How we tried to ascent Mont Blanc (4800m). Swiss – France. august – 2010
Дата 8 October 2010

Mont Blanc
Before you climb the Mont Blanc, you need to make a small acclimation. So it is necessary for the body,  not to convulsing on top. Perhaps, though smaller.
Brig (Switzerland) – a convenient place to start alpine trekks. From Visp valley in all directions crawl blind canyons, each with its beautiful mountains, glaciers and shelters. Thus, we have already visited the valley Tsinal, Turtman, Aletchgletcher and Zermatt with the Matterhorn, Simplon pass and pass St. Bernard.
This time we took a bus to Saas Fe. The driver, understandably, did not know where we need to go. We went in Saas Gryund. Observed  by the way wooden houses 400 years old. We needed a ski lift to the first station, then  reach the hutte Weissmieshutte. A little reflection, we decided that the challenge for us is too simple and, bypassing the ski lift, rushed up.
So. Lifting height 1550 – 2680 m was broken for 3 (!) Hours. That is not bad, given the mileage in the 9 km.
By the way we ate apples in the company with pink cows. All cows were similar to our dog Tida. And just the same way looked intoour eyes.

Appeared Marmots – huge fatty whether badgers, or someone else. Sufficiently lazy and not very timid. The fur is thick, thick butt. Beautiful.
Weissmieshutte surprised with the cost of  45  Euro per person  in room for 16 persons. Yes, Switzerland again the leader on pricing …. Well at least a place on the lower row.
We didn’t eat lunch and come to the Hohsaas . A little over an hour and we were 3,070 m
Good result for a single day 1500 m for four hours!
Alas, without Thomas, we cannot  move on  glaciers and snow – no one  know how to tie knots and to insure the two helpless sheep among the cracks … Therefore, we observe mourning of people chains, sprawling on all snow slopes.
Rosty at the top of the restaurant is perfect. We are lucky to eat two servings, and a salad and soup, and sweet rolls and a lot of tea. Prices brutal.
Weather, as it should in the mountains, has deteriorated. It was cold.
I managed to beg a cup of boiling water and took a shower. In truth, the Swiss wealth is rooted in thrift. True, in this house probably in the winter will not beg even snow. The toilet did not  have a soap!

I note once again – for the full 90 euro to a day without light, electricity, shower and toilet  three floors below!

Later, however, it became clear that there are selling hot and cold water. 1 and 3, euro, respectively.
The morning was more vague, with a slight drizzle. Immediately go away a desire to climb up on the nearby mountain. And the poverty of breakfasts not breathed into us fresh forces.
We went to a mysterious Almagelenalp along the mountains at an altitude of 2400-2700 m. There was long pass. Landscape has changed, we get to bottom of the gorge.
Closer to Almagel people  again began appear. The trail abruptly went down and we were dreaming about meat.
In Almagel still had to wait long for the bus and we went to Saas Fe. By the way we are sheltered in a lovely rustic restaurant with unearthly species and prices. The meat was just great!
Saas Fe is located at the deadlock  and  is a very prominent resort. At Winter and  at summer.

So, for the Mont Blank, we have prepared a little, made 30 km, rising to 1500 m and descended  the same  in two days.
Near the Brig was thermal source with bubbles. We sour  there 1,5 hours.
Then came Thomas and his brother and long time we had been threatened. All. Bad weather, closing  the train, the lack of beds, rocks, mudflows, sleepless nights and disgusting nasty French

So, no matter what, we’re going to Les Houches, Les Houches, which is located just outside Chamonix.
The road is infinitely pleased with beautiful views, climbers on the sheer walls, and then came an array of Mont Blanc and its set of needles (Aigue).
Driving past the lift platform on Augyu du Midi, happiness for the people –  waiting during at least 3,5 hours.
In Les Ville we sat on lift, and then the worm train  had to drop us to Eagle Nest (2372m). With our happiness, everything turned out as always – the French have founded under the glacier Bonasse plenty of water. The last time such a surprise was about 50 years ago and ended badly  - glacier water had broken and Shelemiah safely all around. Due to the horror of what happened earlier today, a worm does not go in  needed  point, but stops earlier in the Col du Mt. Lachat (2055m). It’s a shame …
More –  promised  to be cool,
After two days of training for races, we just took off to Refugo de Tete Rousse (3167m), doing three hours more than a kilometer in height and not less than 6-8 miles on very rough terrain. Around  - the grazing goats or sheep. Do not afraid of  people.


The crowd of people move in the same direction, which indicated truth information about overpopulation of  Refugio. Incidentally, one of hutte can simultaneously accommodate 74 people, and the second – 100, not including lying on the floor in the kitchen and in the corners.
In Refugio Tete Rouse gave us bold corner near the window on the floor, two mattresses and blankets. We feel ourselfs was like a kings! View from the window killed immediately!

After drinking a bucket of chocolate, we went to stick to the mountains. In front of us stood a huge stone mass with multiple lobbies. By coulouir periodically swept a huge stones. In the pauses in helmets rushed terrified tourists. It is here that we need to climb to the next Refugio Refuge du Gouter (3817m). And on the first run, we had to go the next day, then rest, and at night on the attack and further, how it goes.
All messed up the weather forecast. For two days he was a wonderful and warm, and then promised to all the fears of heaven and the mountain at the same time, including a thunderstorm.
Thus, the ascent we passed a 3-4 day hike in the campaign for one day without sleep ….
Dinner was served in three shifts – otherwise everyone would not fit …
Breakfast was scheduled for early, at 1 o’clock in the morning.
The meal was interrupted by a picture of sunset on which Ivan, for example, quite happy …
Sleep did not work – in the short period between dinner and breakfast, from 8 pm to 12-30 night, our room was going to, coughing, rustling, said. The stench was present continuously. Still we ran into the toilet.
In 1-45 we start. Full moon, warm (!), Advanced to the Refugio de Guter. Height – just over 700 meters. Once harnessed to the insurance and the rope, put a hat – a meeting with couloirs inevitable. In this place regularly kills someone. Especially at night. The ascent to the Refugio just straight up  by the rocks. Whose caring hands in  the worst places paved the ropes. Bleak picture – toss up and where it is infinitely high above our head shines Refugio. Very  far.
So we took the Olympic  temp and made all way in 2 hours. Unprecedented achievement!
While it was lunar, stellar and warm.

In Refugio we drink  water, and putted crampons for climbing. We had another 5 hours  to make next 1000 meters. And at the beginning – ascent  the mountain Dom de Gouter      (+500 m), and then to Mont Blanc itself another 500 meters in height. Near Refugio a lot of  tents. People have built around them protective snow walls and  dug  tents into the snow.


We went to a bunch of the glacier and began to climb. Front and behind the horizon stretched snake of  climbers with flashlights. A lot!
Suddenly, the visibility deteriorated. We are in a puffy cloud. Then start drizzle. Came the wind. The higher we went, the stronger was the wind. Visibility dropped to 5-7 meters. People start to return. All with the same news – on Dom de Gouter from Col du Dome – blows. Guide launched hard to get nervous.
People are increasingly turning. The combination of  four  people above us suddenly fell and went down. We all three jumped into the friendly side. Thank God, a bunch of time to stop …
We were almost on top of Dom. Above us were only the Polish. Another one came to the Cole and blew  out (we learned later). And now Ivan had a high altitude attack – all for science – the head, cough, vomiting. Now the situation is not even discussed. We immediately turned down. It was already bright day and we began to notice numerous cracks near the trails and slopes, flight away to infinity down. After an hour and a half  we came to Gouter. And then the clouds suddenly began to rise. Half an hour later – a miracle – no clouds
in the sky, but the strong wind and chill.


We are very pleased and happy
Yes, the summit is not reached, but so what?
At this morning on our route near Col  guide with customers, GPS and compass lost himself.
At this morning from Refugio Cosmic guide the client killed by glacier.
By one o’clock we crawled to the worm train, doing in one day (start at 13 pm and finish at 13 o’clock the next day) without sleep and rest about 30 km and 2200 meters up and then down again 2200 …
Tired ….
It was good, especially coffee

Прокомментировать