To Guatemala and El Salvador by motorcycles. january – 2012
Дата 17 January 2012

Coast to coast

Motobike trip in Guatemala.

Antigua – Meixo Viejo- Antigua.

Day 1.

140 km

It was really our first trip on bikes. I was scared. Scared of all – people, city, cars, mountains. But it was time to go. Just yesterday we paid for private tour and today we are 8 persons. 56 USD Catours need to return to us. But. You know. After))

I also asked David about our visas to Guatemala. I asked 26.12. He said – no. C-4 stamp from airport completely enough.

Ok. Our trip start. The road like a snake go up and up. Behind us is volcano Agua. Beautiful. Then down and up. And all time turns. All time.

Then we need to cross the autobahn. It’s awful! We waited may be 5 minutes. And crossed the road. Chicken buses are really small chickens to compare with our transport. People are more or less slow and each in each own line. Not too bad!

We turned to muddy clay road. Dirty road, as they said. I fill myself in panic. I am third and three persons follow me. If I fall down they will crash me! I go forward slow. Very slow. The degree of road too big for me!

But all successful!! I am really happy!

The weather is warm. But we are in altitude. I am in thermo, fleece, jeans, glows and full protected. Catours don’t provide back protection to tourists. But guides, very professional, both in back protection. It’s not big money to buy full protection competently with prices…

In two hours we get to Meixco Viejo. 50Q per person. Very abandon and mystical place. As usual nobody know who, why, when and so on. Just perfect place. And pyramids with steps. And view all around. Looks like you are in gigantic crater. It’s hot. Really.

At 1.15 pm start go back.

My first fall down was just near lunch area. Chris turn his bike, I push brake very strong. That’s all. I was on the road. Police slowly follow near, asking am I wrights? Yes.

After dinner ( chicken in local cafe just 2 USD), we ride to Antigua. The road was in awful condition. But not to bike. So, when car before me stopped suddenly, I wasn’t prepared. Again, i used my hand brake and I am on the road. This time without right mirror.

My third fall down was just near junction. I stay , think and fall down on Cris’s bike! It was suddenly for him also…

We returned in Antigua. I wasn’t really tiered. It was cool!

Of course, when I asked about money, I realize, that price for this small crashed mirror was – yes! 56USD!

We went to our hotel Mi Casa. It has pretty nice jardinière. That’s all. The rest is worth then cheap hostel – smell, no furniture in the room, all facilities shared. I can understand a lot… But with this price per day for tour……

Antigua- Hot springs- Antigua

Day 2.

60 km.

As Chris said, today will be day of relax.

We took a breakfast. For our money. In itinerary all breakfast included. But Catours “forgot” about this. In Antigua good breakfast 30 USD for two.

Les then in one hour we arrived to the only one hot springs near Antigua. Hot water came from Pacaya volcano.

We are so unlucky! During many years lava flow free from Pacayas crater. People came and watch. 27.05.2010 it was one huge explosion. Ash covered the city in 10sm. Airport stopped his work for 10 days. Then the rains come. 7 days it was rain. It s became national catastrophe! And then it’s all stops.

Thin this day there is no more lava on Pacaya. Only white fumaroles. Pity….

Guatemala also built special electric station working on this thermal water. They sell electricity to El Salvador.

Ok. In our hot springs there were 5 pools with different temperature of water ( 100 Q per person just pool and snooze). And girl who every 5-10 min say you where to put on your body. We drink berry snooze in pool. It was so nice! We just stayed in pools like huge frogs in mud…

The road back wad short. I was scared of long hill down and up but it was ok.

We returned to our charming Antigua late afternoon. I fill myself much better on bike. But not very sure.

In Antugua more then 60 schools for study Spanish! Just 4-5 USD per hour with personal teacher! And they also propose free salsa lessons. And there is possibility to rent a house. I know nothing about this! Pity….

We received our travel backpacks. They are as old as Catours. Zippers work badly. If they stop work during tour David may be ask for new bags…. He has our deposit….We can put very small amount of luggage inside. So, we need to left all our staff in Antigua. And our card not work in ATM! This is much worth….

Antigua – Las Lisas.

Day 3.

140 km.

We start early. At 8am. And follow between volcanoes Agua snd Fuego. Nice pass. Turn head right side – Fuego smokes, turn left side – huge Agua.

My speed now is sometime 75-80 km per hour! Crazy for me! The villages flight away! There is not big traffic. And all time jungle, volcanoes. It’s became warmer and warmer.

I asked Chris, does he use GPS or smth else. No. There is no maps with all roads and they all are very approximately. So, Chris drive with David and remember the road. If they want to make new trip, they need to explore all around. And keep in mind all turns and so on. Chris sometime make marks in his phone about conditions, gasoline, prices ext.

I want eat, cofe, toilet and small gym. We eat and drink nothing from our start. We are 2 hours nonstop.

Then we stop and took small typical breakfast. Just near on the fire women cooked two turtles. I am not happy to see this.

Two omelets with beans and coffee ( we will name this coffee) 40 Q.

The road is in good condition. But closer to ocean it’s became really bad – with bumps, holes, mud and clay. But not for a long time.

At 11am we are in Las Lisas. This is small village near mangrove river. River follow near ocean. We left our bikes in parking place (15 Q per bike) and keep the boat (150 Q both ways). Of course, not included.

Our hotel is on the island. Around are pelicans and cranes. And warm ocean. No more people. Very simple and friendly hotel. With hammocks on terrace and ocean view. All time waves coming on dark sand. And birds sing songs. So quiet!

So nice! We stayed in water more then one hour. And then took two huge portions of civiche with shrimps! Delicious! Really!

And of course, big groups of pelicans. They are learning to flight one by one.

Evening fall down. It’s became more quite. Small Mosquitoes arriving. But not a lot of. We took dinner – fish soup and fish in souce. With salads and hibiscus lemonade. Very delicious! But pretty expensive.

Las Lisas – Coatepeque Lake

152 km

Day 4.

I didn’t found strength to swim early in the morning. So, before breakfast I just made a small walk to the mouth of channel. It wad full of pelicans. They have breakfast!

At 8:45 after our breakfast we start our trip to El Salvador.

To border was smth like 40 km. We cross the border easy and quickly. In El Salvador the road was even better then in Guatemala.

In small village we just stop for cup of coffee. Trying to find toilet we entered to garden. It wasn’t garden. It was huge cemetery in the center of village and in the cafe! Hope they prepare coffee from bottled water…

After half of hour we have new problem. Ivan catch the big nail. Now we are in autobahn waiting for Chris. He need to do smth with tire. It’s hot. Really.

After 1,5 hours the problem was solved and we again follow to the Lake. The road is going more and more up. Now we are on the edge of the crater. The view down is brilliant – blue lake turned with green mountains. As i understand, half part of lake belongs to very rich persons.

Then we stopped for a lunch. Restaurant served meat and fish. And civichie. Huge portions! 10USD big one! Very testy! All, view and restaurant like in Crimea.

When we turned to the road which follow to our hotel, I had no more doubts – we are at home, here is Crimea with it’s ugly small carton houses, like a slums, dirty rooms, and poor facilities. All was so dirty! We had room for 4 persons, with dirty linens, dusty, with 2 wooden smth, which mean wardrobe. Bath was outside. Of course, without anything. Water also. If someone full the pool, there were no water in bath. I found the tap quickly.

But our hotel(?), hostel(?), den(?), slum(?) has perfect personal entrance to the lake. Unfortunately near restaurant and speedy boat station. Ok. For us all was easy – we saw not Salvadorans, but Ukrainians. We saw not crater lake but our Crimea.

We didn’t eat dinner. Just drunk two glasses of fresh juses.

This slam is One of the worst places to overnight. May be for David it’s pleasure put on clients into the most ugly hotels in Central America? ( Las Lisas is exertion).

Coatepeque – Zakapa ( Guatemala)

315 km

Day 5.

Without any breakfast or coffee we start very early. And after few km we get to dirty road. It was also very rocky. And this huge rocks lays in different positions. It was up and down all time. We get to 2400 m as well. And all time with this awful rocks. Once I even get into big pig. She lies on the ground and slept. Time pass and I became fill myself much better.

When we get to normal road I completely adopted. We took traditional Salvadorian breakfast – popusas with beans and cheese and coffee. For two persons 2.75 USD. Not a lot of!

May be in one hour more we had been near Salvador- Honduras border. The road was all time up and up. The view was really very nice. I cannot do photos- my hands were busy all time.

We passed Salvador border in 20 min. But on Hoduras border it was surprise. They said we need visas! Officially I read We do NOT need visas. But it was mentioned that none Honduras officers know about this. It was smth like remark opposite Ukraine – country type B, need consular visas.

From Kiev I receive information that for us – no visas. But very depend of human factor on board. So I decided that David who often cross borders with clients know situation better.

When I asked David about Honduras visas he said C-4, which everyone receive on entrance to Guatemala is completely enough. He didn’t phone to embassy or do smth like that. He was sure he know Everything.

After one hour became clear – we cannot pass the border. Bribe also do not work.

We turn 180 degrees and follow to border with Guatemala. Next two hours we covered 112 km. Last 40 km were on completely new perfect road. We were like in movie – black asphalt and yellow strips! And sunset colors of high altitude savanna. Again no photos….

We crossed the border very quickly. And follow ahead. Our plans changed. We decided to visit by the way another ruins and follow to Rio Doulche. We cannot get to Copan. This is because of David. We had time to make visas. He said – we not need!

Now we can spent in Rio two night and get to Livingston by boat.

After border the road became worth. Not bad, but in Salvador it was perfect! We pass 80 km more. It’s became dark. And we stop to overnight in touristic hotel in Zacapa. This day we had personally bathroom! It was like luxury! It’s sometime tristy understand that each our day costs 420 USD and we live in slums. English monopoly. We understand – David is very short of money…

Zacapa-Rio Dulche.

162 km

Day 6.

No morning cofe in this city!

At 8.10 we went away direction Rio Dulche. It was traffic on the road. The grass was grin, small hills around and mountains below.

Our firs stop was to take typical breakfast. 20Q per person – beans, 2 fried eggs, coffee. At the backyard it was died persons and police who did smth with him…

We follow our way.

After 100 km from Zacapa we turned to Quirigua ruins. Entrance 80Q. Beautiful green lawn with huge curved Stells and big zoomorphic stones. Old city is completely in humid jungles. acropolis is small.

We saw many cities of Maya, but never like this. It was also excavated old city ( all dates 600-700 AD). But he was more or less usual.

We made total 162 km and get to Rio Dulche. Our hotel is hidden in mangrove and long bridge follow to small houses and reception, which are just near the water. This hotel is really charming! We like it very much! It’s detail again -we live on second flore and out facilities on the first , but really, this hotel is Jem in Devids crown!

Ivan again do smth with wheel- it’s again flat as table.

We rented a boat (200. Q) and went to Castello of San Fillippo. By the way turned to restaurant. The food is perfect but served impossible ling time. May be 1,5 hours. And not cheap. Castello is looks like very very small. But inside there are s lot of rooms. Entrance to island is for payment.

At evening Chris tried to do smth with the wheel. He was completely wet…

Rio Dulche – Livingston

Day 7.

Lazy.

At 6am Cris escape. As I understand he went to by new tires. Unfortunately….

We took breakfast.

Then boat.

First stop was near hot tube coming to river from the shore. Tube with very hot sulfur! And it was hot on surface and cold at bottom. On the bottom there were fishes.

All river is with small bays where hidden big and small beautiful ocean boats and yachts. All houses are simple – dry grass and glass. Charming! A lot of birds along the shores – pelicans, cormorants, sea gulls.

When we came to ocean the water was still grey color, not blue. I hope to see white beaches. No. All was very simple, with greens, palms and any place for swimming.

We get to 7 Altars. This is river, coming from mountains thought natural pools and frying into ocean. The water for me was cold – I had sore throat.

We also get to Livingstone – city full of Garifundas – half Indians half black. They are lazy, looks like drunk and have typical food Tapados Garifundas – seafood soup made on coco milk. Perfect thing!

There are huge amount of pelicans near the shores. They seat on old boat and rest.

We returned to hotel to early. So, may be book?

Book and then cinema about apes and humans. With Americans. Funny))

Rio Doulche – Semuc Chamsey (Lanquin)

168 km

Day 8.

Today was hard day.

But morning was funny – Chris told to Ivan that he is short of money! He spent 100 USD for gasoline during all trip and we ate only 2 times for 10 USD (2 persons!). Out other breakfasts are 2-3 USD! And hotels like may be 10 USD per night maximum. They wanted make all tour in 200 USD! Ha-Ha! I see such an ugly company first in my life! Chris is nice motorbiker, but his problems really not ours problems!

So, when we start , the rain starts also. Really heavy rain. I put on my rainproof jucket and pants. Rain blind my eyes. After one hour we stopped near small destroyed house to take breakfast. Coffee was nice and meal typical.

Good road finished after 50 km. Bumps and holes, dirty road and gravel, dust and mud. But it was nothing to compare with mountain road.

Cris prevent not to stop when we go up. It was sometime awful- big grade, stones, rocks, mud, water and curvy turns. And then it became down. And up again. And rain. Stop rain but mud again. And never stop, because you fall down. And sometimes cars and buses opposite direction. And we have very few space for ourselves !

When we pass villages children cry “gringo!”. We saw small pigs with big ears and laces. And the only staff delivered everywhere in the country is Coca-Cola. Huge lorries with armed guard. They bring Cola and take out empty bottles.

It’s interesting thing on the road- big rocks cross the road. Locals asked 1,5 USD just for their work on the road. If bi, you know… Of course, we paid. But next two crosses successfully escape.

We passed almost 165km. I tiered. Suddenly big long vehicle appears from the turn. Trying to get aside I loose control and bike fall down. My second mirror cracked. Again right. It was just mirror with simple yellow color opposite side. I proposed to buy new one on repair station. Answer was no. Only in Antigua. I think only in Davids store with very special price…. Special for his clients.

So we arrived to charming place. If not mention that it was just on the road, the hotel consist of many beautiful small wooden houses. The slope run down to river. And another, opposite slope was full of green grass and trees. River runs fast.

It was even Internet here (5Q) per hour. Exchange rate was very special 1:7 and for cards 10%added. Our quetzales finished.

We signed up for trip to Shemuc tomorrow (50USD) and evening dinner (110Q).

Our room has nice view and hammock.

My bottom soar.

It was smth incredible during dinner buffet – may be 80 persons! And then they all had the disco!

Semuc Chamsey.

Day 9.

Morning was awful – just watching yesterday riding in mountains I completely destroyed all photos. So stupid! Stupid!

Ok. We are going to Semuc. 12 persons in one lorry. 9km standing in up and down road.

In Semuc we put on all staff on big box, took candela and just in swimming suits entered in cave. It was amazing tunnel with fresh water. Sometime shallow. Sometime we need to swim. And charming ceiling and walls around! With stalactites, holes and different figures. Then we get up by stairs, then down. Swim again and enter to our first traffic jam – near waterfall with rope. You need to go up on it. I ascent by stairs… Again tunnel. Again swim and second jam – place with pool where uou can jamp from big rock. Then turn around.

After cave were jumping to river from rope and bridge. After very steeply ascent to mirador and Semuc Cfamsey- natural pools with green blue cristal clear water! Unreal! Unbelievable! And small fish all around.

Main river go under this pools. Semuc in Indian language means underground river.

Really unique place in the world!

Lanquin ( Semuc Champsey) -Antigua

310 km

Day 10.

Our last day of trip.

I waked up early. Mounts were covered with clouds. Birds sing their morning songs.

Not hot yet.

At 7:00 our bikes start the journey. First 15 km were in bad road. But around were beautiful round mountains covered with trees. Misty lies in valleys.

Then we entered to the road. Our speed increase. It’s became really chilly.

After 2 hours when I died go to toilet and wanted to drink smth Chris stops in Coban. It was nice cafeteria and we took breakfast there. Chris has no more money. So we paid for ourselves.

Then it was again long road in mountains and in valley, with bridges, big turns and dirty roads. Closer to Antigua it were more and more cars. We overcross them on bad roads – to our bikes worth road was better then good))

On one turn, I remember this place, because here I fall down first day from motorcycle, Ivan also made not successful turn. I saw him lying just in the middle of road.

So, at 5pm we had been in office in Antigua.

Good news – we are really happe to finish alive this beautiful trip!

Chris is real specialist in Guatemala – Salvador roads.

We like this adventure very much!

There were few bad news

- Ivan fall down and plastic on mirror has scratches. It costs 20$. Bar was 2 mm more left – additional 100Q.

- my mirror cost 30$

- David was absent and didn’t prepare our deposit for returning

- nobody proposed to us T- shirts, mentioned in tour

I asked money for 3 breakfasts- received them ( calculation no more then 5$ per person per breakfast).

I asked money for non existing ruins in Tazumal – receive refuse. Company can change itinerary.

I asked about our non entrance to Honduras – received answer that it’s all our problems.

We waited 1 hour till Chris bring money. David was so buisy that cannot even bring them to office. Small details can really spoil big game!

We returned to Casa Florencia. It was late evening. After arrive Slava and Fedir and we went to restaurant.

We are very proud of our C2C tour!

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