Introduction

 

We spent 4 month to prepare this trip.

12 persons, 3 catamarans Ducky.

This is very ambitious project of our friend Sergiy Korotiyeyev to make trip in biggest fjord of the world Scoresbysund Fjord.

 

We found gas for cooking in Constable Point ( airport CNP of our final destination), gasoline for our engines in airport CNP. Every catamaran have 5hp engine.

 

All food was bought inKievand putted into big cans. Then we sent cargo with main loads. Totall600 kg

 

The most expensive parts of trip

 

Tickets Kiev- Amsterdam-Copenhagen-Reykjavik- Kulusuk – Constable Point ( Ittokkoortoormiit) -2000 USDpp

Drop on to start point and drop off from finish point from and to CNP by speedy boat -1000 usd pp

 

Cargo of catamarans both ways and food one way – 800 USDpp

 

700 USDfood, buses, restaurants inReykjavik, hotel inReykjavik, Blue Laguna ext.

 

Start – 7.08.2012

Finish -25.08. 2012

 

Start of catamaran trip 9.08.2012

Finish of catamaran trip 20.08.2012

 

Also 8 days were spent fromKievto start point (3 days) and return (5 days).

 

 

Day 1.

7.08.2012

Flight to Reykjavik.

 

Long way and very late arrival.

 

 

 

Day 2.

8.08.2012

Flight to Greenland, Constable Pynt (CNP), Ittokkoortoormiit.

 

Again long day.

Our flight with 1 stop in Kulusuk. It’s 1000km south of our CNP. Visibility is perfect. Pilot invited us to his cabin one by one to showGreenland. Below us huge icebergs flow. They have long trace on water and in low clouds.

CNP welcome us with sunny and warm evening.

Person, who sold us gasoline , provided us an autocar. We load all our staff and rich big sandbar, where all boats debarked.

 

Ole, Inuit, who will drop on us inside Scoresbysund fjord arrived later.

 

 

 

Day 3.

9th of august.

CNP – Sydcap

190 km

 

Morning we load all staff on two open boats and one more or less protected from wind. 3+3+6(persons).

Open boats with powerful engines need 6 hours. We are overload. We need 11 hours.

for those, who were on open boat it was bad experience- deadly cold and completely wet. In fjord there were big waves.

When we rich our destination I am and two another persons were completely sick with sea sickness.

Ole- Inuit and owner of boat, told us that we cannot catch any fish. May be only Arctic Char. Bat only with net. Not more then 4 fish per night.

Sydcap is beautiful peninsula with small wooden house. The night is white. I don’t know what time we get onto the bed. From the window we saw all time movida de icebergs.

 

 

 

 

Day 4.

10 of august.

Sydkap – Stormpynt (Nordvestfjord ).

15 km

 

This morning all men start to construct catamarans.

Women had a walk on nearby. We found a lot of mushrooms, blueberry, and a special grass for salad. So, we had perfect breakfast-dinner.

 

Start of our adventure was at 2p.m.

From evening we had the net near the seashore. Now we took it out. 3 Arctic Char!! For fish soup!!

 

We move direction Nordvest fjord. There were huge icebergs by the way. The first one crashed just near first catamaran. It was very loud sound. Next one was in form of apsida in the church. The prey can be last, if we go inside….

We made numerous photos and moved from one giant to another.

At evening we stopped for overnight in S. It were two rivers there. Fisherman start their attempts. One small fish. Then I catch little bigger one.

Our Admiral put on nets.

 

At 10pm the sun was so bright that I was forded to put on sunglasses. It was perfect weather. The pressure was 1017 hp.

 

 

Day 5.

11  of August

Stormpynt  

Nordvestfjord.

60 кm.

 

O don’t know is it morning or midday. Or midnight.

But I waked up. Sunny day. Really warm. May be 13-15Con sun.

The picture from the tent abnormal- fjord, giant icebergs and fairy mountains with glaciers.

In the net were 4 more Chars.

We ate fish soup. And made quick herring from the rest. It was so delicious!!!

This day on the water was beautiful and long. We rounded near every big icebergs. It took time.

I begin my own classification of icebergs.

The fjord was wider or narrower. But the places for camping only those, marked on the map.

We turned to big additional fjord. Big family of musked oxes slowly went away. They really didn’t scare us.

Camping place was filled with wood. So we made fire. There were berries all over us, some mushrooms.

We lost our net and the axe.

Bad news.

But we have second net.

Good news!

The night wasn’t cold.

 

 

 

Day 6.

12 of august

Nordvestfjord. – Stormpynt.

60 km

 

Early morning I tried to found musked oxes. They slept200 mhigher in mountains. But do not afraid me. Suddenly big snow white hear appears20 mahead. He watched me. I was in black, looks like musked ox. And came closer and closer. Only when I was10 mfrom hear, he jumped on his back legs. But not very fast.

The slope was covered with blueberry. I ran to camp. It wasn’t cold and I took morning shower in fjord.

This place was our point of return. If we follow more inside Nordvestfjord, we will nit have time to turn roundMilneLand.

So, after discussion, we began to return.

The wind as usual was opposite. Icebergs crashed one after one. It was sunny day. Pressure rich impossible point 1028.

Temperature of water in fjord was10C. It was because current. ColdEast Greenlandcurrent is follow from North to South near East coast. And warm current came from Sgpizbergen. It comes under cold current and get inside fjords. Especially Scoresbysund Fjord. Then it escape from bottom to top and made special climate. More warm then near ocean.

Small seal wait for us near our camp. Huge icebergManhattanwaved not far away. This evening we had special program – life of icebergs. They tried to turn round and made a lot of noise.

 

 

Day 7

13 august.

Stormpynt – Jyttes Havn (Bjorneoer islands)

35 km

 

It was windy and sunny morning.

Our firs attempt to start fall dawn. We crashed rul. But we had spare.

Fjord in this part not very wide and we hope that after cape it will not be so windy. It was really so.

After turn to Ofjord again appears Crown type icebergs. They were like big square with side may be 300-400 m. First catamaran came closer and part of iceberg fall dawn. Small pieces of ice painfully kick our friends. They just escaped big wave.

We came closer to Bjorener island and 4 brothers. They were left side. More or less it was possible found place there for camping. But right side it were completely vertical mountains with sharp tops. Those in first row were 700-900 mhigh. Second row not less the 1200-1500 m. And there also begin Ice Cap of Greenland. Impossible beauty! Picture !

But as usual – headwind.

Just before camping place in Jyttes Havn our gasoline finished. Bad luck! And Atlantik took us by rope. It were vertical waves in fjord.

Anchor stop appears Deep bay with calm water. But it was not river there. So we picked up ice from fjord. It was very warm. May be15C. And sunny. We made camping. Men came for fishing. And I went to the top of the hill. From there perfect view on the famous Brothers opened. And icebergs follow the pass. On the top there were few small lakes with fresh water. So we Do not need melt ice.

May be because of melted water we all have awful dryness in the mouth. We want drink more and more. Especially in the evening. Bug bowl with soup and 2-3 caps with tea. But no toilet at night. And face In the morning looks like not beautiful.

Fishermen returned with empty hands. No halibut, no cod. Nothing.

In this camping we have no mushrooms. But a lot of our salad grass. And then I catched bottom fish. Not big. But when I caught a fish  understand that we will have fish soup. Fishermen helped me. Together we had approximately 30 fishes.

This island is full of birds – wild gooses, wild ducks, seagulls.

Pressure still high. 1020 hp.

 

Day 8.

14 august.

Jyttes Havn (Bjorneoer islands)- Terrassepynt (Rypefjord)

 

95 km.

 

After long cup of coffee, big of fish soup, at 1:30 we start our longest day in Ofjord. Left side will be big islandMilneLand. Right side -mainlandofGreenland.

It will not be any place for camping by the way. According to map.

The width of fjord approximately 5-7 km. Wind is not our direction. So, we use engines. Our speed 7-8 kmper hour. The waves are not very big, but vertical. Not soft and long. Fjord is full of icebergs. Mountains are completely vertical. Glaciers fall dawn from 900-1300 minto fjord. In case of emergency- no place for stop. If the weather will change and it will be emergency- we will have big problems.

Temperature of water9,5 C. Temperature outside 8,5C.

Big glaciers which are flow look likes tiramisu. Famous glacier Corridoren crossMilneLandand like huge river came to fjord. We follow our direction hour by hour.

May be at 9 pm we approach island Storo and went right side. Soon it’s turn to Rypefjord. Soon, means after 2,5 hours. The turn is near, but it means nothing.

Water in Rypefjord calm. It’s evening now. The colors are pink and cold. At the end of Rypefjord huge glacier. May be1,5 kmwide. Right side must be camping place. In map approximately15 kmmore. For us – 2 hours more. It became really cold. We are 11 hours in catamarans. Tea gone. Whisky also.

Our stop was at 2:30 am. We were completely dead and cold. Icy air came from glacier. We had been on water 13 hours.

Just before debarkation water became shallow and pure. I saw chain of track of small paws. May be arctic fox tried catch fish.

Small river200 metersaside.

We put on our tents and dead inside.

 

Day 9.

15 august

Terrassepynt (Rypefjord) – Storo island

20 km.

 

Morning wasn’t easy.

It was sunny but cold because of glacier not far away.

All my friends were slowly and tied.

Coffee and porridge with jam.

Then big casserole with compot ( water, dry apples and apricots). We all have abnormal thirst. All time. I think it’s because melted water and dry air inGreenland.

It’s seems that to get to glacier is nonsense. But we fallow more the one hour. Right side ate grass big musked oxes.

We stay right side from glacier. It has high 10-40 m. But fjord was empty of icebergs. That’s mean that thus glacier may be move very very slowly.

4 people just made small walk on glacier. Of course without harness and crampons.

Temperature of water near glacier was3 C.

We turn our way. 1,5 hours ahead big river with pure water. No wind. We use our engine in economy regime.

Before escape from Rypefjord small aside wind happens. We put on sails. And then turn right to Ofjord again. Storo island was left side. Ofjord was full of big icebergs.

The wind became stronger. We switch off engine and start sailing. Suddenly wind stopped. Ahead was moving iceberg. And as usual, engine didn’t start to work. We tried to escape iceberg. Two another catamarans were1 kmahead. I found mirror. The day was sunny. And became blinked to friends. It’s work. One catamaran turn round and took us by rope.

Next anchor stop was on island Sortee.

It was additional30 km.

But to our happiness. First catamaran found perfect camping place just before cap and stay there.

Everywhere were mushrooms, blueberries, musked oxes. Seal curiously follow us.

We had this night in very beautiful place.

 

 

Day 10.

16 august.

Islands storo.

Ascending.

 

This morning we decided ascending as high as possible.

We started 11 am.

Panoramically views were magnificent – fjords, mountains, icebergs, ice cap ofGreenland, glaciers. All way up – pure streams, blueberries and green unnatural color moss.

Ice cap starts from1380 m.

But it was little rocky part more.

In1450 mwe were forced to stop – it was only ice ahead.

This was one of the most beautiful places in my life!

We made few calls to boatmen Ole, trying to organize our way back from islandDenmark. May be Ole understand us. He was able to do this only 20th of august and only for 5000 USD. We have no choose – no time to return and no fuel. We need to agree.

We returned to camp in the evening. Persons who left there prepare huge dinner! Soup, mushrooms, salad.

It were 4 arctic chars in nets.

We made14,5 kmin 10 hours.

And get 1450m.

The top of island1700 m. But we cannot did this without special equipment.

 

 

 

Day 11

17 august.

Island Storo – ankervig.

65 km

 

It’s a ship! – someone said early in the morning. May be night talk in sleeping.

After hour again – he is gone!

I opened the tent.

Yes. Big white ship escaping to cape.

I took binocular. It was sign

Academy Sergey Vavilov- famous and legendary Russian scientific ship.

All people wake up to look on miracle. During past days we saw 2 airplanes. And nothing nobody more.

Before we eat and collect our camp, Academy Vavilov escape.

We Start our trip through Rodefjord.

After 2 hours we saw white ship far away near wall ofMilneLandnear island.

We took radio and asked them.

And they answered to us!

They had bad ice conditions and cannot speak with us.

We waited in drift 30-40 min. Vavilov start to disembark tourists to island we took our way.

This part was very special- 5 huge glaciers came in one narrow area. All glaciers growing and produce a lot of ice and icebergs. The place like this unique.

I look in binocular – before us was wall of icebergs. No pass. But my more experienced friend said that it’s only seemed like this.

And they were right!

We move slowly 2,5 hours between small, big and very big pieces of ice. Huge icebergs stayed near walls.

I wasn’t scared. It was interesting and very new experience.

Actually temperature of water in this part was6C.

Then we follow to Ankervig.

We hadn’t be there alone.

In the bay left side were tents and a lot of boats.

We stayed right side. And put on net.

The place was in shadow. It was beautiful and cold. Pressure high 1016 hp.

 

 

 

Day 12

18 august

Ankervig – Fenbugt (Fonfjord).

50 km

 

Sunny warm morning!

4 chars in net!

We have fish soup, grilled fish, smoked and fried. Mmmmm..!

We are very short if gasoline. If it will not be our wind we can stop before point of meeting with Ole.

After hour boat with Inuit’s came to us. We asked about gasoline. They promised ask and return to us.

After two hours our English speak catamaran follow direction Inuit camp. But the boat with inuits didn’t allow us to come close. They stop us before and ask do not disturb commune. Inuites sell us gasoline for 4 USD per liter (25 liters), big pack of meat of narval ( may be 20 kilos) and 3 chars. We need to pay something like 200 USD. Not cheap. But we need gasoline and were happy to try narval.

Our next 40km were very fast. We get at least into aero tube with strong wind. We switch off engine completely. May be first time during our adventure. Our speed get to20 kmper hour! The waves were vertical and not comfortable. But we put on all sails.

Fondfjord was with icebergs but not big and not so often. Both sides were again vertical and without camping sites.

We rich Fenbugt quickly.

It was beautiful but now shadow place. Huge firewood  werejust on the shore. Men sawed it on two pieces and we made big fire. It’s names nodiya and it can fire for two or more days with such a log. This piece came may be from Russian Sibirea with currents.

Guys prepare narval meat. We made it grill. It was according to inuit suggestion. Not testy.

So we put meat with garlic on pan and add some lard. It was perfect! And really natural!

The valley was narrow. Even Iridium refused to work in such place. We tried to phone to Ole again to correct our drop on. Long work!

 

 

 

Day 13.

19 of August.

Fenbugt (Fonfjord)- Mudderbugt (Milne Land).

55km

 

Our start was early. May be at 10 am.

It was again sunny, windy in fjord and high pressure-1015 hp.

Wind stopped quickly.

5 kmbeforeDenmarkisland. Waves also finished. We again switch on engines. But now we have plenty if gasoline and no trouble about point of finish.

We turned left side beforeDenmark.

This island at firs was unpleasant for us, then it’s became more and more flat, with places for stop and camping. Water was calm.

It was beautiful nature here, but not so dangerous and dramatic like before. It looks likeNorwayorSwedenIslands.

Then we get into silence and peaceful Scoresbysund Fjord. We follow Mudderbught. Milne land in this part have big flat areas and a lot of rivers. In one place we catch sandbar100 mfrom the shore! It was impossible! A lot of birds cry around. May here were fishes!

Mudderbught hadn’t nice place both for boat anchoring and our camping. So we pass it and stop little bit after in huge and long sandy beach. It was our last campsite.

We took our catamarans from water and next 3 hours deconstructed and packed them.

Ole promised to be in the evening. But he didn’t come. We have low battery on Iridium. 10 min left and no time to get ourselves to CNP.

 

 

 

Day 14

20 august

Mudderbught-CNP

180 km

11 hours.

 

Morning. Sunny. But some clouds appears.

No trace of Ole. We don’t know really what to do. We have not a lot of options.

Coffe Again coffe

At 9:30 we see speedy boat. We start to wave hand and boat turn to shore.

Inuit said that he came pick up us and Ole will be in 30 min. We are happy!

Just in the morning Eduard foundhot springs. 30 min away. Now we have no time to go there.

Ole arrived really in 30 min. He slept near the cape because don’t want disturb us!

We load our staff.

Our way back start.

3 persons get by speedy boat. Another 9 get by slow boat.

It was long trip back. Till late evening.

We tired and want hot tea.

We return to the same place we start. And the weather became another. Wind was cold and strong. North wind.

 

 

 

Day 15

20tg of August

Empty day in CNP

 

It was windy and cold. All day long. We didn’t want to stay in tent. Our flight back toReykjavikonly next day.

We went to main building of CNP airport. It was warm there. Big table, few sofas and possibility receive tea and coffee.

Evening we ordered dinner buffet. It was only 22 USD pp and was huge and very very delicious!!!

 

And we also receive information about cargo our catamarans toKiev. The best, cheapest and fastest way was DHL fromReykjavik.

 

Next day we start our long trip to home.

 

So. We made500 kminside Scoresbysund fjord.

We haven’t any drop of rain.

We were completely happy!

 

As I calculate later all our trip.

All together with cargo, air tickets, food, boat trip and 3 overnights inReykjavik( with Blue Laguna) was 4500 USD pp