Madagascar
Wednesday. July 21
Kiev – Antananarivo
The ugly flight to Antananarivo. The plane full of tourists. Flew with a delay of half an hour. Free visa is issued at the border by only two people! They have several assistants who carefully check all the entry information recorded by all of us on pieces of paper. Awfully long time! Foreigners stupidly climb out of turn.
How long have searched our belongings. Alas. Ruslan and Laura have lost their luggage.
July 22. Thursday. Antananarivo-Andazib.
Night had settled in the hotel. Prior to this, been looking for bags, change money, paid for the car and boat.
The hotel is crammed with all the old tools, funeral sculptures, carved doors and posters of the decline of French colonialism. Walls, as expected, orange. All very entertaining.
The sun was shining and it was warm.
Visit Airport happy only to Ruslana and puzzled Laura. The air flashed a new name Lady  Homeless. We threw whatever we could to help Laura and went to Andazib (strictly on the east). By the way bought something in the supermarket. Local markets bursting with fruit and vegetables. Butchers  -  heated imagination. Looking at this abundance, we decided that die from hunger   is difficult.
At the entrance to the park, we ate hearty and delicious. Taste and smell of meat zebu haunt me now at night.
Began a light rain.
We stayed in a small hotel bungalo type. It is hard to call it luxury, especially if the house has no windows. Hot water was.
In Madagascar, as well as throughout the equatorial zone, sunlight disappears at 6 pm and again appears at 6 am. Sunrises and sunsets are laconic.
It was about seven in the evening.
In the rain and in pitch darkness, we waited for night guide to the reserve.
Guide took us just down the road. To go to  the jungle was completely pointless.
The first was a chameleon, small, hanging at a height of  6 feet , not impress. We do not believe that this is a chameleon.
Another was discovered green  tree frog  with suckers paws .
And then the guide began to show huge, to 30 cm in length, chameleons, sleeping on branches. Their eyes were closed, their tails twisted into rings, color-lethargic pale. I reached out to touch one and like  the handsome stone  he fell into the foliage. No stirring. Pretending to be dead. Acting is perfect!
The forest is gradually filled with sighs, and the clicking of wheezing. Guide said it lemurs. 13 flashlights scoured the trees. Useless. During the rain lemurs do not want to make night walks, and we trudged into our hotel.

July 23. Friday.
Andazib-Mahanoro.
In the morning we went again to the park. Guide very hurried us.
The first thing they showed to us, was a gecko on the tree. Describe it can not be right, maybe see it is also impossible. Let’s just say – the gecko, a small growth on the branch, with breathtaking precision follows the structure of this branch. The gecko’s eyes are visible only to people with strong  imagination. In general, the gecko being mythical and see it can either brain or jabbing by  finger-branch stir. Slava see gecko, suggesting that she had the presence of an additional volume near-cerebral sections.
Over the next track gambol lemurs, they crossed the road. It’s really hard to see them, we were lucky.
We went to look for Indri. In principle, it does not need to look. You just need to come to the park early. Indri, the largest lemur, sleeping all time on the same tree, and has a distinct habitat. Our  black and white giant was sleeping peacefully in the fork tall tree.
Lemurs have three types of voice signals – the danger, communication and love calls.
Quickly mastered the past, I started to grunt. And lemur stirred! He even looked down  withhis little eyes. Then he lazily began to brush up.
There was the place where we said goodbye to friends and went to the east coast to the city Mahanoro, where we had a boat.
The road wound between the hills and rice fields. Billowing gray clouds and the sun shone brightly. Toxic-green rice  and spotted zebu constantly evoked seizures of delight.
Before Mahanoro we went quite a long time. A couple of times broke down rain. Finally, the road went along the Canal de Pangalanes and the ocean. There were abandoned hotels and restaurants closed.
We ate in a small hotel near the ocean. Meals are prepared for a long time, strictly under the order. All very tasty and not expensive.
While waiting for food we went to the ocean. The waves swirled, breaking in the salt dust. On the shore were picturesquely scattered local boat pies. These boats are made from eucalyptus trees for two weeks. Just gouged. I do not know how long they are on purpose, but most of the boats had already been eaten by sea salt. They do not look  comfort and not all in our company would be able to sit in it.
In Manahoro we saw tourists. Four.
We stayed at the hotel. On the second floor were rooms with windows without glass and sectional convenience without doors straight into the bedroom. Bungalow on the ground floor were with hot water and served as a perfect illustration of the tale “The Three Little Pigs.” Construct were, of course, the negligence of a pig.
Nevertheless, we slept sweetly, and even took a shower. Behind the wall (….) Noisy ocean. Rain.
Before bedtime, we’ve been looking for our boat.. In the end, this was a huge wooden old boat, kind of a junk with a crew of three men and two engines!
We went to sleep in the hotel.

July 24. Saturday.
Mahanoro-
Canal de Pangalanes.
Early in the morning we arrived for pickup. Entire city arrived to look a circus (us). Until we all thirst – food and endless things, the people silently watched the process.
Finally we said good-bye (bye civilization!) to our driver and cars and hoisted our bodies on the boat. She  departed from the shore, and glided through the channel. The engine was almost silent. We sailed between the endless thickets of some fat duckweed and green balloons and bushes papyrus. Sometimes the eye delighted a huge fan palm. There were no Birds.  Slightly rain.. Overboard flowed unhurried life of the canal.

Boats here  as a vaporetto – go to the neighboring village. In the boats were sitting and lying Malagasies, surrounded by bales and boxes. On the roofs of infinite series were boxes with Cola. Large boats we have met  not frequently. But around constantly scurrying canoes with fishermen, children, or even whole families. In this case, the father, waving a paddle, carrying his darling children and luggage. Women who live on the canal wear
a straw hat with flowers. They are doing absolutely everything, walk, wash, sell, sailing in the pirogue. When they see us, the situation is always getting the same  – local residents opened their mouths, threw all their affairs, and accompanied us with views. Children waving their arms. Sometimes I have a creeping suspicion that the local telegraph informed about us and in the villages we already met by crowd of onlookers.
Where the soils were suitable for rice cultivation, farmers carefully made new fields. Multicolored patches of fenced earthen ramparts. Someone figure already assembled, someone is planting green beams, and someone harnessed humpback zebu, with his knees in water, plowed field. Where the rice is already mounted, the fields gleamed green trim.
What wa happening  look likes
-  farce
-  vagrants
- Popular science film about Aborigens of Madagascar.
Choice.
We stayed in the villages. Small houses made of thin twigs, moored  canoe, women washing on the shore, the crowd nose  from running kids. Sometimes we managed to find a market. In the market it was interesting Fish and shrimp sold in hands (do not specify the size of seafood). It was still possible to find the greens and tomatoes. Prices are low. In one village, we were offered soup, but before that we ate scrambled eggs and  stupidly refused to dinner. We just drank a delicious local coffee with donuts. In the same
village I discovered the phenomenon of telephone-type design watchtower from which one could establish a link with the world. Under construction was the turn  of Malagasies with a mobile phones, as in the old days before telephones. One spot for phone.
For eat -  we had to prepare ourselves. It was purchased Misgurnus and shrimp. All that Ivan threw in a pot with boiling vegetables. Aborigines were dying of laughter and refused to eat fish soup. Enough! We  ate the whole pot ourselves.  Ivan prepare all this on a small wood-burning stove directly on the ship.  Victor fried eggs and prepared coffee. Unfortunately, the life of the boiler was very short, after the soup he was destined to drown out  from Ksenya’s hands directly in the channel. A pity …
Our life is flowing slowly, as the Canal de Pangalanes. Sometimes the number of appearances raging ocean. We left our boat and enjoyed the luxury views.
Nights we had only two. One in a local hotel. To call this  hotel could only person with a great imagination. We settled all together under a canopy. While the local people helps us get a fried fish, we ran a swim in the canal. In the beginning was quite incomprehensible why the whole village came to watch us. Then the situation became clearer, the channel does not bathe, there are many crocodiles and can happen very different … but we have already emerged unharmed to the shore. We slept just under a canopy in sleeping bags and were
bitten by mosquitoes.

Second overnight was on the beach in tents. The moon shone like a beacon. Once again we had a dip in the canal, built a fire and drank rum and smoked a cigar, friendship and mutual understanding. At night, the inhabitants of all the tents regularly check the water level in the ocean, rumbling past led us to assume the worst.
In general, so we proceeded leisurely life in the channel among the cake, rice fields and thoughtful zebu. At the end of the third day we arrived in the glorious city Manadzhara. Sunset in the city was filled with pure African elegance – for the passage of our boat was a special examination of a small pontoon bridge. Then he was promptly inserted back very quickly. Strangely, none of us particularly not in a hurry to leave the fragile vessel. We were ready to continue the alloy. Alas.
For all the time we met no more than a dozen such boats as ours with the local population and at the end of the road and two small motorboats with a europeans (three people).

26. July. Monday.
Manandzhara. Those our last day on the boat.
So we got off the boat.
The extraordinary joy to see our drivers and our cars. Laurs luggage not found.. Slowly Laura became overgrown with sweaters, socks and other trifles, such as a cream for the legs needed in camp life. Gradually, by the end of the stay on the island, she would have to buy a big bag, or to select someone that …
While we ate and enjoyed life, it became dusk. Drivers refused to go to Ranofamana by dark road.
We stayed at the luxury hotel on the coast. Actually, there were beds, hot water and a beautiful view, as an addition to breakfast. Well, the ocean  in 100 meters. Along the coast were fishermen. Herded zebu. The sand was large and yellow. The sky  - in the stars. We went early to bed.

June 27. Tuesday.
Ranomafana.
Hot water.
South east coast of Madagascar in August  is rainy. We drove along a narrow road that wound and wound between the wooded hills. In the distance were bigger mountains. The sun shone from the horizon of the black rain moved up like sausage.
In a small town, our car stopped to wait for the others. The whole life of the village was held immediately. Women are fried in butter chicken pieces. Children ran and sold it. At the moment, all the children of this place tried to sell us a chicken. But it was in a very unobtrusive way. Just anyone with a dish of chicken came to our car.
I bought bananas. Piece. Immediately I was offered raw beryl, tourmalines, all kinds of quartz and amethyst.  All together for 4 euros. Later 2. Citizens were sitting beside hutch that it has sold, gossiped and curiously us to consider.
We drove on. The road slowly began to rake in the mountains. Began appear hotels and bungalows.
Upon entering the market of Ranomafana Tasya vomited from the road directly in the market. Local residents are completely unmoved.
We drove to the entrance to the park. There the crowd of guides and porters.
Entrance to the park with an overnight stay cost us dearly enough – 350000 ariariev or 130 euros. For  Malagasies the same entrance to the park would cost 4-5 euros. At all.
On the internal rules we should have 2 guides. They were found there in the literal sense, on the spot. These we paid for separately.
It was agreed , while we in the trekking  to buy food paid for guides.
After eating, we repack. For porters we gave only a tents and sleeping bags. They piled into two large military bags. Dishes left in the bag. On the market for 1,5 euro was bought 3 kg of tomatoes, another  - for 10 euros, a lot of cheese, onion, rice and bread for the guides. Meat we bought as alive two screaming chickens. 7 euros per pair. I had to run around and look for a large pot. Our guide found a pot  for rent. Well, okay.
When we returned to the entrance to the park, the weather began to deteriorate.
Ranomafana Reserve is located in moist tropical forests. This is a typical rainy forest, where there is always 100% humidity. Just in the rainy season, the rain never stops.
So. Started sprinkling rain.
Laura was given antirain blanket and she merged with the green forest.
We have entered the reserve. Rain intensified. The probability of finding a lemur has declined below zero. And they are something like 15 kinds! Still, we have shown two red spots high in the trees and reported that this are golden lemurs.
Trekking was about three hours across rugged terrain. It was the park. Rain. Tasya took off leeches, but no one particularly alert.
At the site of the campsite was a canopy, table, stone fireplace and were couple of places under the tent. Chickens were already plucked and puted into a pot. By the way, for their transfer was hired personal porter ….

We set up tents and dragged to the hearth.
And then it all started.
Tanya looked at the leg and found striding briskly leech. A couple has managed to suck. Tanya muffled cry, and began unstick bloodsuckers. Others began to spin in place, trying to back and back. There were a lot of Leeches All rushed into the tent  to dress.
It is difficult to say that our special costumes helped us very much. Leeches were too much. They were thin as needles. Starving in the wild forest. All through the night in a tent I’m frantically looking for leeches. And not in vain. Muffled cries in neighboring tents said that there is a struggle.
By morning the rain stopped.
We went down to the village.
Cost to stay in the forest even for a minute, both on my shoes just beginning to climb the crowds of leeches. About the toilet was terrible to think. It was like a horror film.
Three hours later we walked briskly through the woods up and down without stopping. Finally came to banana groves, houses and children.
Later, we are  in the thermal spring,  happy  loaded our bodies. And much more fun was the locals looking of us.

On the same day we went to the famous road R7 and reached the town Ambalavalo.
In The hotel, filled with French and British, we have agreed for a three-day trek to the Bobi peak (2654m) or Mount Imariva
Part of the food we have already been purchased. Guide promised to purchase the rest (meat, vegetables). At this point we have lost the initiative and were punished. The money just evaporated. We were fed very modestly, that would not say tersely. In this part of Madagascar,  and near the peak is Fadi on pork. We forgot about our pork sturgeon in vacuum-packed and left it in a basket with food. Before a campaign porters seized it, and I think,  pleased eaten.
So, having parted with a decent amount of money (for absolutely everything, as we sure by local guru, who even got to page Loneli planets) we went to sleep.
July 29. Thursday.
Ambalavalo.
Andringitra.
The next morning we rushed to the park to watch Anya lemurcats.
Landscape from the window  changed. Gone away moist forests, soft green hills. Gone  away wooden houses.
Around  - the extended dry high mountains with sparse vegetation. Along the road flashed homes from the red clay with thatched roofs and tiny windows without glass. No Rice fields .
Began to appear  huge round accumulations of stones. Landscape was strongly reminiscent of the previously seen images about Africa. Mountains represent a freestanding circular plateau with vertical reliefs. Similar like in Australia and South Africa.

Or large mesas.
Withered winter grass eat by zebu.
We drove to the park Anya. This is a private park. In principle, only in the private park almost always possible to be close to  the lemurs. In large reserves you need to look for lemurs. Park Anya  is 11 years. In it live three families of  lemurcats – lemurs with long striped tails. They live on the Madagascan fruit trees and do not run away.
In the morning we found them sunbathing. Lemurs picturesquely spread out on the trees, opening legs to the sun. Their white belly shining among the sparse foliage, and long tails hanging down. When we approached, they began to publish choral warning barking. Guide said that the lemurs sleep in a large cave. In the morning they always sunbathing, then eating and sleeping. Deceased brothers are buried.
Then we went back to the hotel, again miss our provisions, said goodbye to Laura and departed.
Andringitra Park has two entrances – the eastern and western, unique landscape, lemurs in the lower forests and the second largest mountain Madagascar – Boby Peak. By the way, she was subdued before the highest mountain. And the highest mountain located in the north of the island.
Entrance to the reserve long, by  bad road. Local residents suffer from a lack of all, including public transport. What they were doing and what they eat – is known only to God. We saw a small kitchen garden, paddy plots and constant zebu. The horse in this region do not survive, but nobody bring a donkey.
Before entering the park we got mark in the visitors’ book. Slavic names in the past few years have been found only like Poles.
Start began at 1550 m. It was hot. We walked up through the woods an hour and a half. Appeared camp – shelter with a fireplace and space for tents. Near the river. The height  1950 m. We are surrounded by stone ridge, like lying on his back foot and mouth disease. Some of the ridge consisted of a set of thick granite rectangles.
Night was falling.
First, it became cool, and then just very cold.
The bearers lit the fire, brought that something like a Hawaiian guitar, a bottle of rum and started singing with dancing. Immediately became warmer. We also decided to sing, but nothing joyful, except a pair of children’s songs in our folklore, we hadnot remembered. Dispersing sky above us all that was found in this hemisphere, the moon is disgusting light in my eyes.
T pot, we all had one dinner a little stretched. We’re desperate to get the second, when we receive the zebu meat with beans. Children are already asleep by that time. For dessert, a hot banana. Tasty.

July 30. Friday
Park Andringitra
Boby Peak
The night was cold.
Tent and the grass around covered with frost.
I got up at 5.00. The skies were still with the stars. At 6 began to turn on the lights. Breakfast was poor. It’s good that we have Camembert, yogurt and Pudding.
Exactly at 6.30 we left to climb. Hour of the road just went along the ridge, slowly approaching the aisle in the mountains. Then there is another parking lot. People are out of it already went on the climb. Near the river ran.
We walked slowly up. Whose  industrious hands have put the stony track almost to the top. So warm. Our caterpillars crawling and creeping up.  It was not difficult . Breathtaking mountains around us. Far away in the haze was submerged plateau with hills. The slope was covered with amazing plants. In the small waterfalls lived red flower with Velcro fibers. This flower gladly eats small insects. Huge bushes of hibiscus with dried brown roses, bright red bells, mosses and lichens.
Often come across various medical plants. The rocks around us became more and more bizarre. Bizarre Crab. Clouds began to swim at the bottom. We are not in a hurry to rise. Often made photo. Finally we have overcome to the last slope, and met with a group of Anglo French. They were extremely surprised to learn that we are from Ukraine. The name of the mountain, they knew only English – Boby Peak. The height of 2,654 m. cloudy and cold. Below us spreads Madagascar.
The rise took us almost four hours. Down to the parking lot we ran for  two hours, losing in altitude 600 meters.
Then it became clear that, of course, our porters, the cooks were waiting for us, but because of the uniqueness of the boiler, instead of tea and coffee prepared us beans. And thirsty!
We have a rest and went to the next camp.
Information about this part of the transition comes highly controversial – the transition qualified guides from 2 hours to very complex, long hours. We were somewhat surprised that we still need to go 15 kilometers and cross the ridge. It was 13-30. Discordant, we were pulled along the ridge. It must be admitted that people in our team have been extremely healthy. Another 15 km all made quite briskly
And we enjoy the landscape which locals called the moon. It was such a-mountain plateau with round stones and some sort of strange craters. From the west came a cloud, it highlights the rays of the setting sun. On the descent suddenly we see a lot of palm trees. All began to resemble the scenery or animation.
When we dragged ourself to the camp,  found their tent, already established by porters. It was nice. Height was – 1550 m and the night had to be clearly warmer.
Quickly swim in the river, we are attracted to the kitchen. Tea, Pudding, and we have looked more favorably on the possible delay in the meal.
Sunset underway. The birds were singing. It was cool. Porters again delayed the songs with dances. But today we just wanted to sleep.

July 31. Saturday.
Andringitra. Isalo.
Night  was warm.
But this morning we woke up in a huge cloud. All around there was drizzle. As long as we washed and picked, brightened.
We ate quickly, and the Anglo French could not understand the origin of Camembert on our table, and then we went to the eastern exit of the park.
The road was long. We went down to 500 m. The Morning views of the mountains made amateur photos to suffer. One time we saw a rainbow. It was clearly a semicircle, with its ends were just beside us.
The fog finally lifted. We went down to the village. The road was still cut down with huge steps. Somewhere at 1200 m appeared stiff little bushes with thick stems and tiny yellow flowers. Guide issued an unpronounceable name and said that it is a relative of baobab tree.
Below we went through the terraces with rice fields. Vintage meets three times a year. On the slopes of grazing zebu. The small village was filled with pigs and chickens. Fadi on pork over and colorful cheerful pig fun as puppies, rushed through the village. Houses were built of twigs and thin tree trunks and smeared with red earth. Thatched roofs. There no glass in windows. I noticed  only a tiny wooden shutters. Not more than two.
Immediately guide showed us a small hole in the ground – there lived a snake. Next to her lair ants laid a lot of different food – they fed the snake, so she put on weight and got stuck in the house. Then they all come and eat her.
In the center of the village we expect our machines and Laura. Altimeter showed 600 m
Tired and satisfied.

Another hour and a half car trotted over the ruts, and then we drove back to the R7.
After a while the mountains and hills have disappeared. We went on an absolutely smooth plateau. Somewhere on the horizon there were mountains. We were approaching to Isalo.This rose, we have ignored the offer of to stop at a roadside motel. Let even close to the park. In these places appeared Lodge and we wanted it. It was sunset. Mountains began to cast shadows and glow soft amber. Luxury lodge hidden in the rocks and was fully occupied. We fell into a slight depression – now live in the motel did not want. I remembered another pointer on the road to “the rock lodge”. Just to make sure that everything is booked we turned to the cliffs.
We have looked back several rectangular one-storey long buildings, merging with a mountain. Lodge was a new and completely, well, completely empty! Grandpa Italian glowed and danced with joy. Hotel manager, Frenchman Craig did not leave us a single step. Staff rushed to the hotel. But hotel represented the architectural masterpiece in the style of Frank Lloyd Wright – fully integrated into the landscape complex with flat roofs, huge windows and elegant internal design decoration. Restaurant with Italian arachnid
chandelier and a huge fireplace maw was still a large terrace for making coffee and full glass wall which opens onto the mountain range.
In the hall were comfortable sofas and chairs, were chess and backgammon.
Lunch was served at a certain time, was amazingly delicious, but without the right to choose dishes.
Rest  for body and soul!
By evening attracted our friends. They decided to check the quality of all roads in Madagascar and write about this new book.

July 1. Sunday.
Isalo.
After the leeches and we do  not want to go anyway.

Lodge has been extended for one more day. Hot shower, toilet, bathroom in front of the wall-glass … ..
Not too early in the morning we went to the park Isalo.
Initially, this was the canyon Maki – a long narrow passage in the rocks with the current stream and cool. Laura we  left to control the input.
Then we went to natural waters. The track ran past the tourist park. There were a dozens of

tents. Disgusting. The only positive aspect of such a lot – a lot of lively lemurs with stiff tails. They hover around the camp, picking bags. They can pat, scratch and carefully so as not to have seen by guide, to feed the biscuits. Lemurs are clutching small cold hand in hand and hilarious munching biscuits. They bite him for some reason holding strictly across.
This all lemurs noses treacherously crumbed.

By sunset we were taken to the window of Isalo – a difficult mountain formation, is strictly equivalent to “window”. Near piled fabulous rocky castles.
Dinner was held in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Italian sent us a bottle of beautiful white wine from his table. We politely took it.
July 2. Monday.
Isalo. Ifaty.
In the morning we again went to the west coast.
After a couple of kilometers on the road rose Ilakaka town from the stories by Jack London – quarry sapphires and accompanying infrastructure. Streets teem with businessmen, from hand to hand transmitted packets of stones, with suspicious shops with bars on the windows. In the shops people sitting with lamps and magnifiers. On the streets the girls of easy virtue with stones around their necks.  One of the shops we visited. Arab, to appear Ceylonese, dumped uncut sapphire the size of bean and looked expectantly at us. To the question, are there any stones faceting
he, wiping the table with his treasure, advised us to visit Ceylon.
We drove on.
In the city Toleara we had  two tasks – to eat and to book a boat to Anokao for a couple of days.
We ate nice. The city in general full of stylish restaurants and cafes. The streets were full with bright carts pulled by men.

It was decided to use Craig’s proposition – goto “Anakao Ocean Lodge.
So  we  telephoned to Lodge, and moved in Ifaty

2 km we drove about an hour. All around was bush, stretched along the ocean tidal mangroves, the beach is not caused wild enthusiasm.
Best Hotel Ifaty was fully occupied.
hotel “Nautilus” has a lot of empty seats, pool, stale owners – the French and the huge, meter size ammonite. There was  hot water,  no light and  lunch with dinner on the clock and menu. As it turned out later, the last item in the hotels usually do not discuss – eat what is given.
A cursory inspection of the coast immediately changed our plans about the length of stay in Ifaty – shallow, muddy and cold. One day – is enough.
Before dinner we had a cultural program – performance of  local beauties,  How are they so scared backyards – the eternal mystery.
The local bar was pleased an amazing variety of moonshine – tangerine, orange, vanilla, coffee, papaya and a minimum of 4 x species. Coffee, in principle, nice.

July 3. Tuesday.
Ifaty.
Breakfast is not impressed. Coffee, bread and honey. True, from baobabs.
We went diving. Nobody ask lisence..

Costumes – the old, torn, 2 mm. I barely pulled myself over the short three. As it turned out, it is not in vain. Reserve regulator – no.

Console only with a manometer.
An ancient zodiac with the unwashed and unshaven owner – the Frenchman took us over a reef. The Frenchman was dressed the same as the previous evening, in this he dived, and then in the same clothes I saw him at dinner.
When immersed in 20 minutes it became clear that Ivan manometer does not work.

. He still showed 200 atm. The Frenchman was mumbled something, took the stone from the bottom and banged on the gauge. Arrow jumped to 150. At the same time, we all breathed the air with the taste of butter. What depths we swam – unknown. On sensations, up to 30 meters. Visibility about 10 meters, beautiful landscapes.  Not a lot of fish One of Napoleon slipped, I found an octopus and Ivan saw the potato groupers. The water temperature all the time was 24,5. When we got out, blew
strong wind. After 48 minutes we were very cold and from the second dive refused.
At the same time, our friends traveled in a boat to the Mozambique Channel in search of whales. Whales are seen and are even close. Proceedings of the Giants – July and August.
On the same day we went to a small reserve, had seen there baobabs, turtles, iguanas. Shot down from the branch chameleon. It hurt bitten Laura. Have you seen crawling along the roads of snakes and living in the hollow of a cockroach who leaves in the sand many bicycle tracks. Guide showed us a lot more valuable trees.
The French all day play cards near a round table. Their 5 people .

Stay in Ifaty was quite expensive, and service not good.

July 4. Wednesday.
Ifaty. Anakao.
So we departured  to the port of Tulear. I found a cafe. Near the ocean was an upturned boat, near her desk. Women face was covered with clay, she poured boiling water in a canvas bag.  Then it poured into a bucket. This is – coffee. Very tasty!
Our loading  delayed.
A few minutes later it became clear what we expect full bus with Italian tourists arrived.
Finally, we are going to lodge.
Coast instantly changes –  near the high mountains  is a golden-white sand.
If you go to Anakao by car it  is 8 hours and by boat-less than an hour.

In the ocean, a lot of canoe. All pies with extra ocean float for stability, many with a sail. Sails square, different colors, sometimes all patchwork. We passed the town Anakao. thin handful  houses and a lot of boats on the shore. Picturesquely. Then there were tiny wooden colorful houses of  hotel.
Our lodge right on the beach. All in best traditions – round bungalows along the beach with air conditioning and glass, the lines of a local exotic, hot and cold water, personnel, found on the beach, the manager of fixed-yes, sir, yes, ma’am. As usual, the electricity a few hours in the evening and eating in time without menu. They gave delicious meal.

Thanks to the crisis and Craig, manager of “The rock lodge”  the price  came down to us per person to 90 euros. They say earlier facilities worth 500 euros a day ….
The water in the ocean is clean and clear. Not very warm. Paths lined with stones in a growing number of unthinkable beautiful trees.

Lodge is in a huge bay (think bay length km 6-7). With both sides still have small islands – Nosy Be and Nosy Satrana. They are uninhabited. It reserves. It can be reached by boat. There is a list of what can be done in Anakao. There is much, but still not cheap.
We went for a walk along the shore. None. Seashells washed ashore a huge number. Everyone is different. Much more.
At the end of the bay a wooden bar and an observation tower. I climbed up on it. To the horizon stretches Bush hills. And the other side the ocean. Villages are not visible. If they do, then tiny and hidden in the greenery.
Hotel manager Nicolas. The man who does not eat or drink all the time that it does. He looks a little crazy. For lunch and dinner, he personally carries drinks and help serve food, monitors settlement and entertaining guests, taking money and passports. He is everywhere. So I sent for him carefully where and what we want. By the numbers, dates and number of people. And yet we want every day somewhere. I – exactly)

July 5. Thursday.
Anakao
All through the night somewhere in the village band played and sang.
At 6 am left with Ivan and Gena on the canoe for fishing.
Ocean is quiet. Gone reef. Fishing rod with multiplier we have only one. There are two  our spinning, but they are feeble. Just went to another pie with the Italians, they are spinning and taken away. Italian owner of the hotel and its’ grants, of course, more.
Started trolley. Dawn is extraordinary beauty. Around the scurrying fishing boats.
Here’s a blow genes. And they started to unwind the cord. Alas, spinning for river fishing, Gena keeps first time in his hands  a rod. Buzz the whole hog, fish trolling interrupted and went away. Sorry!

Then another blow in ten minutes. All. Silence.
Two hours later we were brought to Nosy Be. The sand is white. The water is clean. Our boatman took us to the bushes, parted them, and there on the ground sits an enormous gray chubby chick gulls. Eyes seem like beads. And yelling bad voice. A little aside on the eggs sits a huge sea gull with a red beak. Under another bush we found a seagull with a red pen in a long tail. Also sitting on the eggs. Near chick the size of an adult gull. Above my head was spinning and screaming parents. Island – a bird sanctuary.
After lunch we went to the village. By the way, looked at the cemetery. There is something  common with the Catholic – tombs with crosses. But at the same number of stacked pots, bottles of rum and suitcases! Near the graves oars and scattered network – the male population of fishermen polls.
In Anakao we were surrounded by kids – let’s candy. No candy – give money. Time ends of the Canal de Pangalanes when local people just stared at us.
Around dirty. We went back to our lodge.
After lunch, Nicolas hardly remembered that we want to Nosy Be.
At 15.30 leaving to the island. Go – just 15 minutes.
The island is small. In the middle  a lot of prickly dry grass. In the middle of the island  is a small grove of trees. They were housed by dozens of herons. At least three species. They all sit on the tops of trees and curiously pulled in our part of the neck. When we got closer – almost all the herons took off. And the trees are strangely moving. Accustomed as they sit herons children – teenagers, long-legged ruffled, the size of a small chicken! Heron greatly excited and we went to the bank. In the coastal bushes were
fluffy obese parents-gulls.
Sunset we met on the boat.
Dinner served by candlelight. Nicolas personally resounded water and wine.
As it turned out, all the previous night in the village of the deceased’s funeral. Apparently, this is fun.
Probably because we were brought here by boat, do not leave feeling that we are on the island. And maybe all this from the fact that the hotel is in a very secluded area, near the town-village, and in fact represents two dozen small houses, and which runs past the trail consists of a sandy road in the bush. Between us, we reason that all the time saying “the island,” when going to the mainland. ”

July 6. Friday.
Anakao.
In the morning went to the dive. The local Diving center complete explicit equipment. There is

no suit with a hood. Even a single hood, just like that. Socks and no gloves. But it is already apparent whim ….
Behind us came a boat from Anakao from Gdańsk Diving center. Also a mystery. Instructor – dashing Franco-Iranian, the fat man with a mane, personally checked each availability and serviceability of equipment. In our boat there were three French women – one with an Indian bias of our age, and two very young. They all lived in the village. They said well, just a toilet Naturel.
We were taken to a reef and dumped. Visibility foul a maximum of 10 meters, underwater currents and wave. Just saw tuna, chasing for a trifle. Many nudibranches. The colors are very different. Have you seen even a transparent and moire. And one of varicose 15 sm. Beneath this stone sat a lot of lobster and stirred mustache. I found a big rock-fish. Muraena what is aggressive – grits his teeth. A lot of little things. Beautiful grottoes and awnings. By the end of the dive we met with great flock betfishey. Temperature of 22 and we were frozen.
Between dives, we were promised whales. There were none. The instructor said that the water for whales still warm. Will come later.
The second dive was also in open ocean, near the reef. Again, many nudibranches, beautiful long cave with lobsters and shrimps. Found something strange – a huge clam cone, wrapped in a mantle with a skirt. I should  at home find it in the literature.
Surf passed directly through the wave. Cool.
After dinner went to the ATV. We were 8, tours 9. Laura sits behind  the guide. The sandy road stretches in Bush. Flashed the cemetery, a pasture zebu and goats. Then what is the village. In the countryside smells bad toilet.
Then we drove up to a fishing village on the shores of the ocean. Here the sand dunes and a cloud of children. Next we’ll probably half-hour children’s rides along the edge of the ocean. I was all wet and in the sand. Children stared from all sides. Some parents  not allowed to ride with us. One mother was pulling her offspring just from my kvad. I watched as she ran to her son with a stick, and then anoint the baby on her back. Entertaining process. Returning, we had along the ocean, but due to high water drove again
by Bush.

By evening there was a mass die-offs. The men in our society mowed unknown ailments. My stomach rumbling.

July 7. Saturday.
Anakao.
At dawn we went fishing.
At 6.30 powerful bite at the Ivans bait. After 5 minutes he was exhausted and hooked gaff huge djackfish. 7kg.
Then we went further into the ocean. On the horizon a dash fountains – through the Mozambique Channel come whales. It seems they are four types. They proceed from July to November, but the peak is the month of August.
Our canoe came closer to  50 yards..

We fish a couple of hours. The sea was calm, without wind and waves. Glimpses of whales and dolphins. We didn’t catch something more.

This luxurious djackfish prepared for us for dinner in the form of sashimi, soup, and just like fried fish. It was delicious.
Beach rest in inaction nails. Everything began to unravel on the numbers and the bay. There was a complete torpor of the rest. Ocean splashing azure waves. There was a great laziness.
July 8. Sunday.
Anakao.
Morning always calm. Nothing stirs. By lunchtime, there are little lambs, a light breeze. By evening everything grows stronger as the night wind blows loungers.
This morning was again a complete calm and strong tide. We went to the diving.
Dived near Nosy Be. Visibility is good. The bottom is sandy with beautiful coral hills. Corals are flat and colorful lot nudibranches . When we’d come – walked beside whale. Next is about fifty meters. Beautifully wagged his tail and went deep. The second dive was near the reef. We swam themselves into the aisles and caves. Very nice.

.Torpor in Anakao reached the last stage. The children stopped talking altogether. Now they had used only words and one expression “No”, “Oui, “Gracias” and “das Is fantastish.”. Yes, and we have turned out very well express the full range of feelings with these words.
Accidentally discovered that the hotel Anakao still come to visit very meek and lonely places – Gena Oksana scared two women kissing on the beach …
After dinner we went to Nosy Satranu-tiny island not far from us. Why is Nicolas, he seemed more interesting than Nosy Be. I would like to see the wooden tomb sculptures with figures of zebu. Alas. And in this cemetery vaults rested on a network, suitcases and oars. Figures disappeared. On the island we have not found nesting gulls and herons. But in abundance were traces of cattle. Where did he come from and where there has disappeared – a big mystery. The sand was fine and mild. Shell almost was not.
At dinner, we beg meat zebu. Tasty.
Calculation devastated our financial reserves – two weeks before that we spent less than 5 days in Anakao.
For all its exclusiveness and beauty, “The Ocean Lodge” enough traditional hotel, albeit in a very unique place. It in no way be compared with “The Rock Lodge” in Isalo in Ranohiro. The latter, clearly, be an architectural gem in all respects.

August 9. Monday.
Anakao – Tulear-Finarantsoa
In the early morning speedboat took us to the port of Tulear. The ocean was quiet and calm. Probably all coast fishermen went out fishing, so many boats sail we have not seen even in the Mediterranean. Sails are different – the white of the sheets, with patches.
Our drivers have already met.
I still wanted to see the wooden tomb sculpture and we visited the museum at the University of Tulear. The museum was closed. At that reported that there are only pictures of sculptures.
We again went on the road P7.
Landscape became very quickly to change, lush greenery disappeared, there were hills, then mountains and savannah.
At one of the hills, I noticed the graves with wooden sculptures. We stopped and ran up. Indeed, a large rectangular tomb was built of rough stones. Above protruded long wooden bar. They were old. Thread hardly preserved, but every such sculpture was crowned the image or zebu, or birds, or groups of people. From below we heard screams – we called our driver. Locals came and made scandal. We had to get permission to visit the cemetery. Tanya managed to run to
another vault (do not even know how else to call this design). This tomb was made of concrete, whitewashed. Along the perimeter of flaunted different designs, including with what it is, whether the guerrillas, or the military. There were pictures of karate. By the way, I saw a couple of times sticking out of their graves, wooden sculptures, but we are in a hurry and could not stay longer.
No matter how you try, and the rate of displacement on average gets 50 miles per hour.
We drove from Isalo its marvelous landscapes, threw a farewell glance at our Lodge. In the city we probably first ate at this unsavory. A lot of tourists. The host institution Chinese. Disgusting.
To be on time for tomorrow famadiana, it was decided to go to Finarantsoa.
As we drove into town already in complete darkness. The first hotels were full. Tourists a lot Then we were all still stuck in what is a roadside hotel. There is hot water. And good.
Tomorrow leave as early as 6 am.

August 10. Tuesday.
Finarantsoa – Antrisab
Well, finally, and the muedzin came. Somewhere in the 5-15 am. Then the bells began to roar Catholic Cathedral. Here is the church in every town. Most of them are similar to the English church – a small one-nave building of dark brick with a bell tower over the entrance.
Again, there were rice fields. The road turns flashed. Lemurs in cars began to turn green.
We ate breakfast somewhere along the way – coffee and wonderful home-made yoghurt. Then we were under a mandatory program was brought to the shop with a scarf. We are not deceived hopes.
Time was pressing hard – in the city Antrisab was supposed to happen 13.00 famadiana ceremony. We were there solemnly invited by the way, there is also planned our encounter with the famous peaks and conquerors of the great cartographers …
Finally we arrived at Antrisab.
Central hotel in the city was maintained strictly in the spirit of the French Hotel de Ville. Nearby thermal springs have been rebuilt. All together, represent an ensemble of a spa-style “Baden – Baden.
Just started a mess who and where should go.
Famadiana ceremony  take place in a neighboring village.
Brief famadiana.
The ancient tribal ceremonies associated with the death of family members. Famadiana means change, . In this case, the place of burial. It takes only in the central southern Madagascar in the period May-September. The ceremony is to exhume the remains of the deceased, dances, dances, certain rituals and reburial of the remains in the same or another place.
Outsiders to the ceremony without a special permit are not allowed.
We were lucky, one of our drivers was from these places and arranged it for us.
In his car was now sitting Patricia, aunt of the above, or our official “permission”

We bought three bottles of rum, then the fourth, got an envelope with money. Dress arbitrary, photos and video are allowed.
We stopped to expect family members dead in the village center. No one can come to the venue before famadiana relatives.
Finally came two minibus. In one were two wooden coffin simple ones, I’d say, just two boxes with white bales – brought two members of the family, couple, extracted from the cemetery Antananaravu. He died in 2001, and she in 2008.
The entire procession drove away a little to the church (!), There was already waiting r the brass band (!).
What is happening in the future more like action movies of Kusturica. And the band played such music! Can Kusturica roots of these places?
Relatives deftly dragged the corpses and dancing followed the path up to the cemetery. Then he looked at a house where the deceased lived.His wife left while waiting on the track near the cornfield – it is not in a hurry. Then we came up with corpses in the graveyard. It was at this moment, we learned as we were lucky today, many bodies. Indeed, the musicians strained, some people danced, and swarmed around the gravediggers – people 10 uncovered a crypt, another group moved the gravestones, and that there are actively digging. Also, work was going on
to excavate two more graves. Rum had to give, when they lift gravestones.
At the tomb lay the head of the family, who died recently. His wife, the mother of the family, whole and unharmed, in full manicure and pedicure, as well as a hat, sitting under a tree. She was 96 years. Then she went to dance with their numerous children and their wives and husbands. Flashed pale-faces. Begun to exploit the secret of why we let him.
In the family of the deceased, great-grandfather was married to a white. To date, two brothers were married to European women. They also have girlfriends. In general, for all the closed events, if too joined the family of white, then we were allowed to look at it all.
Tomb opened.
For a long time rummaging around the grave. Finally, and it stirred. An elderly man jumped inside, made a short speech, splashed vodka inside. Then he removed the body from the grave. It was in a white shroud. All this is wrapped in a mat and carried to the crypt. Ivan wobbly gait, walked to one of the members handed rum.
We were at this time of stubbornly taught purely Malagasy dance.
Finally some of the other tombs of the body, too, moved to the vault.
The vibrant music while never ceased. People continued to dance.
Well from the Crypt dragged chapter families.
All the shrouds of corpses laid out on mats. All dressed in clean. Liberally sprinkled with rum and vodka.
I also sprinkles the corpses. Not terrible.
Fyodor  stood to one side and pinched himself, cannot wake up?
Laying of dead bodies we missed, maybe, very tired and wanted to eat. We said goodbye to the senior, handed him an envelope with money (in our opinion is very symbolic amount) and went to eat and pack our things.

At night  Ivan wasbitten by bedbugs.

August 11. Wednesday
Antpnanarivu.
View from our “Thermal” – wonderful. Most lawn, tall trees, spacious terraces. In the kit are flowers, carefully decorated with rubble rose quartz. Some of the quartz were instantly puted into bags.
After the traditional day we were taken in the direction of Thanes.
A couple of market and shops, the final disco and all.
It was good.