I would like to propose the small and short version of our beautiful trip to Mustang.

Our flight was with two connections – Istanbul and Delhi. It was not so comfortable to be happy((.

So, next day evening we arrived Kathmandu and after dinner completely dead in our rooms.

July and August not the best time for visit Kathmandu. It is hot , humid and rainy. Its monsoon season. But compare with our city Kiev- much better))

To do Mustang trekking- it’s not so bad- not cold, not hot, without rains. Literature said, that amount of rains in Mustang so small, that this Kingfom became like a high mountain desert.

Kathmandu. 22.07.2011

We are third time in this charming city. Touristic program here is more or less standard. We visited Durbar Square, Biggest Stupa Bouddhanakh,  sacred Temple Svayabouddhanakh and Hindu burning place Pashupatinakh.

We are lucky- second time see small alive goddess Kumary. Now she is very small girl- 6 years old. She waited for nodding of her teachers to approach to window, stay for one minute sadly looking at us and disappeared inside. She was in rich red and gold clothes. She will be Goddess till her first blood.

In Svayabouddhanakh our friends Pasha and Toma found new treatment from headache- big cooper bowls were putted on their heads and after few strong strikes they became completely healthy.

Our evening finished with great dinner organized for us by Tilak – my old friend and perfect chief of touristic agency.  The dinner was in old fashion building, belonged before to kings prior. Dinner was perfect with local dances and songs.

23.07.2011

Way to Pokhara.

Today we start our trip. By car we are going to Pokhara. This city is 200 km north- west of Kathmandu. By car it is more then 6 hours driving. Pokhara is on 300 m altitude. So here is much more hot and humid. I can say- impossible hot and humid.

Pokhara has one long street for tourists with restaurants and shops. There you can buy all equipment you need by leading firms of the world. The prices are 5-20 dollars per cloth. There are no glasses and boots here. Two shops sell beautiful cotton clothes. There is one kiosk with completely fresh juices.

Now it’s not season for trekking. So in Pokhara are only those who go to Mustang or Muktinakh. .  The main season start from the end of September.

In hotel we have Internet and nice dinner.

24.07.2011

Flight Pokhara- Jomsom.

20 min

Trekking Jimsom- Kagbeni.

3 hours. 8 km. 300 m ascent.

You cannot planning you trip with flights in Nepal very strictly. Weather is changeable here.

So, when we arrived 6am to airport – smog made impossible our flight to Jomsom.  We stay in big terrace waiting for flight. At 8.30 clouds little bit gone away and we disembark to this small airtaxi. It has 16 places. All occupied. Unfortunately the clouds closed Annapurna and Dhaulagiri and we see nothing. The worth place in this flight  is Calopani. It’s narrow. Strictly between Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri. With small hill in the center just couple of thousand meters… So, Calopani MUST be clear!!

Our flight was only 20 min.

Jomsom located in 2800 m and is inside Mustang.

We waited 2 hours during which our donkeys were loaded.

Trekking to Kagbeni not hard, only 3 hours. It is a trip along river Kali Gandaki. There are some interesting places there- you can find strange ancient stones ( ancient charcoal ) -saligrams with ammonites inside. They are sacred and belong to God Vishnu. Every Hindu family need to keep 5 saligrams at home.

Kagbeni is small village just on turn of river, with green terraces and old monastery near the river bank.

Our campsite was with mountain view. Diner was prepared and served in guesthouse. Perfect!

After dinner we visited monastery. It is 700 year old. Just before the entrance I found 4 big carved stones. There was the image of the same man with violin, sacred umbrella, stupa and sword. Technique of this carving is very professional. The view from top is breathtaking- all Kali Gandaki river is visible.

In Kagbebi there is also perfect cafe with real Italian coffee and cappuccino, Germany bakery and clay sculpture of man who guard the village.

Evening time starts rain.

25.07.2011

Kagbeni- Chele

18km. 500m ascending.

8 hours.

All night was rain and very warm. One of our friends Tanya has altitude illness with stomack problems and high fewer.

After early breakfast we went to Check Point and guides show our permissions.

Our trekking along the river starts. It was long way little bit up and down. After 10am it became hot. All mountains very beautiful colors and forms, like columns, pillars, stalactites and stalagmites. We cannot stop to astonish! This mountains were without any forest or greens. Just soft kind of stones, sand, clay and rocks inside.  Not far away from Kagbeni was small narrow canyon. We follow it. Inside was dark and beautiful.

First village Tangbe by the way has many multicolor chortens with river and mountain view. Nice!

In next village we have a dinner in guesthouse. Our cook prepare it for us.

Just near this village is fast and wide  river without any bridge. We crossed it bared legs- painful, cold, deep and sometime scared. But I found nice and big ammonite!! This is great place for searching!

Chele is not far away from this place. May be one hour by foot. Here is no good road to Lo Mantang. It is possible to get from Jomdom to capital but with problems and if it really necessary ( but not in case if someone ill….)

To get to Chele you need cross Kali Gandaki. There is bridge. Also in this place are a  lot of saligrams. This place is also remarkable because one part of river come thought natural tunnel and burst into main river. Water is dark color because of clay.

There Were very few tourists going to Lo Mantang or returning back.

Our ill friend with fewer was completely dead and reached village with great difficult.

Our campsite was located with mountain view.

Each house has a lot of logs on the roof. This mean the wealthy of family. Next reason – to burn the dead family members.  There are no cemeteries in mountains. Some tribes, highly influented by Bon religion still put their dead to the top of the mountains and feed the griffons.

We took hot ( not really very hot, just normal) shower. Everywhere it is 100-150 Rs per person (1,5-2 USD) not depending where you sleep.

26.07.2011

Chele- Tamangaon

18km. 1200m ascending.

10 hours.

The night was not really cold. It was rainy. And foxes cried not far away from tents.

Morning Tanya fill herself much better.

We start our long and hard day.

First it was big, long and beautiful ascend to the top of mountain. We follow the side and near was huge gorge. All mules, horses, porters and donkeys moved the same road. Kali Gandaki escape and we entered to the inner part.

After lunch steep descends and ascends began. We crossed mountains one by one all time ascending higher and higher. In some places rivers were wide because of the rains and we took out our shoes to cross them. The water was awful cold!

The road was still scenery with strange mountains and canyons far away. But all ranges- Annapurna and Dhaulagiri were in clouds.

Our last little bit up near Tamangaon completely killed us.

Tamangaon was very small village with two houses at 3800m. The water supply exist as in any village. No electricity. And no connection as well. View from campsite to ruins of old king palace and huge mountain wall near Kali Gandaki.

Our cook is God!

Evening was cold.

27.07.2011

Tamangaon-Tsarang

22km. 1000 m ascending.

10 hours.

Night rain as usual.

Wake up was in clouds. Visibility zero.

We start to ascent in mist. A lot of flowers around. Nice smells of grass.

Half way in Chami village must be lunch. But it is more then 500 m descending. Mountains became like Gaudi churches and building. All like great symphony in stone! Completely desert around us.

Ghami (3500m) located in green valley with terraces. There are many yellow and pink fields. Ghami surround with red and creamy pillared mountains with caves. In ancient time people lived in this caves. But not now. Sometime they are used like storage rooms.

It was long descending. In Ghami our personal stay in guesthouse with a big garden with blossom flowers. We eat our lunch and follow the trail.

First we passed longest in Mustang and Nepal Mani Wall. May be one kilometer long. This is real wall with curved stones. Each stone has mantra Om Mani Padme Hum.

We turn inside mountains to our pass. We need to get again 4000 m.

The main canyon ran left side with breathtaking sculptured red slopes.

Main entrance to Tsarang through the big stupa. We never see this kind any where.

Tsarang(3900m)  is quite big village. It fences made from round white stones.  There are tall trees and small near house gardens with potato, cabbage, green salad ext.

When we arrived an accident happened in village- because rains it was great fluid and damn was swept out. So, all village was cut out of water. People with tanks pick up water just from river.

Our tents stay in guesthouse garden. We quickly change our clothes and went to Gompa. As usual, Buddhists monastery was aside of village and dominated in area. It was colored in red. Clouds came down and rain starts. Nice view to Kali Gandaki and mountains open from Gompas roof.

Near monastery was half ruined house- local museum with biggest library in Mustang. Here there were also dried hands of architect  who built this palace and few pieces of ancient guns.

Rain became heavy and we run to our tents.

Evening meal was delicious as usual.

28.07.2011

Tsarang- Lo Mantang

15 km. 450m ascent

5 hours.

Today we need to rich our final destination. We are all in good mind and health.

There were no big ascends. The road follow near small river, then turn and get into the hill where was main pass to Lo Mantang. From the top open big area, green with yellow mustard spots and pink barley spots.  In the center stay white houses and red Gompas of the capital.

Actually, geographically Upper Mustang which begins from Kagbeni has the strange form of finger, entered to Tibet. Now Tibet is China territory. And from Lo Mantang it is only 18 km to the border. This summer Tibet is closed to foreigners. Many of Tibetans ran to Nepal and India after China invasion.  And this process continue today.

Mustang is a kingdom. It has some names today as Forbidden Kingdom and Restricted Area. But it is not real kingdom. There IS a king and queen there. They are only one king and queen in Nepal. But they have no power today. Just only traditional.

King is old. He is 79 years. He is Colonel and has governmental salary. He stay in his palace in Lo Mantang and during winter time live in Kathmandu. He has two sons. One is dead now and this sadness made king and queen too sad.

So, after 40 min we entered the capital.

We as usual stay in campsite and took our lunch in guesthouse. Our cook every time prepared for us something very new and testy. It’s seems to me we cannot slim on this trekking…

We had free time afternoon. So we just walked down the streets, made a telephone call home (2 dollars per min), visited auverda medicine center (very poor and strange) and drink natural cappuccino in cafe. There we also bought the best saligrams we see.

After dinner  I asked our guide find the place to see movie. I read about this possibility. And he found! We were invited to kings nephew for film watching. Just 13 dollars for 6 of us. This strange cinema was in his house opposite kings palace. Nephew has big TV and DVD player. He proposed for us film “Himalayas” by French producer Jean Peeres. It was so strange to watch TV with locals! Nephew, his wife, our guide and another persons worried all time and comment the film. They all know places of filming- Restricted Area Dolpo. The main touristic trail also follow places marked in film. It was one of the most interesting films in my life!

Evening was cold and rainy as usual. Two big Tibetan mastiffs barked from the kings palace.

29.07.2011

Lo Mantang

This day starts from visiting big ancient Gompa. It is under American Foundation. When you buy ticket it is special page for donation. It is even some proposition for donations – 487 USD, 83USD or 1 dollar. This Gompa for boys only. We visited their morning prey and breakfast with ritual music.

Territory is clean, a lot of dormitories. Small boys stay in their classes and stady mantras all together.

In Lo Mantang there are also two famous Gompas with big amount of wall painting. It’s strictly forbidden make photos anywhere because monks afraid of anticwars from black marked. A lot of thing were stolen by the foreigners who entered Mustang.

Painting are very very beautiful and cover all walls in monasteries. They are now in good condition, because one Italian man from Rome during 13 years restaurate  them. He is professional restaurateur and now has helper – women from Umbria. She works here during 3 years. In monastery we see locals who prepare paints and wall. All paints make from natural stones. They are very expensive. It’s need to melt them in powder and add to special clue, made from leather and horns of animals. Italians bring all staff from Europe. They stay during half year in Lo Mantang and then ran back to home.

Afternoon we wait for audience in kings palace. Guide said that we need to bring small present. No ideas! But Italians suggest buy whisky or rum. Kings son likes it! So, in the shop we bought the best whisky and add pack of our Ukrainians sweets.

Entrance fee for kings palace 100 Rs. Approximately 1,5 USD. And everyone need to buy  white KATA for 35 Rs. All this sell kings relative. He also get us to the palace.

Palace is really old, dirty and half ruined. We ascent third floor by small stairs. After king secretary said how we need propose kata and when give our present.

We entered room. It was simple Tibetan room. Little bit more clean and with one commode more expensive then in another houses. Near the window sit old person in sport boots, woolen old sport hat. He was really old. We are one by one gave him katas. He said nothing.

Then secretary propose for us a tea. After we asked some questions but only thought secretary- king speaks only local language.

That’s why now we know, that king is very religious person and read and listen only religious music and literature. Every morning he walks around Lo Mantang and return for pray and breakfast. Dalai Lama never visited Mustang but king visited Dalai Lama 3 times. King do not remember any Ukrainians in his palace, but secretary remember))

After we made small shopping. Prices are enormous but drop down quickly.

In conclusion. Lo Mantang is very touristic place. I think, for me it was just return point.

Evening was rain.

30.07.2011

Lo Mantang – Ghambi

23km. 1000 m ascending. 1000m descending

10 hours

This morning we start earlier. The sky was in clouds. Little bit chilly.

Our way back was different with those we came here. More higher passes. First at 4290 m.

It was long day. First part till lunch just up up up then down.

After lunch we entered to the most beautiful part on the Earth. We descent between huge pillars and columns. Griffons flight over our heads. It was late afternoon and mountains became change their colors on orange and red. We cannot imagine that such a monumental beauty exist! Guide say that the name of this part is Real Mustang, Hidden Kingdom. Not a lot of tourists follow this way. Usually they return lower and cannot see this natural miracle. Thank to our guide Basu for this part of Mustang!

We sit for a long time just watching the mountains. Sky became clear and suddenly opened Annapurna Ridge. We see West and East Nilgiri and Annapurna. They were with vertical slopes covered with snow. The North Face. Awful dangerous and beautiful.

When we came to Ghambi it was only time to make our tents, take shower and dinner and dye in sleeping bag.

31.07.2011

Ghambi – Samar.

24km. 1000 m descent. 1000m ascent.

8 hours.

This day was also great.

We suppose to see in the morning again white mountains. But sky wasn’t clear.

We start our trekking. Again up and down. All day long. Afternoon became really hot and humid. We again cross rivers and huge steep slopes.

At the end of day we had been really dead. Tents stay in grove. Small waterfall made pleasant noise.

Rain starts again and wet our clothes.

It was hard day.

1.08.2011

Samar- Kagbeni

25km. 500m ascend. 1000m descend.

7 hours.

Morning we wake up in total mist.

We start as usual. It was not cold and after one hour became really warm.

Our descending was the same way we came here- long way in the narrow trail around the mountain down to Chele.

Near Chele is one of the best places to pick up saligrams. Pasha found big one with strip and presented me. I think- it will be something very special inside))

Then we follow the same way to Kagbeni. Really we were tiered and when blow strong wind afternoon – it’s became hard to move.

After Arriving to Kagbeni we decided, that this   city is a little Paris in Mustsng. We also went to check point to notice that we are here in Kahbeni.

All was done in time. Even one day shorter.

Next day we decided visit Mukhtinakh by jeep.

In our guesthouse we bought French vine Merlot ( it was there also Sauvignon) and peace of yak cheese.

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2.08.2011

Muktinakh- Jomsom

Jeep trip

It was little rainy at night.

At 8.00 we sit inside awful old Mahindra jeep and start our journey to Muktinakh. The road was unpaved ( gravel), without any fences, narrow and with numerous turns. Sometime I closed my eyes not to see our way up. Duration of this attraction approximately 1 hour and cost 80 dollars.

It was wet and rainy in Muktinakh. Holy city was dirty. No ANY good road. All hotels and restaurants looks like not finished and also dirty. We came to the main Hindu temple little bit up on the hill. In front of the main gates tree Hindu people sit and smoke light drugs. We entered temple complex.

Our friends Pasha and Toma made special ceremony- they wash themselves in 108 sources, then again swim in two special pools and only after that can enter inside the most sacred Hindu Temple.

We waited outside. Then we made a big mistake – started eat our dry meat. It was strictly forbidden!

We took diner in local restaurant. Yak meat, French onion soup and natural coffee. It was testy but expensive.

As a brief- I didn’t like this dirty uncomfortable village.

Our way back was the same road for strong people. More than 1 hour to Jomsom and costs 110 dollars. We pick up Getman with guide and they share with us price for jeep.

It was nothing to do in Jomsom and we return by foot to Kali Gandaki near village to pick up saligrams. It was very warm. Ivan broke more than 50 stones and found nothing. I found few pieces and one round fossil. The river near city was clear like operation hall in hospital. Any saligrams …. We need to go few km up the river but it was too late.

Evening we gave tipping to our guides, porters and cook. They baked big cake for us. I think we had one of the most experienced team with excellent cook and guide!

We are Waiting for tomorrow flight.

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3.08.2011

Jomsom

The night in hotel awful – mosquitoes and hot. No possibility to sleep.

We were ready to flight from 5.45am.

Kalopani was completely closed with clouds.

Nothing happen after 2…3…4 hours.

10.30 guide said us that all flights for today cancelled because of Kalopani.

Kalopani is interesting place. It is between Dhaulaghiri (8150m) and Nilgiri (7500m). But it has his own mountain 4000m. Distance between high mountains 38 km and gorge between them 5 km. The flight here possible only if it’s full visibility.

Nothing to do.

Stay all day in hotel.

For tomorrow we have 3 options.

-flight to Pokhara, if it will be flight

-ride by local bus down to Beni, but road is really very bad and scared

- make Jomsom Trek (60 km ) in 2 days to Beni

No more options….

4.08.2011

Jomsom-Pokhara-Kathmandu

Morning present to us much more clear weather then yesterday. At 6-30 I saw snowy top of Dhaulagiri.

At 7-30 first airplane arrived to Jomsom and we rushed to airport. Inside was great chaos. Tourists, porters, Hindu and all they want to flight away. We had second flight. I mentioned how our guide gave none to receive boarding passes. I think so…

After was security check. Many foreigners take real Mustang masterpieces and this clandestine must be stop.

The main thing during this check in was awful smell of dirty socks, trousers and t-shirts….

Also we noticed full time of arriving and departure. With embarkment and disembarkment it was 4 minutes!

As we calculated (20 min Jomsom-Pokhara, 20 min back and 5 min emb-disembakment) our airplane arrive after 45 min. 5 min after we took off the ground….

It was very beautiful and dangerous flight. Our small craft sometime was just 100-150 m from the mountains. It ducked around Kalopani small hill (4000 m) and follow to Pokhara. Right side we see Dhaulagiri. Left side appears Annapurna. Few min after airplane dived from hill and landed in Pokhara.

When we escape the craft we see famous Fish Tail. Main Himalaya Range starts from Ama Dablam – Fish Head and finish Fish Tail. Main altitude of thus beauty 3 meters below 7000m.

Then our program was in schedule- Pokhara- Kathmandu by badly paved road during 6 hours, hotel ANC perfect, but expensive diner.

I am died and need a sleep.

That’s all)))