save you and show right way of your trek. Only! No more choose!

 

And then the rain starts again. Heavy but warm. We passed rise fields, full with different birds.

 All in water. A lot of water. Ocean of water. Then we decided to wait till rain stops. We waited for hours. Nothing. The rain. Then we start again. 

Fields, birds, wet monkeys, people waving us. We made 67 km and arrive to Habarana in dark. All hotels were full. No place for us. No place for our tents – again ocean of water. 

 

And we stopped for dinner. It was good idea. Completely wet and tired we waited for rise and curry. Guys sat in tuk-tuk and found hotel just near the corner. 

 

The rise was served on plastic plates with peace of plastic bag ( they do not need to wash the plate after). And napkins were made from newspapers. We ate a lot and after get to the comfortable pension. 

 

From the first days we have wet cloth. We put them on fan and turn in on. At morning you can receive your cloth in more or less good condition. 

 

Gecko made their chok chok. 

We paid 20 usd pp with breakfast. Not so bad. 

 

In the morning it was surprise – sun shining!!!

We decided to go directly to Sigiria. Nobody knows about the road to Pollonaruwa – if it still exist and do not transfer into deep river. 

 

The sun brings new problem – humid hot. It was impossible. We passed jungle road wet with swear. There were special mechanical thing to protect fields from elephant s – just rope with empty cans. If elephant touch it – cans will do loud sound and scared elephant will run away. 

 

The road was beautiful. Sometime it was passes inside the jungle. I wanted turn in but vain. 

 

Ok. Here is way to Sigiria and here – to another big hill with Buddha temple. We turned. No tourists. Quiet. Beauty. We paid 200 rupees pp to entry. And started to climb. One person decided  to guard our bikes. After he said that locals do not recommend left unattended bicycles or smth else. 

 

Stone steps laid up and up. Ancient and covered with moss. Near the top was Buddha who rest. He turn his face to the unlimited jungle forest with white clouds. No more people around. And rain. Again heavy rain.  

But this place is unforgettable. 

 

In Buddha cave we saw frescoes of aspars ( the same are in Sigiria).  

 

Charming and sacred place. 

 

Next – Sigiria. Thousand of tourists, overcrowded.    Yes. This is miracle and architectural wander. But we need to stay in line, one by one to get the summit. It was stunned there. But overcrowded again.  The price for this place was also high -30 usd pp. 

 

As we finish our excursion we follow direction to Dambulla. But not by the main road. We choose small roads inside the jungle. 

 

Near Sigiria it was tiny river. And sign “wash station for elephants”. Young female lies inside the river and some locals washed  her with pieces of coconut. Of course, we joined them! I don’t know exactly who receive more fun – elephant or we are!). We had been completely happy!

 

 

Then it was small accident. My husband broke the chain on his bicycle. It was in the village. Locals approach. In 10 min they repair the chain. After two weeks of journey we discovered that they repair chain wrong way. 

 

We follow our way. Not far from Dambulla on map was big lake Kandalama.  We decided overnight there. 

 

The only one big hotel was overpriced. It became dark. After half of hour it will be completely dark. And as usual it was no place for tents. 

Big dumb appears. It was high water and road. And small sign Tourist guest house. We turned. 

 

This place was charming. Not expensive and with friendly staff. They started to prepare evening meal- rise, chicken and curry.  

 

I entered the bathroom.  The water was not hot. Just little bit warm. But it was! Then I turn the tap. Huge green frog snailed from the hole near the tap. Then sea weeds came with water. No matter! We have bed, shower and it will be meal!

 

We wait till late evening. We were very, very hungry and tiered. And then it comes- one sow with rise, then another and curry more and more. Non stop. Kitchen staff crowded near our table. Actually, our family ate less rise during year then I personally ate this evening!!! It was impossible tasty!!! Impossible! The best in my life. 

 

After I asked the cuisiner What they do with rise. He told me. A lot of ingredients and rise))). I know recipe now))

 

We dead in our beds with antimosquito nets. Till morning.  We made only 35 km but were completely dead. 

 

It was sunny. It was surprise!

 

The dumb finished with very narrow bridge. Big buses and lorries usually use edge of dumb in this place.  But with high water it was dangerous. Water turned into waterfall and buses with scared passengers slowly cross this obstacle. We just monitored this performance from bridge. 

 

And then follow to Dambulla. 

 

Huge golden Buddha overhang the city. The line of monks follow him. And flowers everywhere. And monkeys. We ascent the hill with its numerous caves and Buddha sculptures. Strange, but this place remained  me one old monastery in Crimea. 

 

It was hot day. Locals sell mango fruits with salt. Nice. But monkey robbed me and escaped with mango. 

 

In Dambulla two of us decide go to Candy by car. So, we are only 6 now. 

 

The road was with normal asphalt pavement but with heavy traffic.  The smells around were not good. 

 

It was long way. 

 

I mentioned old sign to ancient Hindu temple. Naranga. Only 1,5 km side way. 

 

When you are with bicycle, you need to think about your pass in side. Hills, dirty road, way back. It can be 2 additional hours. But we turned. 

And found real pearl! 

 

After village it was big park near the river. It was emerald green around. And it were ancient Hindu temple and small round dagoba near. On pillar was varan. Small one. And no persons around. Only staff. We asked permission put on tents here. And they allowed. But only near the lake. It was wet there. And clouds of mosquitoes  buzz around. No. We refused and again followed our way. 

 

 

The road was curving and uphill. Not all time little bit. Then it became more strenuous.  In 50 km was city Matale. 

 

We found big beautiful hotel. SPREADE  PALACE  HOTEL. Manager after long hesitation proposed more or less good price with morning coffee. We agreed. 

 

Condition for this price was switched off, but we had hot water and big bed. We were the only clients of hotel. 

 

We ordered coffee for 6 am. Then stepped down to pay for overnight. On reception were only two boys. They hesitated. And then said that gates are closed and we cannot move from hotel (!). We stunned. Why????  Later, later… When????

I went to kitchen and found another gates. They were opened. We left money and took our bicycles to the kitchen gates. But they were  closed and boys disappeared!!! We were in jail!!!!

In 30min appears the owner. If you think that he appears with apologizing – no! He cry like a stupid monkey!! He cry that we didn’t pay!! For coffee!! But it was included…  And no bill, no personal in hotel, nothing! He was rude. And say he will taught us how to travel in Sri Lanka. We mentioned that we are his guests. And he cry, cry like master on his slaves. We asked paper with stamp” paid”.  He made it 30 min later. 

He was the rudest person on Sri Lanka, dishonest and false.  And his Palace was real dirty jail!

REMEMBER – SPREADE  PALACE  HOTEL – NEVER  COME HERE!!!!!

 

But our way was to Candy. Here our friends wait for us in the hotel with lake view.