In the morning it became clear – we made something special and very complicated. From the balcony  glittered snowy top of Mount Ararat. Very large and distant. And we were there!

Leave Kurdistan.
At morning Zafer drove the big van.
We poured gasoline on a clandestine Iranian gas station. Almost  two times cheaper. Just out of cans. Nice.
Then we went to the palace of Ishak Pasha (Ishak Pasa Sarayi), built in the late 18th century, not far from Dogabuyazit.
The palace stands in a very picturesque place, on a ledge of rock. Behind it props huge jagged mountains and hidden among them the fortress.
Architectural palace consists of a building to benefit from the entire eastern variety.

We entered the palace, surrounded by a large fortress wall, through aivan. At the entrance stood a basalt sheep, presumably referring to the period of Urartu.
Next we got into a large courtyard, which are usually in a caravanserai. In the side aisles were placed lounges, and a prison guard. In one corner – a small fountain with two taps – one for  water, other for  milk. Milk, of course, was not.
The next court struck an abundance of stone carvings around windows, high aivans inputs and large, grave-typical pattern of burials  of Seljuk period.
From this courtyard we get to different rooms. They are all fully renovated, no furniture inside. The palace is completely empty. In each room between the windows must have a fireplace. Medium-sized dining room is designed in the spirit of the Roman columned hall, the library consists of a series of rooms with deep niches in the wall. Among the rooms have a private mosque with rich stone carving.
We went  to the rocks. There, local people gave in honor of the holiday picnic. Drawn from everywhere the smell of meat that we are greatly cheered. Slightly higher in the mountains was a “window” – a hole in the cliff, overlooking  to Ishak Pasha. Hole garded by young  Kurds, who helped sufferers get through the narrow crevice, mercilessly seizing women for all body as a fee.
The view was good.
The road beyond was strictly to Kars (Kars) airport for change the ticket and visit Ani .
The road was  excellent quality and totally deserted. Drived 200 miles, we did not find a place to eat. A couple of times we moved straight to Armenia. In these places, the boundary is the river Arax.
Tickets from Kars to Istanbul had been changed to another date as it is surprisingly easy and even without a surcharge.
Challenged in  Kars, we bought a  Kuzu, vegetables, cheese in sheep’s clothing, pots and went to Ani.
Prices for all are small – a kilo of Kuzu an average of 14 euros,

Picture is the same – 50 km excellent track without a single car, resting in the village and the ruins of Ani. Deadlock.

We were not allowed to go down  to the river and we put a tent for overnight in front of the ancient city.
Sergei baked in the trunk of a car soup  with Kuzu, I crumbled salad. Came the local children, congratulated with  the holiday, kissed our  hands and stole in the same instant a knife. Victor, quickly looked into boys pockets . Knife seized, ears kicked and given a kick up to backside.
Even in total darkness, we ate soup with meat and salad.
Throughout the night the dogs barked and yelled donkeys.
Ani . The second capital of Armenia.
The morning was cloudy and cool. For us  come  the geese, and  I picked up one and he did not resist.

We opened the cheese in sheep’s clothing. Delicious.
The ancient city of Ani was the capital of Armenia since 961 years. Next in his stories were absolutely everything – the Seljuks, Georgians, Turks, and yet countless conquerors. About Genocide nowhere a single word. Armenians in this part of Turkey, the word taboo.
The city stood on a high plateau in the bend of the Araks. It had the double wall with many gates. Actually the city has prospered since it is located on the Silk Road.
We went through the Lion Gate, and got on a huge field with picturesque ruins of ancient churches. Everywhere were the remains of the foundations. In its heyday in the city lived up to 100,000 people.
Remained virtually untouched only the Church of St. George, built in the 11 century right on the ledge of a high river bank. Slender building is decorated with plants and animals ornaments. Inside is even a mural.

Another church.

It is partially destroyed, later converted into a mosque. When we went into it, then gasped in unison – huge columns of pink and brown tuff flew up to where the sky shone, instead of a dome.
From another Christian church  of 11 centuries remained exactly half – as recently as 53 years ago, the dome was struck by lightning and the floor of the building collapsed.
The first Seljuk mosque in Anatolia, too, perched right over a cliff. They are the windows offer a view of Armenia))
Amazing architectural decisions interior dome almost all the surviving buildings.
Locals offered to buy the coin “that” era, without specifying which one. 50 euros. Among us  no collectors))
At  dinner was soup with Kuzu. Fabulous!
The way back is always shorter and 30 minutes  after we reached the airport.
At the airport, Boris found the bursting of ayran in his backpack, and amuse others.
Sea of Marmara. The northern part.
Marmara Deniz.
Car, a favorite FIAT-Doblo awaited us at the airport. Price – 43 euros per night. Well, well.
We drove from the airport in 18-30 to the west along the north coast.
No one imagined that so bad-dense buildings along the coast highway and just did not allow to get closer to the sea. Aggravating was the absence of pan-holder for gas cylinders – we really could lose our evening tea and morning coffee.
We rejected the proposition of  Seregiy to sleep directly near the windows of a beautiful home on the pavement, then we found camping.
Where we are – nobody knows. Something 110 km from Istanbul.
The camping is without hot water, but we can sleep near the sea. Not in vain. 30 euros for all. And there is a gas.

Sea of Marmara in this small place, unclear, but not cold.
In the distance –  thunders.
At night the storm approached. But sleep in this place surprisingly well.
In the morning  was rain, and loaded the cold.
Some time we have traveled between the cities. Found a gas burner and bought all the products. It was the rain bands.

Now the road became badly pavement. But no more big cities. Coast began to resemble the Italian Amalfi. We drove through the mountains Tekir Dagi. Cool rocks cascading down. For all time by way we really have seen  only one bay, suitable for camping. Often the road passes through the tiny villages scattered across picturesque hills. From the branches hang over the almonds and green figs.
Closer to the Dardanelles the Turks have placed much of their military power. Exclusion zones began to appear punctually.

The sky was still low and sullen. Frequent showers have convinced us of the need to stay in the camp.
A campsite was absent.
Here we have already passed city Gelibolu. Ferries depart to Asia.
A camping  is there.
Dardanelles became  narrow. A lot of barges and freighters. The opposite bank was very close.
It was at this point, we found a camping with a huge lawn, amonities and desks. 15 euros. Prices are falling. There are not a lot of  Tourists here.

Sergei, obviously bored of needlework, quickly fashioned a camp kitchen and dining room

An hour later, we have already tasted the most delicate Kuzu, and after another hour, looking at the dolphins and boats, sipped soup and boiled lamb neck. It was necessary to make vitamin gap.
And then again went soggy dreary rain.

Dardanelles – the island Gencheada
Dardanelles-Gokceada.
And the morning appeared  sun and became warmer.
We have eaten all neck and bulyon. It seems that we poisoned by amount of lamb.
Our way – to  Dardanelles.
Soon we moved into the National Park Miles (Tarihi Mili Parki). Witty. Miles – the abbreviated name of the Military. In 1915-1916  here were killed a huge numbers of Turkish and New Zealand (?) Soldiers. Here are all firing positions and settled memorials. They are several dozens. Between them are scattered military cemeteries. Also at least two dozens. All this is located in the picturesque hills covered with cypress and piniyas near the azure sea. We stopped just two times near the memoriasl. Well  when the monument looks
individual and the cemetery, too, with names. That  is in our country are mainly observed Tomb of the Unknown Soldier…

Swimming in the Mediterranean gave Vitye meeting with a hedgehog.
On the way back, we’ve been ripped a roadside fig, and each had eaten no less than a kilogram.
Then we boarded a ferry in Kabatepe and went to the island Gencheada.
The crossing took just over an hour. Ticket two ways costs 20 euros.
Island is  beautiful, mountainous, inhabited by colorful sheep and tiny towns scattered around the perimeter and center. The streets of towns and narrow curves. In small homes are retirees and they grow vegetables and flowers.

. The main tourists – visitors –serfers in the local bays.
We stopped at a completely deserted coast near Ayduncik. With cries of scattered sheep. These two days we just overeat lamb had a banal chiken-grilled with salads. And the delicious Turkish sweets.
Gekcheada – Troy.
Gokceada – Truva (Troja)

Slowly pick up the laggage in the morning. Drank coffee. Today is my birthday and Vitin also. Breakfast in our extremely diverse – porridge with cheese and jam, fried  beans, sweets, ayran ….
In the Gulf learnings to ride a kite-surfers. Cars from Romania and Bulgaria. Turks.
Already by two o’clock we left Gekcheadu, Dardanelles, Canakkale and getting closer to Troy. There were tourist buses, souvenir shops. It was hot.
In Troy, we thought to look only at the famous horse, but it was not there. Ticketing takes place before the entrance to the park. 7.5 euros per person. The famous horse is standing right near the entrance. He was smaller than I imagined. Next we walked among the ruins of the cultural layers of Troy 1 – Troy 9. Between 3000 g BC to 500 AD. Troy itself – the cultural layer of Troy 6 – stood on a hill with the remains of the walls and now can see a vast field in which Achilles defeated Hector.

Our future path ran between the endless olive grows in search of fish restaurants.
Finally dinner was eaten, and, thanks to the Turkish land development, found a vast unpopulated beach near the village of Dalyan.
Neshev catch at night  octopus. He put it  in a saucepan and cover with lid. Then he  brought the second and went to sleep.
Dalyan – Assos
Dalyan-Assos

The whole morning was spent in search of recipes for octopus. In Kiev flew sms. And yet  we understand that need to  clean it up, but not after boiling. And cook for a long time! Oil, lemon. Well.

And Porridge.
In the evening when we snuck a terrible bumpy road to the beach, we drove past endless ancient ruins.
Morning, the ruins have not disappeared.
Still among the olives were the remains of columns, and sheep were driven on what was the ancient walls. Everywhere could be seen the man-made hills covered with greenery. Their opening hours had not yet arrived.
Just a couple of miles we came to the spot Alexandria Troas. Well, the great can afford to call a spade everything and everyone.
This Alexandria was a great ancient city. A lot of ruins, but absolutely stunning remains of the largest baths – three magnificent arches and huge chunks of columns with buttresses that support them.

Road again pased between olives.
We even swam in a huge Bay. Water 21 oz.
Gradually, skirting the peninsula, we have looked into the temple of Apollo. It stretches between the hills. Riddle of the installation of columns remained unsolved. I suggested that the only right decision – an empirical comprehension of the world on garden plots.
And here we direct to the city- fortress of Assos . At the same time we were in Edramitsky Bay (Edremit Korfezi). In front of us, in good faith with a stick, the island of Lesbos (Lesvos). We can not go there. This is Greece.
Assos – a beautiful walled city with a templ to the goddess Athena on the tall cliff above the strait. Absolutely impregnable city. We go to the sanctuary through the narrow winding streets. The rise is very steep. The first thing you see – a mosque on the rock. Then there are ruins of fortress walls and of the temple. The view from the temple is simply magnificent!
Evening. We did not buy Kuzu….
Near the foot of the  mountain is port with numerous hotels and restaurants. The place is very beautiful. Nobody. The water is crystal clear. We sit down waterfront in the restaurant and take all for a little bit.
Still standing in the fort, we found private beach without a single person near a huge unfinished complex. Find there the road was difficult. We traveled at least an hour by Terrible roads, and when reached complex, found that travel down to the sea not possible! We need to return to the beach and there make a camp.

Assos – Erdek (Kapudagi Yarimadasi)

At night, came a big dog. Tried to it our food. Heh-heh!
Water – it is still the Mediterranean Sea, was already 25 degrees. At the end of the beach we found an amazingly beautiful motel. It is a pity that overnight was not in it. Here on the coast is strange situation. If the beach is a draw,  it is dirty and groomed. It turns out that it is better to spend the night in campgrounds.
We have a couple of times to swim and go north to the Marmara Sea. Particular hurry and it was  5 o’clock when we camped in a wonderful grove on the shore of the Gulf of the Sea of Marmara at the peninsula Kapudagi (Kapudagi Yarimdasi). Out of the car was unloaded 3 kg of tender meat (kuzu)  and an hour later we started a leisurely meal. The camping has a shower (!) With hot water (!) And sockets (!!!).
Kuzu was delicious.

Peninsula Kapudagi Island – Marmar
Kapudagi Yarimdasi – Marmar Adasi
At Night flying birds, rustling cats and dogs climbed. Stole a couple of slices of bread and tried to eat the cheese. Failed.
Water is clean and warm.
Splash, ate soup Kuzu and drove on. First, a little knock about cars. This has already become a tradition.
Incidentally, the ferry at Marble Island once a day. 45 lire.
Along the Sea Solid hotels and guesthouses. Blue sea. Well.
Figs and nuts everywhere.
On the ferry we had already pushed our car.

Arriving  in port  and bought huge shrimp (10 euros a kilo), and flounder.

Began to go round the island. First left. All the houses are decorated with marble slabs strewn everywhere, little enough sleep. Now we know  the secret of the name of the island. In general, the island is extremely picturesque, with bays, mass luxury villas, hotels and guesthouses. We are looking for a secluded place. And with a road to sea. .
The road soon ended.

In the reverse direction, we again crossed the floor of the island and have reached the dead end quay. Near the sea sit old grandmother in white head scarves and knit socks. Painting is very peaceful and calm.
We did not want to spend the nigh with them  and settled in an olive grove in a secluded bay. In addition to lack of bandwidth acceleration for our car, everything in this place was perfect. So, we ate 6 kg of food (2 kg prawns 1 kg  anchovy, 1kg flounder, 1 kg of roasted red pepper and 1,5 kg of salad with a fig tree, week-old ayran, bread, butter, vodka and beer) and went into the tent to admire the moon path in the sea. Victor still want sweet and I found him old, but perfectly edible wafers.

Leave the island Marble.
Istanbul.
Firstly, we are all grown fat.
Secondly, the whole night in our Bay of the Battle was heel – the fishermen beat the fish, making it 3-4 entering consecutive near our tents.
In the 10-30  we arrived at the port for take a ferry. We need  Tekirdag.

The next 30 minutes were very difficult for us ….
Suddenly it became clear that the ferry “Yoke.” And today the will no one  ferry with the cars from the island. Nowhere. Until tomorrow. Only late at night to Istanbul without a car. Ha ha ha! Ears refused to hear this. All the bleary-eyed look at the map and poked in the nearby mainland city. Oh! Clarification! Will ferry the machines on Bandirma. We need Tekirdag. From there, only 116 km to Istanbul. And from Bandirma-more than 450 km. However, we do not care. Just to catch the plane tomorrow.
No one spoke English. The figures were written on the hood of the car. Hope it appears and disappears.
Steel arrived more cars. It was a good sign!
In general, we got to Tekirdag.
On the ferry we have to  ask  five people help us with car – accumulator completely died.. The machine remained stubbornly silent, and wind up not going. We had two stops more – in Istanbul hotel  and in the airport.
Well, in general, almost all turned out.
Another surprise for us was with hotel –  Boris booked a hotel, rather hostels near the airport. This miracle was a student dormitory of the Institute of ceramics. Stylish design a building with small, almost prison rooms. They have left us two single rooms. So – with iron beds, ceiling and narrow. It was a terrible, terrible night – I’m always afraid of falling and kill myself. And someone after the evening soup was indigestion, and he climbed a vertical ladder through the night up and down …..
In short, all is well, the plane suffered an hour earlier, we knew nothing about it and to Turkey to travel well!